Using bumpstick - timing with pk32v
06-07-2016, 06:00 PM
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Using bumpstick - timing with pk32v
I'm going to ask some silly questions.
First, I need to lock flywheel to adjust timing?
Second, I'm showing 2° advance, cold, both sides. How do I loosen the cam bolt and washer. The correct procedure? (Do I counter hold washer and break free the cam bolt first?). I have the keys tightened on both sides. I think I'm going to need to go out and get a 30mm wrench...I have a feeling.
Thank you!
Kevin
First, I need to lock flywheel to adjust timing?
Second, I'm showing 2° advance, cold, both sides. How do I loosen the cam bolt and washer. The correct procedure? (Do I counter hold washer and break free the cam bolt first?). I have the keys tightened on both sides. I think I'm going to need to go out and get a 30mm wrench...I have a feeling.
Thank you!
Kevin
06-07-2016, 06:13 PM
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You need a PKbumpstick
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Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission?
George Layton March 2014
928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission?
George Layton March 2014928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
06-07-2016, 06:14 PM
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06-07-2016, 06:25 PM
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Do yourself a favour and get the bumpstick -it makes life so much easier for adjustments.
Your Timing is a little off all things being equal but that amount I doubt you would notice the difference.
You do not need to lock the flywheel to do the timing. Indeed it would hamper things.
Rgds
Fred
Your Timing is a little off all things being equal but that amount I doubt you would notice the difference.
You do not need to lock the flywheel to do the timing. Indeed it would hamper things.
Rgds
Fred
06-07-2016, 06:30 PM
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Well yes I have the bumpstick. But in manual it stated to remove hex cam bolt and hex washer. My question is do I first loosen the cam bolt - ie not turning/holding the hex washer behind it? Do I have to counter hold the hex 30mm washer to break free the cam bolt?
06-07-2016, 06:32 PM
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Yes.
Yes, with the PKBumpstick.
Yes, with the PKBumpstick.
06-07-2016, 06:41 PM
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I would think the two degrees advance wasnt going to be much, as I assumed last April when I did the timing belt, but after buttoning it all up it felt down on power.
My other option to troubleshoot was the cam knock sensor. I couldn't tell how it plugged back together...it could go back either way - one would be right, the other not so much. Would I foul the sensor plugging it back together in reverse?
My other option to troubleshoot was the cam knock sensor. I couldn't tell how it plugged back together...it could go back either way - one would be right, the other not so much. Would I foul the sensor plugging it back together in reverse?
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06-07-2016, 08:06 PM
#9
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its easy to hold and move with a nice big vice grip... thats just me.. but it does work well.
edit: didnt see you have a bump stick.
changing the cam timing 2 degrees will not be noticable. you might gain 1 or 2 hp if you are lucky and drop 2-3ftlbs of torque peak.
edit: didnt see you have a bump stick.
changing the cam timing 2 degrees will not be noticable. you might gain 1 or 2 hp if you are lucky and drop 2-3ftlbs of torque peak.
06-07-2016, 08:08 PM
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If you do not have the Hall trigger setup and working correctly then you will lose 6 degrees of advance and you will notice that on top end.
The S4 cams are not at all lumpy given they were specified for a broad torque range and thus timing a degree of two either way does not make a huge difference that one can feel by the seat of one's pants but as Ken has demonstrated in his posts start playing around with figures in the 10 degrees advance/retard range and you can clearly see a difference on the dyno that will be felt when driving.
When sing the bumps stick you lock the cam wheel into its current position with the three small screws and then counter hold the hex washer with the bump stick and undo the cam bolt. Insert the washer, the locking piece and the spacer, tighten back up and then loosen the three small screws. Then you can "bump" the cam timing in either direction. The bump stick makes it easy to hold the timing against the cam spring. I did it easy enough on my own but an extra pair of hands does not go amiss.
When the timing sits where you want it, insert the three screws again, remove the kit and fit back the hex washer and the set bolt [correctly torqued to 49 ft lbs [check that number]. you then turn the engine a couple of turns and check the timing sits where you set it at. If all looks fine I then crank it with the starter motor and check again. All's well- button it back up.
Not when turning the motor you should always turn it in the running direction and do not use the cam bolt to turn anything- use the bump stick on the big hex washer. To turn the motor over I a lways use the 27mm crank bolt.
The S4 cams are not at all lumpy given they were specified for a broad torque range and thus timing a degree of two either way does not make a huge difference that one can feel by the seat of one's pants but as Ken has demonstrated in his posts start playing around with figures in the 10 degrees advance/retard range and you can clearly see a difference on the dyno that will be felt when driving.
When sing the bumps stick you lock the cam wheel into its current position with the three small screws and then counter hold the hex washer with the bump stick and undo the cam bolt. Insert the washer, the locking piece and the spacer, tighten back up and then loosen the three small screws. Then you can "bump" the cam timing in either direction. The bump stick makes it easy to hold the timing against the cam spring. I did it easy enough on my own but an extra pair of hands does not go amiss.
When the timing sits where you want it, insert the three screws again, remove the kit and fit back the hex washer and the set bolt [correctly torqued to 49 ft lbs [check that number]. you then turn the engine a couple of turns and check the timing sits where you set it at. If all looks fine I then crank it with the starter motor and check again. All's well- button it back up.
Not when turning the motor you should always turn it in the running direction and do not use the cam bolt to turn anything- use the bump stick on the big hex washer. To turn the motor over I a lways use the 27mm crank bolt.