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s300s4 chips and 24# injectors wont run

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Old 06-01-2016, 08:30 AM
  #16  
M_E_C
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That's why I want to try swapping the chip back to stock with the bigger injectors. Eliminate one variable at a time. I figure if it runs better (but rich) then the bad chip scenario might be the culprit. If doesn't make a difference then it's likely something else. Worst case there's a problem with the injectors and I just revert back stock and the s300 EZ chip. I was happy with the performance. Just didn't want to waste the money I had spent on the new injectors without giving it a try. I have the car is supposed to run much more smoothly with the full package... Still hoping to get it to work.
Old 06-01-2016, 09:43 AM
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IMO you should be able to test with the 24's, it'll be pretty fat in open-loop but it should run. I would not run like this other than testing.
Old 06-01-2016, 01:25 PM
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If the injectors have been sitting for a long time they can stick - not often but does happen.
You may want to get a noid and check they are firing. We test before we ship.
If one is stuck a tap on the side can free them.
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Old 06-01-2016, 04:54 PM
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Best Practices for me with old-used injectors is to always test them with some fluid pressure (WD40) to make sure they work before the go on the car.
Old 06-01-2016, 05:03 PM
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My local injector guy doesn't want to clean them unless they are going to be installed within a few days - even after oiling.

I hit each injector with full 12 or 14 volts before installation. Sometimes ones from eBay required a few jolts to get them working.

Old 06-01-2016, 05:12 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by safulop
Well I am no mechanic but I do not believe that the 24# injectors can be used with stock chip. The chip is calibrated for the type of injector and they cannot be mismatched or all hell will break loose when the LH chip thinks it has 19# injectors to work with.
i installed 30lb injectors and made no changes to anything .. it started right up and ran rich... i was able to dial that out with reducing the fuel pressure down to 44psi.

If i can bolt on a 30lb injector and have no issues (vs prior 19psi) i would think that your issues with the 24s is something with the injectors or the chip

Originally Posted by PorKen
My local injector guy doesn't want to clean them unless they are going to be installed within a few days - even after oiling.

I hit each injector with full 12 or 14 volts before installation. Sometimes ones from eBay required a few jolts to get them working.

sounds like that can be the issue here
Old 06-01-2016, 07:27 PM
  #22  
M_E_C
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Tried the coding plug. No change. Put the stock chip back in. No change. Next is to put the stock injectors back in. I have something to do this evening so it will be tomorrow before I can do that. Hopefully it all runs well when its back the way it was. Maybe I'll find a place that can check the injectors and try again at a later time. I really would like the whole package.
Next time it will be easier.


P.s. could they have found a more awkward location for the computers.


pps. Wouldn't they get a 12v zap when you crank the engine or is it a much smaller voltage in normal operation?

Last edited by M_E_C; 06-01-2016 at 07:31 PM. Reason: added a note
Old 06-01-2016, 07:31 PM
  #23  
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You might try adjusting the CO thing CCW, too.
Old 06-01-2016, 11:15 PM
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Originally Posted by M_E_C
Tried the coding plug. No change. Put the stock chip back in. No change. Next is to put the stock injectors back in. I have something to do this evening so it will be tomorrow before I can do that. Hopefully it all runs well when its back the way it was. Maybe I'll find a place that can check the injectors and try again at a later time. I really would like the whole package.
Next time it will be easier.


P.s. could they have found a more awkward location for the computers.


pps. Wouldn't they get a 12v zap when you crank the engine or is it a much smaller voltage in normal operation?
This is starting to sound exactly like what happened to mine. Turned out that somehow the process of switching the LH chip killed my MAF, so it was never right again until the MAF was fixed. Why this should be, I have no idea.
Old 06-02-2016, 02:00 PM
  #25  
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Could there be anything else that got disrupted during the injector or chip install that would cause this behavior?
Check voltage from MAF?
Old 06-02-2016, 06:12 PM
  #26  
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When this happened to my car, an initial fix was to simply disconnect and reconnect the MAF. For some reason this jolted it back into performing sort of correctly, although it was still rich. It ran OK for several months until it finally gave out completely.
Old 06-02-2016, 11:28 PM
  #27  
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Let's discuss this for general info: is it even theoretically possible for a bad LH chip to kill the MAF? I thought the MAF was a sensor sending signals to the LH, not the other way around. Is there two-way communication that would give the possibility for that kind of destruction?
Old 06-03-2016, 12:28 AM
  #28  
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I took out the 24# injectors out. I checked them by zapping with 12v. Only 2 of the eight could be made to click when voltage was applied. No amount of tapping and zapping would make those 6 fire. So I checked the originals. They all fired fine. So I reinstalled them. Before firing it up I figured I would check the oil. I mean with all the evidence of extreme rich running I thought some fuel may have washed down the cylinder walls. Yes. The oil is badly contaminated. So I guess next I will drain the oil fill it and flush with some inexpensive oil before refilling with some mobil1.
Any advice on this?


Thanks
Old 06-03-2016, 12:41 AM
  #29  
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...run it, gas evaporates fast.

Happens.
Old 06-03-2016, 01:07 AM
  #30  
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There a brown color to it which I would think indicates some water contamination too. the oil smells of gas though. If it is water I don't know where that would come from. what oil contaminated with gas look like?


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