giddyupp

I now have most of the intake removed and found at least a couple of issues. see attached pics. Couple of questions for you guys.

1) Should there be this much oil in the TB ?

2) The two vacuum lines running to the front Fuel regulators have collapsed. The car seemed like it was running pretty good so what effect would this have on the engine ?

3) Can the electrical connectors be replaced/repaired

Thanks in advance for any and all suggestions.

Cheers

ltoolio

3 - yes...Check with Roger as I believe he has replacements.

Eplebnista

1) Should there be this much oil in the TB ?

All that oil in the intake manifolds has to go somewhere. Even a healthy 85-86 engine collects oil in the intake.

2) The two vacuum lines running to the front Fuel regulators have collapsed. The car seemed like it was running pretty good so what effect would this have on the engine ?

The two units at the front of the engine are not pressure regulators. They are dampeners that theoretically control pressure spikes in the the fuel rails. Heretics believe that they can be removed with no ill effects.

3) Can the electrical connectors be replaced/repaired

See above.

SMTCapeCod

Looks to me like that soup in the valley could be part oil and part coolant, some indications on the head as well?

Not sure what is orphaned off there in the front of the valley.

Two front regulators...as in plural? hm.

A lot of oil gets lofted into the intake. In the air guide the oil wouldn't raise too much concern among most of us...but the particles would!

Another consquence of the oil is that it gets past worn seals in the throttle body and kills newly replaced throttle position switches. There are one or two threads here on re-sealing the throttle body ie the rod that secures the throttle plate- uses the same bearings/seals as the 'flappy valve' on the S4. Good to do while you are there. And also getting the aftermarket replacement harness.

giddyupp

"Looks to me like that soup in the valley could be part oil and part coolant, some indications on the head as well?"

When I bought the car the heater valve was completely blown apart. Im assuming/hoping the water got into to the valley during that event. Whats also weird is that the Yellow vacuum hoses appear to be fairly new - like someone has already been in here before. Not really sure why the two going forward would have collapsed either.

ROG100

The reason the vacuum hose collapsed is that it is NOT vacuum hose.
I sell the CORRECT vacuum hose for $1 a foot and it will not collapse.

ROG100

Normal for oil to be in the TB.

I stock all the 2 way and 3 way Male & Female replacement connector kits - each contains the connector, pins and rubber boot.
I also stock the 6 way for the MAF.

giddyupp

Roger - I sent you an email earlier ordering the refresh kit. Can you also please include the 3 electrical connectors with the boots

Stuart

SMTCapeCod

Ah, that makes sense! WRT coolant. Some silicone hose has thicker walls and gets advertised as suitable for vacuum, similarly some plastic tubing. But yours is in an area that is persistently very hot, and in close enough quarters that interference and crushing isn't out of the question, either. It is impressive that the studs/standoffs for the air guide are all intact. THey do look compressed/disorted thought, so that's a decision point- leave them and replace air guide as is knowing they may break in not-too-distant future, or attempt R&R now, with the expctation that the halves will separate and you'll have a bit of aggravation getting the lower studs out.

As for splicing in a new MAF connector...thought of that would make me want to pitch the project out the window...fortunately I think I'm OK on that front at the moment.

Also, pay close attention to the vac line that goes behind the fuel cooler etc, it is likely that is the one that feeds the vacuum signal to the EZF computer. The red looks like heat-shrink, if it isn't airtight, then you are giving up some mojo via less vacuum advance.

giddyupp

I will check this out for sure. I have ordered the vacuum kit from Roger, so I am assuming there will be enough tube to replace that piece also.

giddyupp

Just dropped off all the intake pieces for powder coat. Have done a bunch of searching here for info on the correct color to match closely to factory original. I found Williams posting from 2010 and it seems "Feather Bronze" was really close. Does anyone know if this is still available and if so is there a product number ? Also is it still the consensus that this is the best match ?

giddyupp

[QUOTE=SMTCapeCod;13231775]It is impressive that the studs/standoffs for the air guide are all intact. THey do look compressed/disorted thought, so that's a decision point- leave them and replace air guide as is knowing they may break in not-too-distant future, or attempt R&R now, with the expctation that the halves will separate and you'll have a bit of aggravation getting the lower studs out.

I decided to bite the bullet and dive into these. Wasn't too bad, used a dremal to cut a slot into the flat top that was left behind. I was a little worried about cutting too deep but just went a little bit at at time. Once it was deep enough to hold the driver it turned out fairly easily. I have attached a few photos just for the record.