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Long ago used a trick to remove a pressed in bronze bearing in the end of a crankshaft. It was a guide for the input shaft on a transmission. I packed wheel bearing grease into the hole, and filled the space behind as much as possible, then found a round bar that fit snugly in the hole of the bushing - then just hammer it into the grease packed area - the hydraulic pressure forces the bushing out of the crank end.
Yepper - that method is often used to remove pilot bearings from the end of the crankshaft. Works great.
The steering rack gaitors can put up a fight to install new ones, but if you just turn steering fully to side you're working on, the inner tie rod end and stop forms a ramp up to the rack end. The gaitor just slides up with almost no effort and no need for lubrication, till end seats in groove in rack. It's magic!
Another great rubber lubricant *** adhesive is Aquanet hair spray. A quick spray and fit your hose, when it dries it doesn't slip. To remove insert a screwdriver between and spray its a lube again.
When we have to cut large hoses (3.0" for example), we like to use the bandsaw in the shop. But its still hard to get a straight edge. So we save round cardboard mailing tubes for this reason. Slide the rubber hose over the mailing tube and cut them together. The cardboard tube supports those hose from the inside while it is being cut, and a better-looking piece is the result.
I keep a small stick of grey modeling clay in my tool box - good for holding nuts in sockets or screws on the end of a screw driver until threads start
For those of us that like stainless fasteners, and need to get them into hard to reach places where only a fingertip will reach, I take a roll of masking tape, wrap it around your finger with the sticky side touching your finger, then twist the roll of tape and wrap it around with the sticky side out. Press the bolt head onto the tape and it will stay adhered to your finger tip until you can get it started. Just making a loop of tape, the tape usually falls off the end of your finger - it's the twist in the middle of the wrapping process that's the secret.
Another tip for bleeding hard to reach fluid nipples is to use a ratchet set designed for long bolts that has a hole through the center and the ratchet actually holds the outside of the socket. You can run a length of silicone hose through the center of the ratchet, attach it to the bleed screw, then open the bleed nipple with the ratchet and the fluid will run through the hose - when done, just flip the little ratchet switch and retighten the bleed nipple. Works great as a setup for bleeding the clutch on a 997 where you really can't see the bleed nipple up above the transmission.
I keep a small stick of grey modeling clay in my tool box - good for holding nuts in sockets or screws on the end of a screw driver until threads start
When locating fender flares on a car, its nice to hold them in place so you can step back and look at them critically before selecting the final position.
We like to use magnets to hold the fender flares in place. The neodymium magnets work best - strong as hell - I have gotten blood blisters when I am unlucky enough to have a little skin between them.
In the rear - the neodymium magnets will cling the fender flare to the body without issue.
In the front because of the aluminum fender, use two; one under the fender and one on top.
Here's the link, I had to buy a case to get it direct from them. Now I have a lifetime supply. You can find 10 ml blister packs on Ebay but the markup is ridiculous.
04-15-2016, 04:57 PM
Have you tried that?
