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Life Hacks - Mechanic's edition

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Old 04-14-2016, 08:04 PM
  #16  
Mongo
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C-clamp on the old brake pads is a good one for collapsing the caliper pistons for your replacement pads. Most of us know that one I am sure.
Old 04-14-2016, 08:16 PM
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Originally Posted by polecat702
The main ingredient in WD 40, is fish oil. You can eat it with no long term ill affects.
Don't try that at home.

http://wd40.com/files/pdf/msds-wd482671453.pdf
Old 04-14-2016, 08:18 PM
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Mongo
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Originally Posted by WD40 MSDS Sheet
Swallowing may cause gastrointestinal irritation, nausea,
vomiting and diarrhea.
I guess the marinade I am using is too spicy.
Old 04-14-2016, 08:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Mongo
You know that rash happened 11 years ago after a one nighter. Been long clear...
In the garage? Sticky lock?
"Skin Contact: Prolonged and/or repeated contact may produce mild irritation and defatting with possible dermatitis."
Old 04-14-2016, 11:06 PM
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fiatrn
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Default turkey baster

when changing brake pads, I use a turkey baster (well, I actually use a 600cc syring, but...) to remove some of the brake fluid from the master before pressing the pistons in.
Old 04-15-2016, 02:25 AM
  #21  
Rob Edwards
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The best rubber/seal/hose assembly lube I've seen is P-80 THIX. Water based, no silicone, no oils. Works great.

Old 04-15-2016, 07:27 AM
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beran earms
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When installing new spark plugs, I always slip on a 10 -12" pc. of black rubber tubing on the end of the plug, allows you to carefully lower the gapped plug into place and start it with minimal chance of a cross thread. screw it in pop of tubing then tighten properly. this works great on engines with headers in the way , but I use this method always now.
Old 04-15-2016, 07:31 AM
  #23  
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A leaking lipseal [where the lip has age hardened] can be brought back to serviceable life by boiling in a solution of old fashion washing powder [i.e. non detergent] solution for 10 minutes. The process softens the rubber quite nicely so that the seal face will seat correctly once more.

Did this on my Jaguar steering housing seal. Agents said the seal could not be replaced and a new housing was going to cost about $1k. Worked a treat.
Old 04-15-2016, 11:15 AM
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Carl Fausett
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The main ingredient in WD 40, is fish oil. You can eat it with no long term ill affects.
That is an urban myth. There is no fish oil in WD-40. Pure Petroleum distillates and harmful if swallowed.

I LOVE this thread! Many good ideas!

Last edited by Carl Fausett; 04-15-2016 at 05:09 PM.
Old 04-15-2016, 11:49 AM
  #25  
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Long ago used a trick to remove a pressed in bronze bearing in the end of a crankshaft. It was a guide for the input shaft on a transmission. I packed wheel bearing grease into the hole, and filled the space behind as much as possible, then found a round bar that fit snugly in the hole of the bushing - then just hammer it into the grease packed area - the hydraulic pressure forces the bushing out of the crank end.
Old 04-15-2016, 01:46 PM
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GlenL
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Originally Posted by Rob Edwards
The best rubber/seal/hose assembly lube I've seen is P-80 THIX. Water based, no silicone, no oils. Works great.
I use spit. Natures multi-purpose lubricant.
Old 04-15-2016, 01:51 PM
  #27  
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Fuel is not compressible, but there is slight elasticity of the lines.
Old 04-15-2016, 02:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Mongo
C-clamp on the old brake pads is a good one for collapsing the caliper pistons for your replacement pads. Most of us know that one I am sure.
why make it so hard.. just get a broad flat screwdriver and pry the pads back against the rotor while the calipers and pads are on the car. then, you remove calipers with pistons all the way compressed and the new pads go back on in a snap!
Old 04-15-2016, 02:24 PM
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wanna tune your car.. you dont need a Brake dyno.......you can run the car on jackstands in 4th gear and use the brakes to tune at the target RPM! WOT, apply some brakes find the desired RPM , check mixtures. done!
Old 04-15-2016, 02:26 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by beran earms
When installing new spark plugs, I always slip on a 10 -12" pc. of black rubber tubing on the end of the plug, allows you to carefully lower the gapped plug into place and start it with minimal chance of a cross thread. screw it in pop of tubing then tighten properly. this works great on engines with headers in the way , but I use this method always now.
one of my favorite ones...


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