traxtar928

Has anyone used IA to clean off contaminants and old wax from the original single-stage paint on a 928? I am going to protect what little paint I have left with CQuartz, a clear ceramic hydrophobic coating that lasts about 2 years per application. It requires all wax and contaminants to be removed prior to wiping it on. I just wanted to get feedback before attempting this.

Tomkat80222

That will remove what paint you have left. I have not used Ivory soap, but I have heard of many people using it to remove wax and other things. After you remove the wax, you will need to prepare the surface with a clay bar. Then depending on the condition of the paint, more work may be needed. If you are not familiar with detailing, I would do some research or find someone to help you. Autogeek is a good place to start.

Mongo

WD-40 strips wax if I remember correctly. Afterward, you can wash with your favorite car wash.

I believe denatured alcohol diluted 50/50 with water is also effective. You may want to search on the internet for that one to be sure.

GuardsTurbo

I would invest in a bottle of menzerna Top Inspection paint cleaner, between that and a good clay bar you will have best results.

Daniel5691

hi,
I have always used original DAWN hand dishwashing liquid for completely cleaning down to "bare paint", along with a clay bar and warm water. Squeeeeky clean !

hacker-pschorr

No it won't (unless there's something already drastically wrong with the finish).

I use 91% Isopropyl Alcohol mixed 50/50 with distilled water liberally when detailing cars to make sure the previous step's chemicals are fully removed. It's the best way to remove any oils or residue from previous jobs.
When I had a clear bra installed on my replica cobra Isopropyl Alcohol is all they used to make sure the paint was 100% clean of any oils / wax / sealant.


Don't take my word for it:

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siscogts

What guards turbo said.

worf928

What H-P said.

I've gotta bet that the active component of most 'paint cleaning' solutions is Isopropyl.

Citric acid based cleaners will also clean the paint, but they're harder to rinse off as evaporation does not work in their favor.

blazing928

Simple steps are;

wash car
use iron & tar removers
Clay Bar
either wipe down with wax & grease remover or IPA before polishing
correct paint with a polish
wash or clean off polish
wipe with IPA
apply sealant
enjoy!

The real shine comes from the polish, so take your time to get it right as the sealant will add some gloss but if the paint is not clean & scratch free they will show thru.

IPA will evapoate quicker & isn't as strong as wax & grease remover, which is why I use wax & grease in teh first instance. What you don't want to use is thinners- they will remove the paint
The correct way with W&G is to wipe on, scrub if you like, but you then need another microfibre to wipe it off, don't let it evaporate or the wax & grease will just be back on the paint.
You cant have the paint clean enough before applying the sealant.

Another must do is to clean the windows with a glass cleaner, like the Eastwood kit. The heavier sanding pads will remove scratches & then the felt pad will buff clear. Its hard work and the paste you make is very hard to get off, so best to plastic off the car to catch the spin off. The results are stunning.

I suggest you look at the Ammo NYC web site & you tube videos, very clear & concise.

I like the Gtechniq range of polishes. The P1 is water based & doesn't break down. As it dries , spritz with water to keep it cutting. With a foam waffle pad its almost impossible to over heat the paint, yet it cuts like crazy! I have a water spray bottle in the left hand & can easily spray as I go. The polish lasts for ages this way and in the end I wash the car to get rid of any splatter marks etc.
And the prices are OK compared to Oz!

hb253

P21S Total Auto Wash is a strong cleaner/degreaser.

Hugo

zirrah

Yeah but that is not going to remove old wax.

dr bob

I'm somewhat amused with the idea that Dawn sucks oils out of the paint, and IPA doesn't.

Full Disclosure: I spent more than a decade of my early career with P&G. I don't recommend that anyone use an intense solution of Dawn regularly on the paint. With the IPA, how to you get the solution to take off the wax and cleaners, stopping exactly at the boundary where the paint starts? Just curious.

IPA is really tough on natural rubber over time.

I use Dawn as a lubricant for clay bar on really dirty cars. Then car wash detergent to get all the Dawn off. Otherwise I use car wash detergent under the clay.

brad@tirerack.com

I too use the same mix in a spray bottle for between polish stages on my detail jobs. It does not hurt paint at all.

zirrah

It should be fine, but I haven't chimed in b/c I've never done it on single stage paint (no clearcoat).

hacker-pschorr

The whole point of using IPA is to pull everything out of the paint, including oils. That way you are working on 100% clean paint for whatever correction or protection that goes on next.

That's why IPA (or something similar) is used when applying a clear bra or vinyl wrap. You want the covering to go on bare paint.

You lost me here.

So is any kind of degreasing soap like dish-washing detergent. The difference is IPA is applied to a rag and only touches the finishes you want it to.
Washing a car with dish-washing detergent goes everywhere, not good for the rubber / plastic bits.

The "warning" against using dish-washing detergent is more targeted towards the "average Joe" who grabs whatever is under the sink for their regular car wash. This is a horrible idea since most do not follow it up with any kind of sealant.
Those who use dish-washing soap to "strip" the paint as a first step is OK......since the plan is usually to polish / wax afterwards. As others have pointed out, there are much better products on the market for this purpose that are better for the overall finish of the vehicle that also won't (or shouldn't) dry out the plastic rubber bits.