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Isopropyl Alcohol to clean paint

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Old 04-13-2016, 01:05 PM
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soontobered84
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I use Isopropyl alcohol to remove any kind of adhesive residue on paint and I've not had a problem.
Old 04-13-2016, 02:23 PM
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hb253
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Originally Posted by zirrah
Yeah but that is not going to remove old wax.
Oh, it certainly does.

Hugo
Old 04-13-2016, 02:42 PM
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Tomkat80222
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I was talking about full strength IP as OP asked about. I don't use dish soap either. I use Poorboy's car soap because it smells good and If I increase the concentration it seems to remove most all the waxes. I use http://www.autogeek.net/klashiggloss.html to seal my cars and have had good results. The finish lasts a long time and you get lots of applications from one bottle. Some complain about having a difficult time removing the excess, but that is because they have applied too much. Less is more and multiple applications is the best. Oh, and for the xenophobes it's made in Germany.
Old 04-13-2016, 03:10 PM
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Randy V
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If only there was a Rennlist forum dedicated to discussing car detailing, monitored by experts in the business.



cough, cough

https://rennlist.com/forums/concours-and-car-care-86/
Old 04-13-2016, 03:13 PM
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zirrah
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Originally Posted by hb253
Oh, it certainly does.

Hugo
Interesting. I thought that was their regular car wash, but it's clearly not. Cool.
Old 04-13-2016, 05:10 PM
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traxtar928
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My main concern was using 91% IPA on the single-stage paint. I will dilute to 50/50 IPA/H2O and start on the rocker panels or bottom of the bumper and see how it reacts... but I'm pretty sure it'll be alright.

IPA is pretty standard recommendation on most detailing forums I'm a part of, but nobody had experience with a 928, so I brought it up here. Thanks for the input everyone.
Old 04-13-2016, 07:34 PM
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hacker-pschorr
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Originally Posted by Tomkat80222
I was talking about full strength IP as OP asked about.
Straight out of the bottle still isn't going to hurt anything cured paint.

I have three spray bottles I use for de-greasing. One has straight ISP, another denatured rubbing alcohol, and the 3rd acetone. It's a lot cheaper to grab one of these than to constantly be spraying brake cleaner. If any of these harmed cured paint, all of my cars would be bare metal by now.

Originally Posted by traxtar928
I will dilute to 50/50 IPA/H2O
Use distilled water.
Old 04-13-2016, 07:42 PM
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I've used Klasse and it works well, but doesn't last very long. The CQuarts by carpro is a well-respected product in the industry, especially since Opti-Coat 2.0 is no longer available to consumers as a ceramic coating, and is now only available as a silica coating called Optimum Gloss Coat. Opti-Coat Pro is only available to licensed professionals now.
Old 04-13-2016, 07:49 PM
  #24  
brad@tirerack.com
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Originally Posted by Hacker-Pschorr
......... and the 3rd acetone.
Acetone? You are a brave man. The strongest I use is mineral spirits, which works great for removing tar. I have not ventured stronger than that.
Old 04-13-2016, 07:55 PM
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Mark Thornton
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I use "Prep sol wax and grease remover" , professional product bought at local auto body paint suppliers .. I have been doing paint and bodywork 55 yrs.. It is in my opinion the best way.
Old 04-13-2016, 08:05 PM
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Originally Posted by damon@tirerack.com
Acetone? You are a brave man. The strongest I use is mineral spirits, which works great for removing tar. I have not ventured stronger than that.
I don't use acetone for detailing, but I've gotten enough of it on paint over the years I'm not worried about it.
I've seen body shops use it to remove over-spray on finished panels without harming the "good" paint.

The chemicals in most brake cleaners are harsher, we went through a couple cases at a track event once cleaning off the front clip of a Corvette that was behind someone that puked their crankcase out the tailpipe.


A lot of good products have been mentioned that do the same thing (strip wax / oils) but when you detail as much as I do, it's impossible to beat the cost effectiveness of ISP. I'm willing to bet the key ingredient in the other products is alcohol anyway, with other stuff to make it look pretty and smell better.
Old 04-13-2016, 08:08 PM
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zirrah
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Originally Posted by traxtar928
I've used Klasse and it works well, but doesn't last very long. The CQuarts by carpro is a well-respected product in the industry, especially since Opti-Coat 2.0 is no longer available to consumers as a ceramic coating, and is now only available as a silica coating called Optimum Gloss Coat. Opti-Coat Pro is only available to licensed professionals now.
There's plenty of other coatings available that are just as good as opti-coat too though.
Old 04-13-2016, 08:18 PM
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Wisconsin Joe
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Reading through this (and it's an interesting discussion), I haven't seen mentioned one of the real advantages of IPA:

It evaporates quickly and completely, leaving nothing behind. None of the other cleaners do that.
Old 04-13-2016, 08:34 PM
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mark kibort
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i also like to use it to wash out my eyes when they look a little bloodshot. ...

dont do it!

i just use carnuba wax (Mequires) (a liquid in the red tall squeeze container) and it removes anythign you can imagine on the paint surface and doesnt do any harm
Old 04-13-2016, 09:36 PM
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worf928
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Originally Posted by hb253
P21S Total Auto Wash is a strong cleaner/degreaser.
Originally Posted by zirrah
Yeah but that is not going to remove old wax.
H311 yes it will. That is it's purpose. It's a citric acid-based cleaner. Even at 25:1 diluted with water it will take wax right off. Mixed 1:1 you can use it to clean engines. The only thing it doesn't work well on is 20 year-old cosmoline.

You may be thinking of run-of-the-mill P21 Auto Wash. A good auto wash product should remove the dirt not the wax.


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