Wheel studs and bolts
#1
Wheel studs and bolts
I took one of my wheels off yesterday and to inspect something and was surprised the bolts were made of aluminum or magnesium as they were so light. I did some research but couldn't really find a definitive answer to this, are you guys putting anything like anti seize on the threads? Seems like when torquing down the bolts there is a lot of resistance and feels like any more force will break something.
#2
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The bolts are steel. Its the lug nuts that are alloy. Torque them to spec and you should not have any problem. Occasionally you find one that is too tight and the hex part of the nut breaks off leaving the hemispherical part stuck at the bottom of the hole. Lots of threads here about how to deal with that.
#3
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You're asking about the nuts, right? They are indeed shockingly light. Not just from being made of a light alloy, but they're thin, too. Feels wrong to tighten them to the proper torque.
I'm curious about the alloy.
I'm curious about the alloy.
#7
Yes, and there are many ideas and opinions in that thread. I'm trying to get a more definitive response. I personally don't see using a very tiny bit of anti seize a bad idea to help smooth out the torque but I could be wrong.
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#8
Administrator - "Tyson"
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The torque specifications are for dry threads. Every mechanic I know never puts anti-size on the threads of lug bolts / nuts. Even at the race track where we are changing wheels 4-5 times per day, everything is dry - torqued to spec.
If you cannot easily hand tighten the allow lug nut to the point where the base meets the wheel, the threads are most likely damaged and it's time to replace that one. The purpose of anti-seize is not to overcome such friction. Take a wire brush and some solvent to clean up the stud while the wheel is off. Any small burr or piece of dirt will make the lug nut difficult to spin on.
These alloy nuts have been used for decades on Porsche's without any problems with proper care and maintenance.
If you cannot easily hand tighten the allow lug nut to the point where the base meets the wheel, the threads are most likely damaged and it's time to replace that one. The purpose of anti-seize is not to overcome such friction. Take a wire brush and some solvent to clean up the stud while the wheel is off. Any small burr or piece of dirt will make the lug nut difficult to spin on.
These alloy nuts have been used for decades on Porsche's without any problems with proper care and maintenance.
#9
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steel is usually a requirement for race cars, but the porsche nuts are pretty tough. if you have longer studs, they dont work either. I wouldnt worry about using antiseize or not. you dont really need it, unless the threads are jammed up. i use just a light coating of bearing grease, and then wipe it off. that's enough lubricant to help with corrosion resistance and the nuts getting stuck as they go through heat cycles at the track.
#11
steel is usually a requirement for race cars, but the porsche nuts are pretty tough. if you have longer studs, they dont work either. I wouldnt worry about using antiseize or not. you dont really need it, unless the threads are jammed up. i use just a light coating of bearing grease, and then wipe it off. that's enough lubricant to help with corrosion resistance and the nuts getting stuck as they go through heat cycles at the track.
#12
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#14
Under the Lift
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My studs and lug nuts are original and I've never had any issue spinning them on by hand and torquing to 95 ft lbs or removing them later. No anti-seize. Granted, conditions here in California don't promote much corrosion. Porsche did make some anti-seize recommendations for lug nuts.
Here's a discussion that will expose some confusion within Porsche's own guidelines and the varied ways some of our most knowledgeable members approach this.
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...lubricant.html
Here's a discussion that will expose some confusion within Porsche's own guidelines and the varied ways some of our most knowledgeable members approach this.
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...lubricant.html