Does this fuse panel look ok?
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Does this fuse panel look ok?
I was wondering if this fuse panel looks ok? Does it look altered to those who know considerably more than me? Copper bits look shiney. That's good!
Car is a Non sun roof '78 5-speed. What would those missing relays be for, and do I need them. car drives fine although I have not tried the cruise control
Car is a Non sun roof '78 5-speed. What would those missing relays be for, and do I need them. car drives fine although I have not tried the cruise control
#3
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
www.928gt.com
then click on fuse/relay charts, then 77-79
go through and check with what you have....
then click on fuse/relay charts, then 77-79
go through and check with what you have....
#4
Nordschleife Master
I'm not fully up to speed on the CE panels for the earlier cars, but in general:
There are open relay spots. That's normal.
There are 2 relay "bridges". That's also normal (I'll bet one is for the backup lights which takes a relay in the auto cars, but not the manual ones).
There's an open fuse slot. That's normal. Putting a fuse in a spot that's supposed to be unused can cause some 'funny' issues.
The only way to be sure is to check the chart.
It looks in pretty nice condition overall though. No apparent water damage.
There are open relay spots. That's normal.
There are 2 relay "bridges". That's also normal (I'll bet one is for the backup lights which takes a relay in the auto cars, but not the manual ones).
There's an open fuse slot. That's normal. Putting a fuse in a spot that's supposed to be unused can cause some 'funny' issues.
The only way to be sure is to check the chart.
It looks in pretty nice condition overall though. No apparent water damage.
#5
Those fuse holders look like they could use a good cleaning, to me. Especially, the lower contacts. I'd remove all fuses and relays and clean them with some sort of electrical contact clean solution and copper brush. I'd mark the relays, even though you have pictures.
Plus, very carefully...re-bend the upper contact of the fuse holder ever so slightly, so it applies a bit more pressure on the fuse. Road vibration, time and being pulled in and out can cause them to loosen up.
You can drop the panel down and clean all of the plug contacts on the back, too...if you are feeling ambitious.
Date code looks to be correct.
Brian.
Plus, very carefully...re-bend the upper contact of the fuse holder ever so slightly, so it applies a bit more pressure on the fuse. Road vibration, time and being pulled in and out can cause them to loosen up.
You can drop the panel down and clean all of the plug contacts on the back, too...if you are feeling ambitious.
Date code looks to be correct.
Brian.
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#8
Rennlist Member
Looks like you downloaded Alan's fuse and relay chart a few days ago, that should have answered most of your questions about relays. I agree with Jon, that panel looks very clean - upstate bob's advice about Deoxit and a spin or two would probably suffice to put/keep it in good working order.
#9
Rennlist Member
See this write up - http://members.rennlist.com/sharkski...04-Bzzzzzt.htm.
This is one of the first things I did on all of my sharks - very easy, and you learn the electrics pretty good. No more than an afternoon job. Make sure you pull down the correct relay chart for the car (per the link in Alex's post above), and always disconnect the battery ground strap at the rear before doing any work involving the electronics.
This is one of the first things I did on all of my sharks - very easy, and you learn the electrics pretty good. No more than an afternoon job. Make sure you pull down the correct relay chart for the car (per the link in Alex's post above), and always disconnect the battery ground strap at the rear before doing any work involving the electronics.
#10
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Thanks for all the help folks. I have some Deoxit D5 spray. I know there are several kinds of and different concentrations. Is the D5 good enough? or should I use the 100% solution. If the spray is good should I just spray the whole thing?
#11
Rennlist Member
I sprayed my D5 everywhere, front, back, female connectors. Let it dry, repeated, then applied Stabilant to the connectors per the wisdom of RL.
#12
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
IIRC, D5 is a cleaner, not a contact improver. (Reference Guide here, although I haven't reviewed)
I sprayed my D5 everywhere, front, back, female connectors. Let it dry, repeated, then applied Stabilant to the connectors per the wisdom of RL.
I sprayed my D5 everywhere, front, back, female connectors. Let it dry, repeated, then applied Stabilant to the connectors per the wisdom of RL.
Last edited by crushingday; 04-04-2016 at 02:30 AM.
#13
Rennlist Member
#14
Rennlist Member
A pic of the rear of the board would reveal signs of overloads, discoloured or burnt wire or connectors or previous non factory splices. Everything everybody said about cleaning and checking fuse holders! I killed two pump relays before I found a poor contact on the pump fuse - it actually sparked! The top fuse holder actually slides off a heavy copper blade and can be properly cleaned where the fuse sits.
jp 83 Euro S AT 56k
jp 83 Euro S AT 56k
#15
Rennlist Member
IIRC, D5 is a cleaner, not a contact improver. (Reference Guide here, although I haven't reviewed)
I sprayed my D5 everywhere, front, back, female connectors. Let it dry, repeated, then applied Stabilant to the connectors per the wisdom of RL.
I sprayed my D5 everywhere, front, back, female connectors. Let it dry, repeated, then applied Stabilant to the connectors per the wisdom of RL.