jim morehouse

I'm going to be changing out the drivers side upper a arm on my '88 this winter and likely tie rods as well. The WSM recommends using the VW267a tool to remove the balljoints and a "Nexus 168-1" for the track rods . I know you can use pickle forks and Wally's method of a large piece of metal behind w a hammer, but I'm reluctant to go bashing stuff around since I don't have any prior experience. So I'd like to get a tool that will do the job w a minimum of violence.

The vw267a and Nexus 168-1 from the WSM:




I found one place selling the vw267a but they wanted over $220 for it!! I have found two tools made by Stahlwille ( models 12623 and 12616)that are currently on ebay that might do the job. Anyone have any experience w these and can recommend one or the other?

Here's the one that looks like the vw267a:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=2436465198



And here's the other:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=2436466943



Also, any other recommendations or 'gotcha's' I ought to be aware of in removing the upper a arm? I understand getting at the nuts in the engine compartment is a chore...any hints or tools that would make it easier would be appreciated. Both are a bit pricey but maybe we could figure out some way to mail these around (w a deposit!) and share them since they're not needed very often.

Jim

GlenL

I got a real cheapy. Like $24 bucks delivered. I've done 4 or 5 ball joints with it. Works fine in that the boot and hardware is not damaged. One trick is to leave the nut on the stud to not damage the thread.

You can find complete information on the tool by searching the email archives.

BarryW

I used my air hammer with a pointed chisel to knoc out the lower balljoints and tie rod ends. I loosened the nuts a couple of turns, put the point in the nut on top of the stud and pulled the trigger. They popped right out. I'm not sure about the uppers but you could probably get in there to do them too. my chisel point is pretty short and I can get in some tight spots. Just my $.02.

Rez

GlenL,

What was the damage ($$$) on the ball joint replacement? I'm going to check tonight to see if I have aluminum.

GlenL

When I upgraded the balljoints it as something like $74 for the balljoint and $20 for the adjuster. You don't really need to change the shock bracket.

I thought that was the difference between a vacuum and a snowboard?

BarryW

I am now bagless. Life is good.

Incendier

Funny you should post about this - I had the same cardiac reaction when I was told to just whack the crap out of it. You just don't hit something like a 928.

Pickle fork and air hammer works well, if you're not going to reuse the joints/ends.

But if the ball joint tools you're looking at don't do the job (my experience is about 50/50 success), you may be inclined to try it and be astonished at how well it works.

The secret is to aim well and hit hard, once if possible, with a big hammer. Gentle tapping or small hammers don't cut it. My tie rod ends, changed this last weekend, fell out with two hits each. Don't forget to loosen the nuts but leave them on a couple turns to hold the joint when it lets go.

It's always hard to get the courage to do it, but it does work. fast and easy. Although undoubtedly not factory-authorized.

jim morehouse

Glen,
thanks. I did a search as you recommended and found this one for $13 at:
http://www.mytoolstore.com/toolaid/suspn02.html#61900
here's the pic:


Jim...interesting that you only had a 50% success rate w the recommended tool. Thanks for the alternative method..sounds a lot like what Wally suggested...that is to put as large a piece of metal as you can directly behind the piece and then hit the other side w a hammer.

I think I'll try the cheapy and see how it goes...not a big deal if it doesn't work since the car will be in winter storage then.

Hope to see many of you at the Frenzy!
Jim

GlenL

Jim,

I was going to do the search, but I have to work sometimes....

I got all of the studs loose that I tried with the tool. Some needed to be clamp ed hard and then hit. As I've messed up things with the pickle fork, this is much better.

For those who are wondering, the boot for the upper ball joints fits into a groove around the ball. It is really easy to get the fork started in the groove. A few good smacks and the aluminum is messed up good. Aaarrrgh.

GT Jackson

Whoa! Hold on! I thought you couldn't replace the ball joint in the A-arm and the whole assembly had to be replaced. Or is it MY dependant? I sure would like to change just the ball joint rather than the upper A which cost much bucks!!!

Eric G

I am also in the midst of dealing with the upper a-arm ball joint. Unfortunately, the upper is NOT replaceable if it is shot. Up until early MY 1986, you can get them refurbished by a company in Texas (Dynamic European Technologies is the name, I think) for $189. However, from 1986.5 and later, you need to replace the entire upper a-arm (approx $750 at 928 Spec - ouch!)

Fortunately for me, I only needed to replace a torn ball joint boot ($13.00) as the joint itself was in excellent condition.

As for the removal bit, I used the hammer routine without any problems. Yes, the pickle fork can bugger up the edge of the boot groove, so I would stay away from that method.

Bruce Sinclair

I too used the hammer method. It took one whack and the tapered stud popped right out