1982 running issues
#1
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1982 running issues
Ok, lots of details in my great white thread, but here is where I am at:
Timing spot on, engine runs perfectly at idle. Hook up the vacuum advance, it cuts right off. Remove and plug it, runs great again. I can floor it, with no issues, while in neutral.
Under load, if I give it a lot of throttle, the motor looses all power, just dies. Let off the gas and she is alive again, and I can slowly accelerate to a good speed, any hard pedal presses, she dies.
So, I'm looking for suggestions on what to look for on both problems
1) Why it dies with the vacuum advance is hooked up
2) why I lose all power when the pedal is really pushed, under load.
I have no clue to the vacuum advance, except that maybe the diaphragm has failed.
The power issue, I am thinking...
Ground strap? I cut back a little, and it looked ok, going to replace it
Fuel injector connectors? PO has broken all the clips. I have replacement connectors to install, need to cut and splice.
Fuel pump? Seems ok....
Fuel filter, has been replaced
Fuel strainer in tank? No throttle problems in neutral, could this be the prob?
Temp 2 connector? Clip broken off, doesn't seem tight. Going to replace
Any other ideas? Weird how it seems directly related to throttle, but how can I go full WOT at idle, in neutral, but unable to on the road?
Please help.
Thanks!
Timing spot on, engine runs perfectly at idle. Hook up the vacuum advance, it cuts right off. Remove and plug it, runs great again. I can floor it, with no issues, while in neutral.
Under load, if I give it a lot of throttle, the motor looses all power, just dies. Let off the gas and she is alive again, and I can slowly accelerate to a good speed, any hard pedal presses, she dies.
So, I'm looking for suggestions on what to look for on both problems
1) Why it dies with the vacuum advance is hooked up
2) why I lose all power when the pedal is really pushed, under load.
I have no clue to the vacuum advance, except that maybe the diaphragm has failed.
The power issue, I am thinking...
Ground strap? I cut back a little, and it looked ok, going to replace it
Fuel injector connectors? PO has broken all the clips. I have replacement connectors to install, need to cut and splice.
Fuel pump? Seems ok....
Fuel filter, has been replaced
Fuel strainer in tank? No throttle problems in neutral, could this be the prob?
Temp 2 connector? Clip broken off, doesn't seem tight. Going to replace
Any other ideas? Weird how it seems directly related to throttle, but how can I go full WOT at idle, in neutral, but unable to on the road?
Please help.
Thanks!
#2
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Oh, by the way, did you guys know if you leave a rag lying over the barn door, and crank your engine, it starts, the rag sucks into the throttle body, and the throttle cable clips break, not to mention makes the throttle go wide open?
Just wondering...as I know know this to be fact! 😕
Just wondering...as I know know this to be fact! 😕
#3
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Oh, by the way, did you guys know if you leave a rag lying over the barn door, and crank your engine, it starts, the rag sucks into the throttle body, and the throttle cable clips break, not to mention makes the throttle go wide open?
Just wondering...as I know know this to be fact! 😕
Just wondering...as I know know this to be fact! 😕
I know how hard you have worked at this...your ability to keep your sense of humour is really something special in my book.
keep diggin...
#4
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Thread Starter
Yea, thanks. While I was baffled as to what was happening, and pulling the spider out, it hit me. I was so surprised at my stupidity, that I forgot to take pics. Duh! I'm just glad nothing major broke.
Yea, I'm close so I'll just keep digging away at it. Once I get this running issue fixed, I can focus on the other needs of this car. Funny thing is, that #30 is in a million pieces, but still runs perfectly. Started her up after sitting for about 3 months, and she fired up on about the 5th try.
Yea, I'm close so I'll just keep digging away at it. Once I get this running issue fixed, I can focus on the other needs of this car. Funny thing is, that #30 is in a million pieces, but still runs perfectly. Started her up after sitting for about 3 months, and she fired up on about the 5th try.
#6
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Thread Starter
Green wire seems good. OP had rigged the connector on the fire wall end with some black putty, as it was broken. I removed the putty and what was left of the connector, insulated the connectors and sealed. Starts and runs. That's about all I can say about the green wire. It's not brown or crispy, like the one in #30 is.
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#8
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Thread Starter
I thought about that, but they are different. #30 has a single vacuum port, for advance, I believe, and the 82 has 1 for advance and 1 for retard....
Just got home from work..gonna dig in the parts bin and see if the distributor from the 84 fire car might happen to be lying in the bottom...
Just got home from work..gonna dig in the parts bin and see if the distributor from the 84 fire car might happen to be lying in the bottom...
#10
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Hi Ron,
Well even though I should be camping at Sebring, had to pass this year.
Have you checked the timing, and what it does when you hook up vacuum?
What we need is an old time Sun distributor machine!
Good luck
Dave
Well even though I should be camping at Sebring, had to pass this year.
Have you checked the timing, and what it does when you hook up vacuum?
What we need is an old time Sun distributor machine!
Good luck
Dave
#11
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Thread Starter
Hi Dave!
Yea, timing is dead on with specs. Hook up vacuum advance, car cuts off. If you start it back up, and give throttle, car surges to high rpm and back down several times, then cuts off. Disconnect VA and plug it, purrs like a kitten.
Yea, timing is dead on with specs. Hook up vacuum advance, car cuts off. If you start it back up, and give throttle, car surges to high rpm and back down several times, then cuts off. Disconnect VA and plug it, purrs like a kitten.
#12
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Ron,
Take the distributor apart, it would not be the first time a wire inside the distributor was shorting to the advance plate. Something is touching the advance plate as it rotates shorting out the trigger signal, possibly near the green wire connector.
You could monitor the signal with a scope, but a meter could be used as you apply vacuum from an external pump without the engine running. A bench inspection of the distributor will probably show the issue.
Dave
Dave
Take the distributor apart, it would not be the first time a wire inside the distributor was shorting to the advance plate. Something is touching the advance plate as it rotates shorting out the trigger signal, possibly near the green wire connector.
You could monitor the signal with a scope, but a meter could be used as you apply vacuum from an external pump without the engine running. A bench inspection of the distributor will probably show the issue.
Dave
Dave
#14
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Thread Starter
Thank you thank you.
I am jonesing to go pull it out and break it down. Might not get to until Saturday morning. Getting home way to late.
Anyone got a spare 1982 distributor they don't want?
I am jonesing to go pull it out and break it down. Might not get to until Saturday morning. Getting home way to late.
Anyone got a spare 1982 distributor they don't want?
#15
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Thread Starter
I got my distributor out, and did not get far taking it apart. Got the vacuum advance off. How do remove the reluctor and coil? I took the snap ring off, removed the center screw, but it just pulls up a little, and that's it. Took the side cover off, and the insides were all gummed up. Sprayed with cleaner, but that's it. Nothing seems broken or loose.
What now?
What now?