GuardsTurbo

I sent the certified check last Thursday, received title this Monday, and car finally arrived today. It cost me $9k shipped and seems like a solid car but still has a few things that are needed to be done. First thing is it's gonna need a new clutch as it stinks, shifter alignment is off and needs to be rebuilt, alternator will need to be looked at, brakes are new, and battery is new. The car came with a thick folder full of documentation/service from the day it was purchased in 1984. Most recent things done were brakes, oil, ECU was replaced, and new battery. AC works flawlessly as do all of the lights and switches, radio turns on and crackles but no sound. I drove it around alittle but today and now understand what the whole 928 craze is all about, the sound of the V8 and seating position make this car an amazing driver. Here are some pics.

Mrmerlin

nice looking car ,
make sure you put fuel lines on the top of your list if they are original

GuardsTurbo

Thanks again Stan for all of your help! I looked around a bit for fuel lines, but all I could come up with is lines for the 5.0. Any where specific I should be looking for the 4.7?

docmirror

Test procedure for your alternator. Requires a voltmeter.
1) Open hood, insert key in slot, open driver's window, insure all accessories are OFF(lights, HVAC, radio), close doors and wait for lights to go out.
2) Record voltage at jump post in front to ground.
3) Without opening door, reach in window and start the car, let it idle.
4) Wait for 3 minutes, record voltage.
5) Wait for engine to idle for 10 minutes with no acc on, record voltage again before cooling fan starts.
6) Get in and rev engine to 2000 RPM. Turn on lights, and blower to high.
7) Record voltage at jump post.

Step 4 voltage should be +.7 volts over value in step 2. (depending on age and cond of battery)
Step 5 voltage should be +.2 to +.5 volts over value in step 4.
Step 7 voltage should be withing +/- 1 volt of step 5.

These will give you a general idea of the condition of the alternator, and the ability to support load. If the readings are out of spec here, clean the jump post, and connector very well and repeat. the readings can be taken at the batt terminals and the readings will be similar. It's important that the readings are all taken from the same location, either jump post, or batt terminals.

GuardsTurbo

Thanks for that tip doc!!!

The Deputy

Nice looking, clean car.

Congratulations, on your new addition.

Brian.

hlee96

Beautiful car! What color is that? Looks baby blue but also gray in certain angles. Great find!

Sorry for the hijack, but Doc, in testing the alternator, do I keep the engine at 2000 on step 7 or just rev it above 2000 to ensure alternator is starting with lights and blower on?

Thanks

docmirror

No worries. You hold it at 2000 while taking the voltage measurement. This is testing the nearly full load ability of the alternator to supply current without voltage sagging.

It's best to test with a lot of stuff on, so add the wipers, and heated seats if you have them. We want the alternator to be really stressed during the full load test.

These cars are getting long in the tooth and all the connections are becoming resistive. Ground cleaning is a huge step in improving the voltage supply, as well as cleaning both large lugs on the left and right of the engine bay(if equipped). Also dis-assembly of the positive battery clamp and vigorous cleaning of those posts and terminals will help almost everything in the car as well as cleaning the post and terminal right on the alternator. Anywhere high current is developed, is a good place to clean with a wire brush and De-Ox-it.

Mark R.

Nice car. Congratulations, and welcome to the world of 928 ownership!

I sometimes miss my 84. I've always thought it was a good model year.
Final year of the non-interference engine. Lighter car, different handling...

Is the odometer currently working? (I noticed the trip odo is zeroed out).

GuardsTurbo

Thanks Mark!! Yes it works, I was just messing around with the buttons and zero'd it out.

Mark R.

Be careful doing that. That's often what gives it the final kiss of death...

Mark R.

I realize a trip odometer is basically worthless without the use of the reset feature. But do use it sparingly.

Pretty sure that's what breaks off one of the aged, brittle gear teeth, rendering both odometers inoperative.

GuardsTurbo

Thanks for the tip Mark

Wisconsin Joe

I was wondering about the trip odo too.

Glad to hear that the regular odo is still working.

It will stop. Unless the gear has been replaced at some point (you have a pretty thick pile there), the gear will basically fall to pieces. Roger has replacements and Dwayne's Garage has a very nice writeup on installing them.
Not a very big deal. It was one of the first tasks I accomplished on mine.

GuardsTurbo

I was actually thinking of tackling that job when I replace the dashboard. I'm currently trying to group any repairs needed, I want to tackle any mechanical jobs that come up first.