James Bailey

O MY !!!! awesome work there !

Wisconsin Joe

Well, that Flowmaster is pretty snazzy.

But it doesn't have the "Flappy Monitoring Flag" that the Salisbury plenum has.

I think James deserves some sort of award for thinking that gem up.

dr bob

Mark--

Buy a set of Hans or Carl's manifold flanges. Duplicate the port spacing and shape in plywood with a flat piece of styrofoam on it. Stop by Toyz-be-Us and grab a few of those foam swimming pool "noodles", in about the diameter you anticipate your runners will be. Square-section runners offer more cross-section area than round when stuffed into the same cube, but also have more friction surface per cross-section area too. Use an electric carving knife to shape your runners. The turn-down near the ports will be your chance to blend the square sections you've whittled down to the oval section that matches the port shape. Use welding rod through the middle of the noodles to help you hold the bends correct. When you have the arrangement you want, wrap each noodle with Saran Wrap, and then with CF and epoxy. Use UV-cure epoxy so you don't have to heat up your work. Build the plenum from styrofoam and PVC, wrap with saran wrap, and then with the same CF and epoxy. Once the runners and plenum are cured (very fast with UV), clear the foam and wires from the CF wrap, solvent for the styrofoam pieces. Hole saw bores through the CF (get a good saw and wear a mask!). Fit the runners to the real flanges, and into the plenum while everything is sitting mounted in your spare block and heads. Glue the pieces together with more CF and UV-set epoxy.

Don't forget the fittings you'll need for vacuum, a MAP sensor, the temp sensors, a throttle body, and any accessory pieces like the throttle linkage. Think about a slide-plate throttle rather than a butterfly, so there is absolutely nothing interfering with airflow.

Make it strong enough to survive a backfire or two.

James Bailey

Slide valve is too complicated to be simple or is that too simple to be complicated....

69gaugeman

I don't know. Almost EVERYONE?

Imo000

4500 is the middle of midrange. 3000-5000rpms is mid range in my book. If you want a manifold perform from 4500, that's not exactly top end. Isn't 5500-6500 the top end range where most engines live when power is needed on the track?
As for wanted mid range power, I don't know about you, but I would rather have a nice fat mid range than an engine that makes all the power near redline.

Ducman82

i plan on building my ITB set up with tunes velocity stacks fro around 4000-5500

Imo000

Ok but build it first and then report back with the actual cost.

Ducman82

Ya, won't be cheap. At all. And I expect that.

Daniel5691

Daniel5691

hacker-pschorr

This is one of the few areas I agree with Kibort.

We are talking about 5 liter V8's, not VTEC Honda 4-bangers from the 90's.

I've been present to a lot of dyno testing and tuning from every kind of intake manifold imaginable on Ford and Chevy V8's of similar displacement. No matter the combination the "mid range" power was fine (that's the nature of a 5+ liter V8) but the really fast cars had the intake that pulled hard all the way to red line.

Yea, I get it. Bumming around town getting groceries, it's fun to be able to roll into the throttle down low without downshifting and pull away hard. I get that... I have a 6 liter in my Denali with a stump pulling intake design - it does that well (but would be faster with an LS6 intake that makes more power upstairs).


With my 928's I want to go fast, period.....and if that means downshifting and running the snot out if it so be it. These are not fragile engines from the 40's that catastrophically explode if you rev them to 6k. With Todd's turbo spinning to 8,000 rpm (yes....8) with STOCK rod bearings pudding down the torque of 4 stock engines...I think we are all going to be fine regularly revving our cars to 6,500 or so.


For Christ sake this whole argument is ridiculous. The pursuit for "nothing but torque" stems from the drag racing world when everyone had a two speed power-glide automatic. So maybe the 3-speed auto crowd should be hammering home the stump pulling torque project, the rest of us.....why not build something that will actually make the car faster???


Torque makes the car faster? Then install this under the hood. 750ft-lbs:

http://www.cpomilwaukee.com/milwauke...50%20ft-lbs%2e


Why are we so afraid to run these cars hard?
The most damaging part of the internal combustion cycle is detonation which has the highest potential at peak torque (not horsepower). Constantly bogging the engine in the torque range versus the HP curve is far more likely to damage something.

simos

Start with some simple configuration like following and think of how to make it better. The plenum shape is not optimal to fill cylinders which are the most far from throttle plate, the tubing to plenum
should have smooth turns and finally where to place the air filtering. The intake used by Mark A. is still very well designed for racing purposes unless going for itbs.
Alpha N + Sharktuner is more than enough for race application.

http://image.hotrod.com/f/30210926+w..._bjg_block.jpg

GlenL

Where were the rails going when this crazy train left them?

Strosek Ultra

Tuned for 4500-5500 rpm 3rd harmonic means a intake duct total length of 17" to 21" measured from the opening of the air horn to the intake valve. This is pretty much, make sure you will find room under the hood.
Åke