87 S4 US Auto is almost ready for engine removal. Heater hose, fuel lines and some top-side items still to be detached, but all of the underneath items are removed and/or out of the way. 3 of the 4 bellhousing bolts removed; the 4th is loose and I’m confident of finishing that when I get back to it. Radiator out. All fluids drained.

This had been going so well until a few hours ago.

Then I discovered that there don’t appear to be lift points on the engine other than the triangle bracket in front center. I believe I’m looking for what is shown below as item 22 (PET illustration 103-00). This is part number 928.113.117.02 “Shackle for Transportation." They don't appear to be on my car.



As you can see below, there is no THERE there. Ugh.



Holding a mirror below the driver side cam cover shows a threaded hole and a short post, which I believe are used to attach the lift point on that side. (The mirror is within the yellow circle on left -- sorry for image quality.) The one on passenger side is missing too.




What are my options now for removing the engine? Can lift points be installed while the engine is still in the car?

Any suggestions really appreciated.

Thanks.

 

Yes they can be purchased from 928Intl and installed most easily from the bottom (but not that easily, especially if you don't have a helper.) You need one at the rear corner of the head on the driver's side and another at front corner of the head on the passenger side. You'll need to reach up and start the bolt by hand, much easier if you have someone holding it flush to the head on the locating pin from above. Pay attention when you get the brackets, they are directional and while the driver's side bracket will fit on the passenger side the passenger bracket doesn't fit on the driver's side (at least on my S3 that was the case.)

 

Dean,

I removed the driver's side lifting lug on my motor- not sure why but I seem to remember it was to help removal of the cam cover. Reminds me I must put it back on one of these days! Thus I can vouch that at least that one is "doable" in situ. Doubtless the crew at 928 international can sort out for you the necessary hardware.

As to the one on the front passenger side not sure why that one would be missing - presumably to get the engine in it had to be present at the time and was removed after engine fitment. Possibly to improve access to replace the Hall trigger [?].

Rgds

Fred

 

Very good. Thanks guys.

 

The one missing from the pass side front is a headscratcher. It holds the clamp for the front-of-engine harness, the Hall Sensor wiring support, etc.

They do come out to mak room for cam cover removal. On the right front, add in the Hall sensor replacement as another reason.

Getting them back on single-handed isn't tough from the top, but you will probably want to get a socket on it from below to do final tightening.

----

Was watching one of the car shows on Velocity recently, where they were installing an engine. They had a little square plate the same size as the carburetor base, with three eyes on top. With a link through one of the eyes and a ****** block, a cable from an overhead hoist is looped through. What caught my attention though is the fact that they lift the whole engine using the four studs in top of the intake where the carburetor normally sits. Four little 5/16" studs in tension only, in the aluminum intake manifold, 500+ lbs. And hands working underneath as it was being lowered into place.

 

Bob,

Those 4 little studs can probably handle some 12,000 pounds before they yield assuming high tensile bolts at 30k psi UTS. Not sure what the threads will hold though and would not like to try and find out if it was hanging over my head!

On lifting devices I like plenty of safety margin/redundancy.

Rgds

Fred

 

One of those bolts would probably hold the entire engine without an issue. Bolts.are stronger than people think they are. Have a closer look at the S4s lifting brackets, it looks flimsy as hell, held on by one bolt on each corner, the other ones are just studs and yet it's probably more than twice as strong as it need to be.

 

Ordered the parts this afternoon.

Thanks again for the help.

 

Ah, was going to say you can just screw some M8 bolts into the holes, and attach the lift chains/leveller to those.

Correct parts is always good tho (they bolt on using M8 bolts - something like M8x35 from memory)

 

Thanks Hilton. I wondered about that.

In my case, much of the fun is trying to make it a little more like original every chance I can. Or at least well-sorted if not always original.

This time that can be done without having to spend much, so I'm content to wait a bit.

 

There is a step in the FSWM that says "Unscrew bolts for clutch housing-engine housing top and bottom . . . and push transmission toward rear (approx. 5-6 mm)."

The bolts are out fine.

I've levered the flex plate a few mm back away from the flywheel, but I suspect that is not sufficient for what is required.

So how does one move the transmission? Am I using a pry bar or a jack? (. . . or bench pressing ) Everything I can think of to create sufficient leverage feels wrong.

As before, all help is much appreciated.

Not sure it is helpful to understanding the question, but here is the current state from underneath.

Passenger side (I'm aware the collar is loose and the parking brake is also unbolted--not worried about that here).



Driver side

 

BTW, thanks for the advice above.

Lift points arrived today.

 

I may have inadvertently buried my last question (Post #11) by double-posting.

Can anyone advise on how to shift the transmission rearward?

My current theory is to lift the trans slightly with a jack and wood block and then have someone work the flexplate end while I work the jack and transmission. That seems doable -- even for a newbie like me -- but still feels like more work than was implied by the task description in the FSWM and other threads.

Thanks.

 

I just crawled under the car, had the back of my head face the back of the engine (was looking towards the transmission) and pushed the torque converter housing back with both my feet. The transmission will stop moving when the torque converter bell housing hits the rear cross member or the floor of the car.

 

Thank you.