FredR

Just about to start some refurb work on the front suspension- principally to replace the lower joints and also the boots on the upper A arm.

the lower joint replacement looks straight forward- i have made some marks to tell me where to re-position the lower joint for approximate alignment purposes prior to a new alignment.

For the upper joint boot I was taking a look at this today and it seems a bit more complex than i expected given access. Seems the dust shield needs to be removed, just wondered what if anything, you chaps remove to do this job. Worst case would be to move the caliper and disc out of the way.

Thoughts/suggestions appreciated.

Rgds

Fred

The Deputy

Yes, removing the caliper and rotor are necessary. Also...DO NOT use a pickle fork on the upper ball joint removal...you will destroy the aluminum ring that holds the clip for the rubber boot in place. Just tap on the side of the spider/spindle right where the ball-joint stud goes through...after removing the nut of course...and the upper ball-joint and a-arm should just pop up.

Good luck,

Brian.

FredR

Brian,

Thanks for the input. not sure what you mean by a "pickle fork" - presumably one of those fork like tools that you drive into the joint to break it. I have a joint splitting tool wherein the fork would engage on the wheel carrier and the removal bolt pushes against the pivot bar that in turn pushes on the end of the stud to break the joint. I was planning to use this as I did on the track rod end joint assuming it will fit. Cannot see why that would damage the assembly- any thoughts?

Rgds

Fred

Tom in Austin

Upper BJs usually will pop out on their own or with a light rap on the side of the joint with your hammer. Pickle fork is a wedge that forces apart the arm from the spindle and usually destroys the old boot in the process.

jeff spahn

What they all said. Just take the nut off and if the upper ball joint doesn't pop off just give it a rap on the side of the place where the stud goes through. Boink and out it comes. Easy peasy.

FredR

Well, just started the work and the first port of call was the passenger side upper arm joint. Not sure what you chaps did that was so easy to get the joint to break but I found that I had to get the jack under the lower arm, push it up to compress the suspension a bit so that I could get the joint splitter in and with a bit of tension on the tool and a bonk of my rubber mallet the joint was apart- not too difficult really. I also removed the splash guards. I had to undo the bolt with a ring spanner so no access for a torque wrench that I can see but then I presume the lower arm joint is the more critical one.

Now the not so good [crap!]. With the upper arm free and the remants of the old boot removed I found that the joint moved suspiciously "freely". I could not detect any side to side play but sad to say there is vertical play which I presume means the joint is basically trashed. On the other hand if one of you bright boys can tell me that some vertical play is acceptable I will be very happy preposterous as that sounds to me.

Either way it will have to go back as it is with new boot unless I have a spare upper A arm in my late S4 spares bin.

Rgds

Fred

The Deputy

No vertical (in and out) movement is allowed. Time for replacement.

Brian.

FredR

What I feared!

Ironically for the lower ball joint I have brand new ones and the existing lower ones [apart from the boot] feel just fine. The difference was the lower ones had grease in them, the top one had dried out hence presumably why it has failed.

C'est la vie!

rgds

Fred

Blake Anderson

Believe it or not, a key feature of our grand human design has made it into the suspension of almost every automobile on the road today. Like the ball and socket joint that connects your leg bone to your hipbone, so goes the ball and socket joint (or joints) that holds the front suspension of your vehicle together. In the same way that your leg can move up and down, and side to side, the automotive ball joint enables the wheel and suspension to move together in the same manner.

Tom in Austin

Fred, strongly recommend rebuilt arms if you can get in there to get the bolts off. Takes care of the worn BJs and the new bushings will give you a noticeable increase in steering precision. It's subtle, but when you go over wavy pavement, you'll notice the steering is less affected than it used to be.

I would put this in the category of one of those things I wish I had done right when I first got the car ... up there with motor mounts in terms of restoring the driving feel back to what Porsche originally designed.

FredR

Tom,

I am feeling a bit of an *** at the moment. Our climate is quite harsh on things like boots and I should have known better than to leave this as long as I did. I did not spot the damage previously but then I wonder whether I was "looking hard enough".

The trouble with the A arm is that on the later models they are not designed to have the joint replaced albeit it is possible of course. However had I routinely changed out the boot and put some new grease in the wear would probably not have taken place. For sure the grease had dried out thus presumably the wear.

Irony is I have new lower joints but they seem fine- just need grease and a new boot. Given this activity can be done in about an hour and the boot kit is cheap enough i am kicking myself for not having done this pre-emptively.

Both sides are done now and I had to re-make the worn joint for the time being. The other side was OK- not brilliant but no axial play I could feel.

Big lesson here for those interested is to replace the boot and grease the upper joint on a routine basis- every 5 years or so?

Rgds

Fred