Low cost MINI-STARTER
#137
I just ordered one of these as well. I called them because there was nowhere on their web page or eBay listing to request or verify that the right angle adapter is included. When I mentioned it to the person who answered the phone (Chris), he knew exactly what I was talking about and said that he would include it in the shipment. No additional cost.
I don't know whether or not they normally include it, but if you're ordering one of these, it might be worth the extra few minutes to call them and request the right angle terminal adapter, just to be certain.
I don't know whether or not they normally include it, but if you're ordering one of these, it might be worth the extra few minutes to call them and request the right angle terminal adapter, just to be certain.
#138
I just installed the starter. Left in its original configuration as it comes from the vendor, it conflicts with the slave cylinder hose bracket that is attached to the oil pan. You could bend it out of the way, remove it, and finagle the hydraulic line to fit. Maybe. But I went a different route.
First, I reclocked it as described in this thread. It's very easy to do. All you have to keep in mind is that the bolts stay in the same holes that they start in on the mounting ring. Just rotate the starter 180 degrees under the ring.
Next, I used Greg Brown's slave cylinder flexible line. That is a must have. It makes things so much easier.
Then, I cut off the small ring terminal that triggers the start solenoid and crimped on a heat shrink shielded blade connector. I put a matching connector on the wire that come with the starter. When I connected them, I wrapped the connection in self sealing waterproof electrical tape.
Finally, I did use the right angle adapter that came with the starter (on request, not by default). You really need this. The starter's stud isn't long enough to fit both connections on it. The right angle adapter has a much longer stud.
The starter clears my aftermarket aluminum underbody panel, no problem.
It no longer sounds like the Porsche that I'm used to when it starts, but it starts much faster now. I'm very pleased with the starter and highly recommend it.
First, I reclocked it as described in this thread. It's very easy to do. All you have to keep in mind is that the bolts stay in the same holes that they start in on the mounting ring. Just rotate the starter 180 degrees under the ring.
Next, I used Greg Brown's slave cylinder flexible line. That is a must have. It makes things so much easier.
Then, I cut off the small ring terminal that triggers the start solenoid and crimped on a heat shrink shielded blade connector. I put a matching connector on the wire that come with the starter. When I connected them, I wrapped the connection in self sealing waterproof electrical tape.
Finally, I did use the right angle adapter that came with the starter (on request, not by default). You really need this. The starter's stud isn't long enough to fit both connections on it. The right angle adapter has a much longer stud.
The starter clears my aftermarket aluminum underbody panel, no problem.
It no longer sounds like the Porsche that I'm used to when it starts, but it starts much faster now. I'm very pleased with the starter and highly recommend it.
#140
Thread Starter
Rennlist Member
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 2,248
Likes: 504
From: Mostly in my workshop located in Sweden.
I have an email into IMI, but I am concerned about wire connections to this beautiful item. My 84 does indeed have three wires to connect to the starter. Is there a third terminal on this starter? Maybe under the blue cover? Can I wire it in some other way to make it work for my car? My third wire goes to my coil and resistor circuit, and somewhere Greg Brown mentioned attaching this to the starter switch terminal with a diode. Any help appreciated before I order.
Thanks,
Dave
Thanks,
Dave
"NOTE: Porsche 928 have an extra wire coming off the old starter. This is for cold start. When installing the solenoid switch plug, you will connect the cold start wire to the same solenoid plug wire."
Åke
#141
Thread Starter
Rennlist Member
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 2,248
Likes: 504
From: Mostly in my workshop located in Sweden.
Since last summer I have had one of these low cost mini starters on the red car for testing. I had some issues when installing the starter. The bolt holes did not line up perfectly so I had to put up the starter in the mill in order to adjust the bolt holes. Second the cable connection was located right up against the oil pan wich I addressed by shortening the terminal bolt and installing a right angle copper terminal of own fabrication. One drawback is that the starter is hanging out on the side of the engine, it is working good and is turning the engine at least as rapidly as the OEM Bosch starter.
However I wanted to have the starter tucked up under the engine which I managed to do but it was a very tight fit especially as I had installed a 10mm pan spacer.
I oriented the starter 180 degrees to get it under the engine but it did interfere with the oil pan. Lengthen the bolt holes in order to be able to orient the starter slightly differently helped. Both the starter and the oil pan had to be modified, material had to be removed for clearance. The head of the top bolt had to be turned down to 14 mm. The terminal bolt had to be relocated (pictures).
Åke
However I wanted to have the starter tucked up under the engine which I managed to do but it was a very tight fit especially as I had installed a 10mm pan spacer.
I oriented the starter 180 degrees to get it under the engine but it did interfere with the oil pan. Lengthen the bolt holes in order to be able to orient the starter slightly differently helped. Both the starter and the oil pan had to be modified, material had to be removed for clearance. The head of the top bolt had to be turned down to 14 mm. The terminal bolt had to be relocated (pictures).
Åke
#143
I ordered a starter from IMI. What I ordered was the IMI-101-928. Makes sense right?
What I got was the IMI-101-MR. This is a "Mazda Rotary".
Was told over the phone it is the correct rotation. And that it is an 11 tooth vs the 9 and that is the Hi Torque 'niche'...
What I did not get. The 90 degree post or the "pigtail" for the wiring connection.
Not sure really what to say about it. When a company makes 'niche' products, but the customer has to sort it out.
To their credit Hi Torque, is sending me both the 90 as well as the pigtail, but I still am left wondering? Is my starter the correct rotation? Is my starter going to line up to the flywheel? Did they listen to the last 100+ orders from Roger to clock the starter to the 928? Why in the **** am I receiving a starter that is for a mazda rotary that I ordered specifically for a 928. Kind of sucks but that is what you have to deal with when you go custom. I've somewhat learned my lesson to stay stock...
What I got was the IMI-101-MR. This is a "Mazda Rotary".
Was told over the phone it is the correct rotation. And that it is an 11 tooth vs the 9 and that is the Hi Torque 'niche'...
What I did not get. The 90 degree post or the "pigtail" for the wiring connection.
Not sure really what to say about it. When a company makes 'niche' products, but the customer has to sort it out.
To their credit Hi Torque, is sending me both the 90 as well as the pigtail, but I still am left wondering? Is my starter the correct rotation? Is my starter going to line up to the flywheel? Did they listen to the last 100+ orders from Roger to clock the starter to the 928? Why in the **** am I receiving a starter that is for a mazda rotary that I ordered specifically for a 928. Kind of sucks but that is what you have to deal with when you go custom. I've somewhat learned my lesson to stay stock...
#144
I ordered a starter from IMI. What I ordered was the IMI-101-928. Makes sense right?
What I got was the IMI-101-MR. This is a "Mazda Rotary".
Was told over the phone it is the correct rotation. And that it is an 11 tooth vs the 9 and that is the Hi Torque 'niche'...
What I did not get. The 90 degree post or the "pigtail" for the wiring connection.
Not sure really what to say about it. When a company makes 'niche' products, but the customer has to sort it out.
To their credit Hi Torque, is sending me both the 90 as well as the pigtail, but I still am left wondering? Is my starter the correct rotation? Is my starter going to line up to the flywheel? Did they listen to the last 100+ orders from Roger to clock the starter to the 928? Why in the **** am I receiving a starter that is for a mazda rotary that I ordered specifically for a 928. Kind of sucks but that is what you have to deal with when you go custom. I've somewhat learned my lesson to stay stock...
What I got was the IMI-101-MR. This is a "Mazda Rotary".
Was told over the phone it is the correct rotation. And that it is an 11 tooth vs the 9 and that is the Hi Torque 'niche'...
What I did not get. The 90 degree post or the "pigtail" for the wiring connection.
Not sure really what to say about it. When a company makes 'niche' products, but the customer has to sort it out.
To their credit Hi Torque, is sending me both the 90 as well as the pigtail, but I still am left wondering? Is my starter the correct rotation? Is my starter going to line up to the flywheel? Did they listen to the last 100+ orders from Roger to clock the starter to the 928? Why in the **** am I receiving a starter that is for a mazda rotary that I ordered specifically for a 928. Kind of sucks but that is what you have to deal with when you go custom. I've somewhat learned my lesson to stay stock...
#145
I did contact IMI, the reasoning didn't make sense to me. I am only making an assumption that
1. They were out of 928 stamped rings
Or
2. The MR listed Mazda rotary was the same starter and in stock.
Was also told tge MR starter is a clockwise rotation starter. I have not installed it yet. I didn't receive the 90 degree post or the pigtail until I asked for them. IMI acted in disbelief that they were not sent with the starter.
They did send everything to me super fast and all seems well built.
I have the 3 wire setup so from what I am reading above, I just need to splice my 2 small leads to the pigtail, solder, heat shrink and done.
1. They were out of 928 stamped rings
Or
2. The MR listed Mazda rotary was the same starter and in stock.
Was also told tge MR starter is a clockwise rotation starter. I have not installed it yet. I didn't receive the 90 degree post or the pigtail until I asked for them. IMI acted in disbelief that they were not sent with the starter.
They did send everything to me super fast and all seems well built.
I have the 3 wire setup so from what I am reading above, I just need to splice my 2 small leads to the pigtail, solder, heat shrink and done.
#146
Postive terminal insulator
Question for those who may have a good resource. I am looking for a good insulator for the positive terminal on the starter. I just installed one of these in my GTS and I would like to put an insulator over the main bolt and two terminals. What suggestions do folks have?
#147
Thread Starter
Rennlist Member
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 2,248
Likes: 504
From: Mostly in my workshop located in Sweden.
I relocated the positive terminal which can be seen in the picture. Easy to do, just drill another hole in the starter housing. The excess length of the terminal bolt was cut off. For insulation I used a rubber terminal cover of proper size.
Åke
Åke