johnu

I have the large rear bolt part way out. It spins pretty freely but will not come out. Can't tap it out from the front due to access.
Ideas?
Thanks
John

JWise

I opened a big crescent wrench as wide as it would go, slipped it over the shock pin and held it against the face of the washer. With hammer in hand, I gently tapped the wrench until the pin was out.

GlenL

I do something like that, too.

There's no (good) reason for it to jamb there. Keep tapping it.

Bilal928S4

You need something like this slide hammer plier tool.
http://www.lasvegastool.com/Easy-Puller

johnu

Thanks guys
Another reason to get a new tool for the workshop maybe

MainePorsche

If you can't improvise along Jarrod's line and you're going to get a tool to add and use later, get this.

Mrmerlin

get some PB blaster, spray on the pin at the rear .

Spray up from under the hub carrier, there is a hole so you can see the pin.

push the pin back in.

Then spray some more from the bottom of the carrier.

Use a big screw driver and a 22 mm open end wrench to pry the pin out towards the rear.

NOTE disconnect the sway bar link at the lower control arm

johnu

You guys rock. Took a break from the frustration. Built some lego with my kid...that was even more frustration because it was the cheap Chinese crap (see waterpump thread lol)
Used the liquid wrench and the big adjustable wrench and hammered it out.
Thanks!
John

FredR

When you put the lot back together again one thing you will find makes it easier is if you have a drift the same size or of a slightly smaller diameter. Push this through from the front so that it holds the taper washers in place either side of the wheel carrier.

I also found getting the coilover back into its 3 holes was a bit tricky single handed- better if you can get an extra pair of hands to help with that one. I managed on my own but there was some "blue language" flying around at the time.

Rgds

Fred

Adk46

Yes, raising the strut into position and getting one nut on the studs is a challenge. One of the very rare situations where I've risked my marriage.

I recall that a good glob of grease can hold those darn washers in place, but a more "deterministic" method such as Fred's would have been better. I chose not to risk the marriage for this operation

GlenL

Getting it back in is fun. Or no fun. Depends on your personal proclivities.

I use a small floor jack to lift the shock up to get a nut or to on the top. One, just loose, is all you need. Note the slight angle on the bushing at the bottom of the shock. It points down towards the rear.

Then I jack up the arm a bit to get it all aligned. The washers are fun, too. I put them all in and run the rod down. Inevitably, some fall out and I'm putting them back as I tap the rod ahead.

FredR

I used some grease to help seat those cone washers but it was not enough. After scratching my head for 10 minutes I stuck my long 1/2 inch drive extension in from the front to hold it all together.

I found that the assembly was such that once one of the cone washers fell out I could not get it to go back in and that by assembling the job lot from the front to the back the last washer was the one to tap into position and lock the assembly then push the main shaft through once everything seemed aligned.

Just as Glen describes I used two screw jacks to support the coilover and the wheel carrier and by small adjustments pushed the coilover until the studs more or less engaged the chassis bolt holes with the coilover studs in contact. Then after assessing where the studs where in relation to the holes I just wiggled the unit until it engaged and then jacked the unit up a bit more so I could catch the studs with the nuts.

Initially I wondered if I was ever going to get it back in but a bit of moral support from Terry up in Dubai via Whattsapp and it was all done and dusted. The second one seemed much easier and only took a few minutes to get back together.

The joys of working in isolation!

Rgds

Fred

jpitman2

I did one side easily, then had trouble with other side, until I realised the top mount only goes up one way - its asymmetric!

jp 83 Euro S AT 56k

dr bob

The lower pin on my car is still cad plated. Came out easily with little more than finger pressure. Going back in, BE SURE to add a coating of anti-sieze to the pin and also to the shock bushing inside. Carefully observe the torque requirements, but only after the rear suspension is at normal ride height again. When all is assembled, that pin squeezes all the pieces together, so there is no movement relative to the pin. All the motion is managed by flex in the bushings including the one in the lower shock absorber eye.

Failure to get the pin in correctly and the torque setings right will result in a distinct step-out as you transition from throttle to braking and back. Beyond being a bit disconcerting when it happens, it's downright dangerous if you happen to be in a corner when the support seems to just drop out under that tire.

mark kibort

i put a vise grip around that smooth part. (the large vice grip) and bang no that with a hammer while rotating it.