Mark Thornton

I had to remove the entire slave cylinder to install flywheel lock ,( I removed Nothing else) I reinstalled slave cyl. and went to bleed the clutch, first gravity then pressure, I pushed down on the clutch pedal it went to the floor and will not return unless I pull it up ,( seems like the return spring should be going the other way) the slave seems to be bled correctly but I get very little travel on the rod and pedal stays down when I push on it.. Engine runs like a top no leaks now this Ahhhhhh Flustered

hacker-pschorr

Simple things first, pull the carpet / floor mat back and make sure the bleeding process didn't upset the seals in the clutch master.

Something similar happened to my 78 working on the slave and mechanicals. Upon bleeding suddenly the pedal dropped to the floor. Inspection revealed I now had a brake fluid soaked drivers side foot-well.
Updates to my thread have been on hold due to other more urgent projects.....

Mark Thornton

Where is the clutch master located?It seems it shares the brake resevour. I have an 85

hacker-pschorr

It's behind the clutch pedal inside the car.

Take out the floor mat / padding and stick your head up in there with a flashlight.

Here is my leaking one, every 928 from 78-95 is the same here


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Mark Thornton

Well I guess I answered my own question.I finally found a listers post on same subject and seems I am in the market for a power bleeder Thank you for you help It did clear things up a lot I think to get the master changed out it required removal of the fender or inner fenderwell?

jcorenman

Mark, assuming that you disconnected the slave cylinder from the clutch hard-line, then some air got in. When you push down the clutch pedal the air gets compressed, the pedal goes to the floor, and the slave doesn't move. No big deal, just needs bleeding.

The pedal sticks to the floor because of the "helper spring". Just reach down and lift it back up.

Next time try not to disconnect the slave. If you remove the two oil-pan screws that secure the bracket which secures the hardline, then you gain enough wiggle-room to back the slave out a few inches. Reach through the hole in the bottom and pull the rod out of the slave with long-nose pliers, remove the rod through the rectangular hole where the slave mounts, and you will have plenty of room for the flywheel lock (or bleeding...).

OK, bleeding: The power bleeder is a help but not necessary. Remember that air is lighter than brake fluid, and air bubbles rise; they never sink. Large bubbles rise faster than small ones, and adding pressure makes large bubbles into small ones. Keep these things in mind whenever you read something about bleeding anything.

So first try bleeding upwards. Check the fluid in the brake reservoir (yes, shared reservoir). Make sure it is not empty, and has some room left. If you did not add any fluid then you are good. But you need some room, we're going to be pushing fluid upwards into the reservoir.

Next, remote the slave as I outlined above, without disconnecting the hardline. With the rod seated in the slave, push the rod into the slave until it stops. (If you added fluid to the reservoir, have someone watch it). Then let the slave release slooowly. Repeat this a few times. What you are doing is forcing fluid and air bubbles up into the reservoir, then letting fluid back down. Release slowly, so that the fluid moves back down slowly but faster than the little bubbles.

Then button it back up and try it. Most of the time, for us, this is all that is needed. (Actually we rarely have to screw with this, because see below).

Bleeding downwards is a bitch, because air bubbles float. One thing you can do to help is make the bubbles smaller: Small bubbles rise more slowly. Do this with pressure: Not with the power bleeder (although that will help keep the reservoir full), but with the clutch pedal. Important: This is done with the slave in place, pushing on the clutch. Don't ever push the clutch pedal with the slave connected hydraulically but not mounted, you will blow slave parts and fluid across the shop. (No, we haven't BTDT, yet).

This is a two-person job: The expert (you) dives under the car with a piece of 1/4" tubing, a jar, and a 7mm wrench (IIRC). Remove the bleeder cap from the slave, attach the hose and direct it into the jar. Have the helper push the clutch pedal to the floor and hold it there, while you open and close the bleeder and dump the fluid pressure into the jar (and hopefully some air).

Then ask the helper to slooowly lift the pedal, letting fresh fluid into the master. (Slowly because the refill hole is small). Do this a few times, adding fluid as needed, then test. The helper will be able to tell you when things start to firm up. (This is very similar to bleeding brakes, by the way).

Now if you want to be really cool, get one of Greg Brown's cosmic clutch hoses and replace that silly hardline that runs between oil-pan and starter. You will be able to pull the slave and twirl it around your head, without disconnecting anything-- just unbolt the slave.

And lastly (for now), do not even contemplate pulling or replacing the clutch master. It can be done (and without hacking up the car), but is almost never necessary. If you need seals (which Erik likely does) it can be done from inside the car: just pull the guts out and replace with new. But unless you got very unlucky, that is not needed here.

Mark Thornton

Great info TY I hope to get this thing buttoned up today.

Mark Thornton

As they say here in the South "Bless your Heart" I did exactly as you said and ;; Drum roll.. It's Fixed Shazammm Thank you so much.. Now i am running down a few more electrical gremlins .. and it is finished ready for the road after almost 10 yrs..