Herman K

I'm working on taking out the clutch, I found that the intermediate shaft didn't want to slide back far enough to clear from the pilot bearing.

It appears that the pilot bearing is stuck on the shaft preventing it from sliding back.

The pictures show the distance required and the method I used to get it to move back.

Next I will undo (4) the bell housing bolts to get a little more space to get the clutch pack to come out.

hlee96

FWIW, since I am new to working on cars, and I only had 1 experience taking out the clutch. However, I had the same experience back in July, and I found out that the splines of the intermediate shaft was getting caught in different places (clutch disc, pressure plate, etc) as it was being pulled out and I had to rotate it on its axis ever so slightly for it to work.

Keeping the clamp on as you do it, since it would just jam posteriorly to the driveshaft if you don't.

the flyin' scotsman

Hman...........with the shaft clamp unbolted and pushed all the way rearward (your pic #2) loosen then remove all pressure plate bolts systematically then the pressure plate has to be pryed off the flywheel locating pins.

With everything loose the intermediate shaft should 'float' sufficiently to allow it to be pulled rearward and drop the clutch assembly.

Be very careful, its quite heavy and awkward.

davek9

And don't forget to install some clips in the PP before removing the bolts in order to retain spacing, yes?

Herman K

So after I undid the (4) bell housing bolts some and the (2) transmission mount bolts allowing a bell housing gap I did get the pack to drop down.

The pictures show what I expected to find the pilot bearing had come apart internally you can see the blue hot spot on the metal of the bearing and it seized on the center shaft giving me an abnormal situation of pulling the center shaft back in order for the clutch pack to drop down.

This clutch pack has 100k miles on it and the plate it self was not worn out I measured the overall thickness it was 9.3 mm compared to the brand new one which is 10.5 mm the plate in the middle came from another car with 15k miles on it and it measured 10MM.

The center shaft picture has the old one (100k) on top and a new one below it just for comparison.

I'll be cleaning up all the other parts and checking them

Wisconsin Joe

Yup. That looks familiar.

I had the exact same situation last spring. I didn't have to undo the bell housing, once I got the pilot shaft out of the end of the crank (my bearing was seized onto the short shaft too), I was able to maneuver the clutch pack around enough to drop it (and not on my head).

MrMerlin had some very helpful advice for the reinstall (towards the end),

Thread here:

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...l-problem.html

RFJ

Just for your information you are supposed to push the clutch pedal(that thing hanging down on the left) down once in a while.

Herman K

I did replace the clutch lever nylon bushing (while the clutch was installed in the car) at one stage some years ago when I found that this bushing had failed and perhaps the clutch was used without a healthy nylon bushing in place there has been metal on metal friction.

Now with the old lever out I can see that the metal ball has worn some of socket back wall so any new bushing that's get installed quickly get punctured and fail again.

Versus installing it in the socket of a new lever that has a metal surface that conforms to the new nylon bushing.

the flyin' scotsman

The GTS clutch lever has subtle difference from the previous GT and S4 cars so it properly matches the GTS TO brg.