Bad synchro or not?
#16
Rennlist Member
by the way... why is it borg warner gear box synchros are so much better and why do they grip so much more firmly, like they lock!?
and i said:
.
I thought those peaks contacted to speed up the driveline and they created more friction when pointy. guess not.. so what exactly slows or speed up the driveline.. what contact point? and how do you determine wear. I just remember my menchanic at the time of my old '84, looking at the synchros and saying" its worn out, we need new ones"
I seemed to remembrer that it was the tops of the hub vs the inner diameter of the synchro ring that made contact via the slider and then the syncho teeth would engage ... f they didn't slow or speed up to match, the both synchro teeth would make that awful sound. so its those rings ID and OD that determine wear?
I thought those peaks contacted to speed up the driveline and they created more friction when pointy. guess not.. so what exactly slows or speed up the driveline.. what contact point? and how do you determine wear. I just remember my menchanic at the time of my old '84, looking at the synchros and saying" its worn out, we need new ones"
I seemed to remembrer that it was the tops of the hub vs the inner diameter of the synchro ring that made contact via the slider and then the syncho teeth would engage ... f they didn't slow or speed up to match, the both synchro teeth would make that awful sound. so its those rings ID and OD that determine wear?
#17
Former Vendor
The good part about an internet forum is anyone can post anything. The bad thing is anyone can post anything. Giving advice to someone when you do not know anything/much about the topic to me is irresponsible and your comments about pointy teeth and syncros is proof of that. It also makes it clear why you THINK early transmissions shift poorly compared to the Borg Warner 1985> boxes. Your experience was with worn transmissions and a half assed rebuild where it got new syncros put on with worn parts.....
For simplicity think about brake pads and rotors....if you only replace the pads sooner or later the rotors get worn down too. Wear occurs on BOTH !
The engaging teeth "dog teeth" are what gets worn ground down AFTER the syncro friction surface starts to fail or the trans is abused clutch is dragging. The noise which people call worn syncros is from those teeth grinding on the slider. But reality is syncros themselves make no noise.
If as you maintain you get the effect of double clutching by dragging the shift lever across neutral while reving the engine with the clutch only partially disengaged... that would reek havoc on the sliders and dog teeth...
Like I said you should try not to embarrass your self....
For simplicity think about brake pads and rotors....if you only replace the pads sooner or later the rotors get worn down too. Wear occurs on BOTH !
The engaging teeth "dog teeth" are what gets worn ground down AFTER the syncro friction surface starts to fail or the trans is abused clutch is dragging. The noise which people call worn syncros is from those teeth grinding on the slider. But reality is syncros themselves make no noise.
If as you maintain you get the effect of double clutching by dragging the shift lever across neutral while reving the engine with the clutch only partially disengaged... that would reek havoc on the sliders and dog teeth...
Like I said you should try not to embarrass your self....
Anything that slows this process down increases the wear on the synchro and the slider.
And don't forget that the synchro and the slider also contact each other (and thus wear) when taking the transmission out of the existing gear!
Slow shifting to be "kind" to the gearbox, double clutching, and hesitating part way through the shift all add additional wear.
The 901 transmssions (65-71 911s), 914 transmissions (70-76), 915 transmssions (72-85 911s), 930 transmissions (76-89), and the Porsche designed 924, 931, and 937 transmissions all used this style synchro.
Dedicated track cars, because they generally get shifted very quickly, hardly ever wore this style synchro out.
My advice on shifting one of this style transmission:
Shift it quickly as possible (without "crunching") in one continuous motion. If, for any reason, the clutch does not release properly (causing severe wear both engaging and disengaging directions) shut the engine off and fix the problem, immediately! Never ever attempt a clutchless shift!
These transmissions, when proper, are a delight to drive. (And really bad to drive when they are not.) Just enough "feel" (to tell you that you are fullly in the proper gear) to make any gearhead smile. And, when proper (and the clutch releases), will shift flawlessly for a minimum of 75,000 miles.
I absolutely love to drive one of these transmissions!
#18
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Oh crap no more " speed shifts" without the clutch....what was I thinking.... In all fairness the later Borg Warner style syncros seem to tolerate abuse somewhat better. Porsche learned that many ham fisted Amercans could not help but abuse the equipment. .... no fixing STUPID !!
#19
Former Vendor
#20
Former Vendor
Oh crap no more " speed shifts" without the clutch....what was I thinking.... In all fairness the later Borg Warner style syncros seem to tolerate abuse somewhat better. Porsche learned that many ham fisted Amercans could not help but abuse the equipment. .... no fixing STUPID !!
Even the Borg Warner design synchros had limits of surface area as gears got bigger.
The "dual" synchro design on the 1st and 2nd gears of the 993/early 996 Cup transmissions is really elegant, but the cost of those pieces was crazy....the price on the three pieces required for one gear in the race transmissions (steel synchro, not brass like in the street car) was $2000. Three pieces that weigh ounces and fit in the palm of your hand = $2000! That's for EACH gear!
I'd guess I've bought 40-50 sets of those things, over the years....
Maybe that's one of the reason I don't blink at $1000 water pumps?
#21
Rennlist Member
Oh crap no more " speed shifts" without the clutch....what was I thinking.... In all fairness the later Borg Warner style syncros seem to tolerate abuse somewhat better. Porsche learned that many ham fisted Amercans could not help but abuse the equipment. .... no fixing STUPID !!
the 928 with its larger rotating transmission mass, doesnt like quick shifting . you need to be able to time how long the RPM Of the engine takes to come down before you shift, as well as blipping downshifts. most dont reaize that the slight dragging, spins up or down the driveline. want proof... go 70mph and downshift into 2nd via a short stop in neutral... wait for a nice ugly grind.
now, do the same thing with a big RPP blip, it doesnt grind... whats the difference? its because the driveline is passively spun up during the shift? I tend to think so. Funny, i feel so guilty as i got a lot of grinds out of the holbert transmisson for the first 3 years of racing it, especiallly when it got hot. every since 2004, i can probably cound the times ive heard a grind sound, over thousands of shifts, maybe on one hand after learnign to perfect the "blip"on the 928. (which is a little differnet than other race cars like , mustangs bmws, 911s, corvettes, aston martns, and mazdas ive driven at the track )
The thing that most people miss about this style synchro is that the faster the slider goes over the top of the synchro and engages the teeth on the gear, the less wear there is.
Anything that slows this process down increases the wear on the synchro and the slider.
And don't forget that the synchro and the slider also contact each other (and thus wear) when taking the transmission out of the existing gear!
Slow shifting to be "kind" to the gearbox, double clutching, and hesitating part way through the shift all add additional wear.
The 901 transmssions (65-71 911s), 914 transmissions (70-76), 915 transmssions (72-85 911s), 930 transmissions (76-89), and the Porsche designed 924, 931, and 937 transmissions all used this style synchro.
Dedicated track cars, because they generally get shifted very quickly, hardly ever wore this style synchro out.
My advice on shifting one of this style transmission:
Shift it quickly as possible (without "crunching") in one continuous motion. If, for any reason, the clutch does not release properly (causing severe wear both engaging and disengaging directions) shut the engine off and fix the problem, immediately! Never ever attempt a clutchless shift!
These transmissions, when proper, are a delight to drive. (And really bad to drive when they are not.) Just enough "feel" (to tell you that you are fullly in the proper gear) to make any gearhead smile. And, when proper (and the clutch releases), will shift flawlessly for a minimum of 75,000 miles.
I absolutely love to drive one of these transmissions!
Anything that slows this process down increases the wear on the synchro and the slider.
And don't forget that the synchro and the slider also contact each other (and thus wear) when taking the transmission out of the existing gear!
Slow shifting to be "kind" to the gearbox, double clutching, and hesitating part way through the shift all add additional wear.
The 901 transmssions (65-71 911s), 914 transmissions (70-76), 915 transmssions (72-85 911s), 930 transmissions (76-89), and the Porsche designed 924, 931, and 937 transmissions all used this style synchro.
Dedicated track cars, because they generally get shifted very quickly, hardly ever wore this style synchro out.
My advice on shifting one of this style transmission:
Shift it quickly as possible (without "crunching") in one continuous motion. If, for any reason, the clutch does not release properly (causing severe wear both engaging and disengaging directions) shut the engine off and fix the problem, immediately! Never ever attempt a clutchless shift!
These transmissions, when proper, are a delight to drive. (And really bad to drive when they are not.) Just enough "feel" (to tell you that you are fullly in the proper gear) to make any gearhead smile. And, when proper (and the clutch releases), will shift flawlessly for a minimum of 75,000 miles.
I absolutely love to drive one of these transmissions!
big blip downshifts, need to be done with precision as well
what is the difference of the S4 or 85 synchros. more surface area? grippy surface?
And as the mass of the gears continued to increase to handle increased torque, this design did not have enough frictional surface area.
The "dual" synchro design on the 1st and 2nd gears of the 993/early 996 Cup transmissions is really elegant, but the cost of making those pieces was crazy....the price on the three pieces required for one gear in the race transmissions (steel synchro, not brass like in the street car) was $2000. Three pieces that weigh ounces and fit in the palm of your hand = $2000! That's for EACH gear!
I'd guess I've bought 40-50 sets of those things, over the years....
Maybe that's one of the reason I don't blink at $1000 water pumps?
The "dual" synchro design on the 1st and 2nd gears of the 993/early 996 Cup transmissions is really elegant, but the cost of making those pieces was crazy....the price on the three pieces required for one gear in the race transmissions (steel synchro, not brass like in the street car) was $2000. Three pieces that weigh ounces and fit in the palm of your hand = $2000! That's for EACH gear!
I'd guess I've bought 40-50 sets of those things, over the years....
Maybe that's one of the reason I don't blink at $1000 water pumps?
#22
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And as the mass of the gears continued to increase to handle increased torque, this design did not have enough frictional surface area.
Even the Borg Warner design synchros had limits of surface area as gears got bigger.
The "dual" synchro design on the 1st and 2nd gears of the 993/early 996 Cup transmissions is really elegant, but the cost of those pieces was crazy....the price on the three pieces required for one gear in the race transmissions (steel synchro, not brass like in the street car) was $2000. Three pieces that weigh ounces and fit in the palm of your hand = $2000! That's for EACH gear!
I'd guess I've bought 40-50 sets of those things, over the years....
Maybe that's one of the reason I don't blink at $1000 water pumps?
Even the Borg Warner design synchros had limits of surface area as gears got bigger.
The "dual" synchro design on the 1st and 2nd gears of the 993/early 996 Cup transmissions is really elegant, but the cost of those pieces was crazy....the price on the three pieces required for one gear in the race transmissions (steel synchro, not brass like in the street car) was $2000. Three pieces that weigh ounces and fit in the palm of your hand = $2000! That's for EACH gear!
I'd guess I've bought 40-50 sets of those things, over the years....
Maybe that's one of the reason I don't blink at $1000 water pumps?
#23
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The thing that most people miss about this style synchro is that the faster the slider goes over the top of the synchro and engages the teeth on the gear, the less wear there is. ....
Anything that slows this process down increases the wear on the synchro and the slider.......
Dedicated track cars, because they generally get shifted very quickly, hardly ever wore this style synchro out.
My advice on shifting one of this style transmission:
Shift it quickly as possible (without "crunching") in one continuous motion. If, for any reason, the clutch does not release properly (causing severe wear both engaging and disengaging directions) shut the engine off and fix the !
Anything that slows this process down increases the wear on the synchro and the slider.......
Dedicated track cars, because they generally get shifted very quickly, hardly ever wore this style synchro out.
My advice on shifting one of this style transmission:
Shift it quickly as possible (without "crunching") in one continuous motion. If, for any reason, the clutch does not release properly (causing severe wear both engaging and disengaging directions) shut the engine off and fix the !
#24
Rennlist Member
Also, but you seem to discount, proper rev blips with a smooth path across neutral, to spin up the driveline.. that saves the synchros you have to think about the force to spin up the driveline rotating mass (including transmission).
3000rpm , going up to 6000rpm in fractions of a second. You dont do it right, and that entire burden is left for the synchros . The borg warners are much tougher, but still can get worn if you race the car without care here. however, street use? not anywhere near as bad .. thats why you rarely see S4s with bad sycnhros and most all pre 85s are grinders unless you are careful.
#25
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The brake analogy only works if you lock up the brakes.....just as clutch discs would last forever if you never operate the clutch. It is the slippage which causes wear.
#26
Rennlist Member
actually, what you said is a good analogy.. locking up your tires using the brakes , slowly or fast. slowly wears the brakes more.
#27
What causes the resistance you feel as you're pushing it into gear? Is it a good technique to push gently and wait for the resistance to lighten, before firmly and quickly engaging the gear? Or does the very fact that you're feeling resistance mean the synchros are sliding?
#28
Former Vendor
What causes the resistance you feel as you're pushing it into gear? Is it a good technique to push gently and wait for the resistance to lighten, before firmly and quickly engaging the gear? Or does the very fact that you're feeling resistance mean the synchros are sliding?
This is what you are feeling.
I'm not sure if they are made from some type of spring steel to be able to do this thousands of times, but it would make sense, if they were.