Timing belt Water pump and Poken tensioner install
#16
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I am torn down, belt off and crank set at 45 deg. My WP bolts came right out no problem My belt was good as the WP but car was laid up almost 10 yrs, thus reason for change out. I marked the cam gears before removing the belt. God Help me get through this procedure..
#17
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Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Adirondack Mountains, New York
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Except for the PKT, I followed Dwayne's instructions religiously, including putting the crankshaft at 45°. I recall one gear moving a tooth or two, but it was no trouble moving it back while slding on the belt.
I was confused by the bag of parts included with the PKT. I should have gotten more advice, but it seems I - pure noob at the time - got it on correctly.
I have occasional anxiety attacks about deleting the air pump. Not important in my state, but it will be a bad feature to a prospective buyer in California and some other places. The deal with a PKT, of course, is there are two versions, with and without. I wonder if some tubular spacer would allow a universal version.
I was confused by the bag of parts included with the PKT. I should have gotten more advice, but it seems I - pure noob at the time - got it on correctly.
I have occasional anxiety attacks about deleting the air pump. Not important in my state, but it will be a bad feature to a prospective buyer in California and some other places. The deal with a PKT, of course, is there are two versions, with and without. I wonder if some tubular spacer would allow a universal version.
#19
I second that. Strip her down then make your parts list if you have any leaks. And while you are waiting for more parts you clean the hell out of it.
#20
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Having the front end ripped open scared me a bit. I was half a tooth off on drivers side when back together. Dumb. So I redid it. Noob moment.
One thing I wish I did was illustrate each bolt. Got confused on a couple as to which hole. All ok in the end. I did pray the first crank.
Damn good feeling when all is done and having peace of mind job done.
One thing I wish I did was illustrate each bolt. Got confused on a couple as to which hole. All ok in the end. I did pray the first crank.
Damn good feeling when all is done and having peace of mind job done.
#21
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Glad to say All is well just finishing up . Went super well detailed instructions helped also some Listers suggestions as well . engine started right up . (Happy dance) I did the job at 45 deg. One suggestion the at helped reinforce my install was to mark the old timing belt as well as the gear. i then transfered the marks to the new belt and this insured me I was in perfect time.. cranked it over a few times then assembled it to start. It Cranked and lit right off. Many thanks to all who gave advice.. Love this site.. tomorrow I am going to tear the top end down clean my injectors replace all fuel lines vac hoses ect. and paint it it is a hidous light brown color..
#23
Rennlist Member
Mark, what did you have to do (small animal sacrifice?) to get that idler pulley from the old tensioner setup off the water pump, in order to gain bolt access? I'm am currently stuck on that...
#24
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Belt pully removal from waterpump
No actually it came right off with help of 2 ft pry bar. The bushing stayed on the pump but it didn't matter as I was changing out the pump and the Po-ken didn't require that pulley anymore. Cheers and Happy New Year
#25
Rennlist Member
Same to you! Mine wouldn't budge, until the bearing eventually exploded, leaving the inner race stuck there forever...which was OK, since I could then access the bolt it was hiding.
Someone figured out in retrospect that the puller I was using was pushing into the bolt hole at the center, deforming it and pushing it outward into the bearing so it would never properly come off. Properly, I should have put the bolt back in there to prevent that from happening. Live and learn!
Someone figured out in retrospect that the puller I was using was pushing into the bolt hole at the center, deforming it and pushing it outward into the bearing so it would never properly come off. Properly, I should have put the bolt back in there to prevent that from happening. Live and learn!
#26
Rennlist Member
Having the front end ripped open scared me a bit. I was half a tooth off on drivers side when back together. Dumb. So I redid it. Noob moment.
One thing I wish I did was illustrate each bolt. Got confused on a couple as to which hole. All ok in the end. I did pray the first crank.
Damn good feeling when all is done and having peace of mind job done.
One thing I wish I did was illustrate each bolt. Got confused on a couple as to which hole. All ok in the end. I did pray the first crank.
Damn good feeling when all is done and having peace of mind job done.
#27
Rennlist Member
which bolt on the early cars lets water escape? i thought the idler pulley, where the tensioner arm bolts in, allows water to pour out? is that only on the early cars, or am i confusing it with another bolt?
with PK tensioner, if that is the case, you just put a bolt in there to seal it?
with PK tensioner, if that is the case, you just put a bolt in there to seal it?
#28
Captain Obvious
Super User
Super User
I will take a bucket full of shilt for this but -- do NOT move the crank around to 45deg to remove the belt. Lock and leave it at TDC and do the line up with the tick marks on the back of the cam pulleys. Most of the harranging comes from people who post here saying 'help! I moved my crank to 45deg and now I can't align it anymore!'.
Flame on.
Flame on.
#29
Rennlist Member
well, that's if you don't need to rotate the cams around as well. if you are replacing cams, sure , have it locked to 45 degrees to give the ability to rotate stuff. but, with a water pump or just timing belt change, why bother. just put at at TDC and have fun. The real difference is which cam will be spring loaded and move on you about 4 teeth. i prefer the cam that moves when the engine is set TDC for ease of TB installation.
#30
Rennlist Member
What does it mean that neither of mine jumped, at all. They're both rock solid with the belt off at the point I marked (45 degrees).
well, that's if you don't need to rotate the cams around as well. if you are replacing cams, sure , have it locked to 45 degrees to give the ability to rotate stuff. but, with a water pump or just timing belt change, why bother. just put at at TDC and have fun. The real difference is which cam will be spring loaded and move on you about 4 teeth. i prefer the cam that moves when the engine is set TDC for ease of TB installation.