1978 US #277 (Jacques). Part 1: Clutch
#16
You then have room to remove the starter/clutch cover as an assembly.
Last edited by LT Texan; 11-12-2015 at 12:42 PM.
#18
I'm not a fan of how the factory routed the clutch slave hardline on the early cars. I see it as a safety issue, as it is very exposed. Clutch and brake fluid are supplied from the same reservoir.
My solution was to fabricate a new hardline that is routed similar to the later models, above the starter.
My solution was to fabricate a new hardline that is routed similar to the later models, above the starter.
#19
the best routing for the slave cylinder is to upgrade to the Greg Brown long flex hose,
it completly removes the factory hard line and flex line, from the sway bar anchor point on.
It replaces it with a long insulated flex line.
This line routs along the front of the starter,
and arcs around to the slave cylinder.
I have found that after letting the slave gravity bleed,
and with it removed from the bell housing,
simply gently pushing the push rod of the slave to full compression,
then letting it return to full stroke will effectively remove any air in the MC.
NOTE the feed port must run in a continuous uphill to the reservoir .
it completly removes the factory hard line and flex line, from the sway bar anchor point on.
It replaces it with a long insulated flex line.
This line routs along the front of the starter,
and arcs around to the slave cylinder.
I have found that after letting the slave gravity bleed,
and with it removed from the bell housing,
simply gently pushing the push rod of the slave to full compression,
then letting it return to full stroke will effectively remove any air in the MC.
NOTE the feed port must run in a continuous uphill to the reservoir .
#20
Check to make sure the clutch fork is still on the pivot at the top. You can see it in a hole at the top of the bell housing. The early cars use a very small pivot ball they were replaced in 79 with a larger sized one. I think this was done because the smaller ones had enough room to fall out. If it falls out while the car is running it makes a huge mess inside.... Yes I bought a car like that #131. I spent a day welding the bell housing and cover back together. The old pivot ball usually disappears out the inspection hole. I made a new one out of a bolt with the shank made into a ball. I also had to put a helicoil into the old hole the threads were smashed and lots of red lock tight and a lock nut on my home made pivot...good luck
#21
the best routing for the slave cylinder is to upgrade to the Greg Brown long flex hose,
it completly removes the factory hard line and flex line, from the sway bar anchor point on.
It replaces it with a long insulated flex line.
This line routs along the front of the starter,
and arcs around to the slave cylinder...
it completly removes the factory hard line and flex line, from the sway bar anchor point on.
It replaces it with a long insulated flex line.
This line routs along the front of the starter,
and arcs around to the slave cylinder...
Nice rig, however. Is that GB hose for 87> or does it work for 80-86 as well?
#22
The later cars have a much shorter flex hose than in Stans pic; from the same position of the metal line from the master over to a bracket mounted on the engine then a short hard line to the slave thats above the starter.
Amazing evolution of a clutch line
Last edited by the flyin' scotsman; 11-18-2015 at 11:06 PM.
#24
I'm not a fan of how the factory routed the clutch slave hardline on the early cars. I see it as a safety issue, as it is very exposed. Clutch and brake fluid are supplied from the same reservoir.
My solution was to fabricate a new hardline that is routed similar to the later models, above the starter.
My solution was to fabricate a new hardline that is routed similar to the later models, above the starter.
Looks like a nice common sense upgrade.
Brian.
#26
On hold a the moment, other projects in the way and I tend to stop working on projects in the summer to spend time enjoying the stuff I fixed over the winter.
I did tackle the clutch master:
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...he-fender.html
The drivers seat is with Rob Budd seeing what we can do about one seam coming apart, thankfully no real tearing so hopefully we can salvage most of the material.
I did tackle the clutch master:
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...he-fender.html
The drivers seat is with Rob Budd seeing what we can do about one seam coming apart, thankfully no real tearing so hopefully we can salvage most of the material.