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1978 US #277 (Jacques). Part 1: Clutch

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Old 11-11-2015 | 11:15 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by the flyin' scotsman
no need to remove starter to drop the clutch......remove the bolts and push out of position 1/4" or so.
Remove the slave with the line attached.

You then have room to remove the starter/clutch cover as an assembly.

Last edited by LT Texan; 11-12-2015 at 12:42 PM.
Old 11-17-2015 | 05:37 PM
  #17  
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Default Some tubing routing pictures.





Brian.
Old 11-17-2015 | 07:19 PM
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I'm not a fan of how the factory routed the clutch slave hardline on the early cars. I see it as a safety issue, as it is very exposed. Clutch and brake fluid are supplied from the same reservoir.
My solution was to fabricate a new hardline that is routed similar to the later models, above the starter.

Old 11-17-2015 | 11:05 PM
  #19  
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the best routing for the slave cylinder is to upgrade to the Greg Brown long flex hose,
it completly removes the factory hard line and flex line, from the sway bar anchor point on.
It replaces it with a long insulated flex line.
This line routs along the front of the starter,
and arcs around to the slave cylinder.

I have found that after letting the slave gravity bleed,
and with it removed from the bell housing,
simply gently pushing the push rod of the slave to full compression,
then letting it return to full stroke will effectively remove any air in the MC.

NOTE the feed port must run in a continuous uphill to the reservoir .
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Old 11-18-2015 | 09:43 PM
  #20  
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Check to make sure the clutch fork is still on the pivot at the top. You can see it in a hole at the top of the bell housing. The early cars use a very small pivot ball they were replaced in 79 with a larger sized one. I think this was done because the smaller ones had enough room to fall out. If it falls out while the car is running it makes a huge mess inside.... Yes I bought a car like that #131. I spent a day welding the bell housing and cover back together. The old pivot ball usually disappears out the inspection hole. I made a new one out of a bolt with the shank made into a ball. I also had to put a helicoil into the old hole the threads were smashed and lots of red lock tight and a lock nut on my home made pivot...good luck
Old 11-18-2015 | 10:02 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Mrmerlin
the best routing for the slave cylinder is to upgrade to the Greg Brown long flex hose,
it completly removes the factory hard line and flex line, from the sway bar anchor point on.
It replaces it with a long insulated flex line.
This line routs along the front of the starter,
and arcs around to the slave cylinder...
78-79 uses a completely different hose and mount.

Nice rig, however. Is that GB hose for 87> or does it work for 80-86 as well?
Old 11-18-2015 | 10:20 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Jadz928
78-79 uses a completely different hose and mount.

Nice rig, however. Is that GB hose for 87> or does it work for 80-86 as well?

The later cars have a much shorter flex hose than in Stans pic; from the same position of the metal line from the master over to a bracket mounted on the engine then a short hard line to the slave thats above the starter.

Amazing evolution of a clutch line
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Last edited by the flyin' scotsman; 11-18-2015 at 11:06 PM.
Old 01-30-2016 | 11:22 PM
  #23  
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Bump - yes this project has been on hold since November...... Finally getting back into the swing of things.

Updated Post #2 with the master cylinder update.
Old 01-31-2016 | 09:37 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Jadz928
I'm not a fan of how the factory routed the clutch slave hardline on the early cars. I see it as a safety issue, as it is very exposed. Clutch and brake fluid are supplied from the same reservoir.
My solution was to fabricate a new hardline that is routed similar to the later models, above the starter.

Jim, you made more than one...right?

Looks like a nice common sense upgrade.

Brian.
Old 07-21-2016 | 12:51 AM
  #25  
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More to come here, or did it move to another thread?
Old 07-21-2016 | 09:29 AM
  #26  
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On hold a the moment, other projects in the way and I tend to stop working on projects in the summer to spend time enjoying the stuff I fixed over the winter.

I did tackle the clutch master:

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...he-fender.html

The drivers seat is with Rob Budd seeing what we can do about one seam coming apart, thankfully no real tearing so hopefully we can salvage most of the material.



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