1978 US #277 (Jacques). Part 1: Clutch
#1
1978 US #277 (Jacques). Part 1: Clutch
Today was more of an "inspection" day since I know very little about the car. I saw it in a garage, didn't even start it.....paid the owner weeks later and first drove it up onto a trailer. Once home, took it around the block (shutting the engine off at every stop to put it back in 1st or 2nd) then into the garage it went, only came out this past Sunday.
Here are my inspection photos. Some interesting artifacts in back, along with a very, very, very.....ugh....creative way to fit a marine battery into a 928.
I never knew the early cars had a different grounding point for the battery.
Does that clutch hard line look....."normal" for a 78? I know this car underwent a clutch hydraulics repair within the past 3-4 years.
Is that shift boot how the early cars were along with the shifter cover? I know the previous owner cut down the shift lever, I need to restore that.
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Here are my inspection photos. Some interesting artifacts in back, along with a very, very, very.....ugh....creative way to fit a marine battery into a 928.
I never knew the early cars had a different grounding point for the battery.
Does that clutch hard line look....."normal" for a 78? I know this car underwent a clutch hydraulics repair within the past 3-4 years.
Is that shift boot how the early cars were along with the shifter cover? I know the previous owner cut down the shift lever, I need to restore that.
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#2
Fluid was coming out of the master cylinder.
UPDATE 1/30/16 -
Removed the master cylinder and associated lines.
My plan is to have the master cylinder rebuilt by White Post Restorations:
http://www.whitepost.com/brakeform.html
Restorations shops I know rely on them for many projects where new is not an option. Rebuilt they are better than new, and with the issues of master cylinder piston sizes, I'd rather go this route.
Thankfully the hydraulic hose is still available and not astronomically priced. I also just discovered these early cars use a smaller "blue hose" than the later cars.
This master was installed with the blue hose nipple facing down..... isn't that supposed to be on top??
Does anyone know of the 9" brake booster can be removed without taking the cam tower off? I'd like to take it all apart and clean everything up without disturbing the engine.
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UPDATE 1/30/16 -
Removed the master cylinder and associated lines.
My plan is to have the master cylinder rebuilt by White Post Restorations:
http://www.whitepost.com/brakeform.html
Restorations shops I know rely on them for many projects where new is not an option. Rebuilt they are better than new, and with the issues of master cylinder piston sizes, I'd rather go this route.
Thankfully the hydraulic hose is still available and not astronomically priced. I also just discovered these early cars use a smaller "blue hose" than the later cars.
This master was installed with the blue hose nipple facing down..... isn't that supposed to be on top??
Does anyone know of the 9" brake booster can be removed without taking the cam tower off? I'd like to take it all apart and clean everything up without disturbing the engine.
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#4
Looks like a fun project , you will find lots of older style engineering with this machine.
Please reposition the jack stands to the jacking tabs along the rockers the ,
LCA brackets could slip. the jack pads offer the most secure lifting
Best upgrade for the clutch is to install the Greg brown insulated flex hose for the slave cylinder,
it gets rid of all the hokey routing of a hard line around the starter.
Please reposition the jack stands to the jacking tabs along the rockers the ,
LCA brackets could slip. the jack pads offer the most secure lifting
Best upgrade for the clutch is to install the Greg brown insulated flex hose for the slave cylinder,
it gets rid of all the hokey routing of a hard line around the starter.
Last edited by Mrmerlin; 11-11-2015 at 08:50 AM.
#6
that shift boot was inartfully cut when the shifter was shortened. The boot actually forms up into the head of the shifter in a normal situation. Those brackets in the baggie are the hold downs for the rear carpet - they screw in at the very back, one on the left side and one on the right. There should be a black spacer too with each one (yours are missing) - the spacer goes on the carpet, the screw through the bracket and spacer. There are drilled and threaded holes for the screws. Also, substitute a wing nut for the ground strap to chasis connection, since it is much quicker than constantly unscrewing that bolt.
#7
I was harping on Rob about eye protection on Sunday! sorry you found out the hard way, but could have been much worse than just a pain.
Love this car! that interior looks very familiar, lol!
Get it running and have some fun.
W
Love this car! that interior looks very familiar, lol!
Get it running and have some fun.
W
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#8
Not sure if you are aware of this or not...but you have a serious rodent problem in your garage.
Anyhow...
That steel alternator cooling shroud is interesting. Mine is missing on old red, so if that is the correct part...another item gets added to the long list.
Did you get the inspection cover off the bell-housing before the eye injury occurred? Just wondering what you saw, if you did. You would assume it's an hydraulic issue, if it's not releasing when you disengage, and if it doesn't slip while driving. You'll know more once you can have someone step down on the clutch pedal with the cover off.
Good luck, with your project...will be following closely.
Brian.
P.S. my apologies for the poor humor at the expense of your cat.
Anyhow...
That steel alternator cooling shroud is interesting. Mine is missing on old red, so if that is the correct part...another item gets added to the long list.
Did you get the inspection cover off the bell-housing before the eye injury occurred? Just wondering what you saw, if you did. You would assume it's an hydraulic issue, if it's not releasing when you disengage, and if it doesn't slip while driving. You'll know more once you can have someone step down on the clutch pedal with the cover off.
Good luck, with your project...will be following closely.
Brian.
P.S. my apologies for the poor humor at the expense of your cat.
#9
#10
Captain Obvious
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From: Cambridge, Ontario, Canada
Cut an oil or antifreeze jug lengthwise and put it on top of the battery to prevent it from shorting out on the cover. I did this to my '85 when I had to use a nonndirect fit battery. The wood block treatment is the same as mine too. I have a seat like yours too, they are by far the most comfortable that the 928 ever had from the factory.
#11
Secondly...I have some serious concerns about this comment. But, for reasons unknown...it does sound like solid advice and agree wholeheartedly...lol.
Went out and checked old red this morning and the tube is about an inch from the bell-housing. It looks like yours may have been bent back, or removed and not put back in the proper place, and explaining why it may have clutch release problems.
Brian.
Brian.
#12
Maybe time to go get some hockey pucks? I usually have the jack stands at a 45 degree angle on the LCA bracket. Not sure why I have them straight this time.
This brings up another question....why I haven't purchased lift bars yet......Need to do that.
The day she was brought home I asked Lorelei: "Are cats supposed to bark this much?" Yup, that went over well.
Did you get the inspection cover off the bell-housing before the eye injury occurred? Just wondering what you saw, if you did. You would assume it's an hydraulic issue, if it's not releasing when you disengage, and if it doesn't slip while driving. You'll know more once you can have someone step down on the clutch pedal with the cover off.
The previous owner (he's a very experienced home mechanic, so I trust his assessment) said it stopped disengaging last fall so he stopped driving it.
I'll be installing my peek-a-boo cover so I can get a good look at the working clutch.
It's going to be fun getting that starter off with the clutch line routing.
It bolts to the muffler and transmission, never knew that before with the 78's.
#13
I have the Greg Brown clutch line on the GTS and it doesnt go all the way to the slave but perhaps different for the older cars. The metal line is routed under the starter.
Before the lift I always used the factory pads with jack stands.......motor mounts, suspension etc etc....never under the LCAs. Rather than liftbars invest in a lift.....you'll never go back.
They havent perfected eye transplants yet; pls wear protection
Before the lift I always used the factory pads with jack stands.......motor mounts, suspension etc etc....never under the LCAs. Rather than liftbars invest in a lift.....you'll never go back.
They havent perfected eye transplants yet; pls wear protection
Last edited by the flyin' scotsman; 11-11-2015 at 09:48 PM.
#14
The routing of this one is so goofy I might just make my own.
It's on the menu. When we first viewed the house, my father and I went straight to the garage with a tape measure to see how high the ceiling was (the realtor was a bit confused). If it wasn't high enough for a lift, there wasn't any point is checking out the rest of the house.
I can't tell you how many times on a build day, 3-4 of us will all be under a car and I'm the only one walking away trying to fish something out of my eye socket.
#15
***ignore the above**** a re-look at the picture shows the starter bolted directly to the lower bell housing so it shall have to come off.
Id leave the line attached to the slave and just remove the bolts to the LBH.
Last edited by the flyin' scotsman; 11-12-2015 at 07:50 AM.