Crumpler

I'm all about replacing parts, but I didn't replace the master cylinder ( I did replace the clutch masa (hehe) and slave). I figured the master cylinder was essentially cast metal. I would PB blast the fittings and clean it up and see what you got. If the threads are good, meh... sand it and paint it, tell yourself its new.

Jim Devine

The rust on the booster most likely is from the master cyl leaking and stripping the paint off at some time. Check the inside of the booster to see if there is fluid in it.

The Deputy

Good eyes and evaluation.

Missed the missing paint when I looked at it earlier, but that is usually a dead give away that fluid has been leaking at some time or another.

Brian.

hlee96

Dan, I am in the same boat. Thank you for posting the same question that has been turning inside my head for the past 2 months, while my engine had been out and waiting for my Euro engine to arrive. I just can't seem to start turning those rusted out threads in all those connections, because I know I will strip them even after PB blaster, etc. How can anyone fit their hands in there, even with the engine out. And I have small Asian hands!

Dan, keep this going. I will also chime in if anything "revealing" comes up during my resto.

Daniel5691

Thank for the encouragement, Hoi.
My plan, at this point, is to remove and replace from the booster forward for the brakes, and then the clutch lines and components, too.
One other unexpected benefit of having my poor leaky engine out, is that I can really be careful with cleanliness/contamination issues while replacing the hardware.

I have just a small amount of sanding/polishing work to conclude on my intake plenum and runners, and once I have cleaned up the "aluminum smog" in the garage I'll be cracking open those aging brake lines.

Whew!
It's actually hilarious to think that the only reason I got into this situation was a hard-to-reach cam tower oil leak.
From there, it has been an avalanche of surprises as I have uncovered 30 years of botched and half-done repairs.
.....not that I'm some sort of perfectionist mechanical savant...
.....but some of the findings have been breathtaking.....
I mean, how hard is it, really, just to perform a "stock", "by the manual" repair ?!?! LOL obviously harder than I ever imagined !!

So glad I'm catching these things now before I would have blissfully and ignorantly rushed off behind the wheel... wheee!!!! BOOM !

rlich8

Dan, sorry you're having some struggles with the Shark. I fixed so much stuff on that car. I as well, found lots of improperly done repairs and corrected what I could. Best of luck.

Daniel5691

Hi Royal !
Just sent you an updated PM !
take care !!!

Ad0911

Although the brake MC is a cast metal thing, this doesn't say much about the cups inside that are supposed to hold the pressure (a lot of it) when brake force is applied. My MC looked like new but I had it overhauled because it was out of the car for some time. I am glad I did this. The old cups were not sealing properly anymore. I saw the pictures of the old ones.

RennPartsDirect

Hoi-
Try using CRC Freeze Off. A mechanic friend of my swears by it...



Sorry to hear about your small hands.

SS

Crumpler

Yea, good point, especially if Dan thought the system wasn't performing perfectly.

rlich8

My personal opinion is to never not rework brake hydraulics when given the opportunity, especially when the condition of the materials inside of the cylinder is unknown. Or in the case of the 928, impossible to access without removing the engine or damaging the body structure of the car.