mkriete

A few months ago, I repaired a water bridge leak and replaced all the coolant hoses. This week, I found couple of small coolant puddles under the car. The first is dripping from what I believe is a transmission cooler line at the radiator, just above the radiator drain plug. The second is dripping off AC compressor bolts.

I cannot find the A/T cooler lines connections in the PET. Is this a simple o-ring, sealing ring, or compression fitting? Should I be concerned with coolant mixing with the A/T fluid due to this leak?

On my second leak, I believe it is coming from the area of the timing belt tensioner. The head gasket is dry. I read in previous posts that the roller pin penetrates the water jacket on 32V engine. Is this true on the 16V engines as well? I assume it may be the water pump as well. Should I be looking anywhere else?

MainePorsche

Another common place for a 'micro leak' is the R upper hand corner where the end tank and radiator meet. Will drip to where you find it. Regarding the water jacket on your MY, someone else will comment.

mkriete

If I'm understand correctly, I assume I'll need to remove the fan shroud to see the leak?

OTR18WHEELER

Just for info, May not pertain to your situation,
I have had two coolant leaks, ...one was the hose from the intake to the heater valve, the other was the top hose at the radiator.
OH, once I did not have the coolant resivour cap on correctly.

MainePorsche

If it's from the 'usual' spot up high on top where the end tank meets the radiator on the R you'd see it. You could see the aft bank of crimps and juncture where these two meet as well with fan shroud in for the most part. The fore bank of the end tank/radiator seam is harder to see though. In either bank it would be hard to see just a trickle if the inner end tank seal is beginning to go - you'd have to have the engine running and up to temp to spot the leak. Lifting the fan shroud up a little with engine running to spot a trickle could be done, but it would be a dicey maneuver with the fans spinning. I let the car idle for a long while up to temp and I found one leak (which I knew was there on top as I saw the original trickle), and one trickle lower down along the aft seam which I didn't know about - that one was harder to find.

John Speake

Looks from one of the pics that the rubber boot on the end of the tensioner is split. So no oil in the tensioner. Looks like a TB job is on your to do list !

davek9

I saw ^^^ that too, also the area is too dirty to easily see the source, hose it all down w/ Simple Green, and rinse. then look for your leaks.
Most likely it's a rad hose not seated, or the Rads side tank is leaking at the top and running down.

edit: your post does not state what year car this is and if it's a Euro (ROW) build

Randy V

Classic indication of a leaking water pump.

Get to it soon before it contaminates the entire timing belt system.

Also, did you replace the short hose off the heater core valve? That one is often overlooked but easy to replace.

mkriete

Thanks, I was afraid of that. The TB was on my To Do list, but I was putting it off (I have a non-interference engine and the PO had replaced it fairly recently). Sounds like I'll have to delay painting another year.

By the way, I have an '80 US with a Rogerbox. I forgot you can't see the signature in mobile Rennlist.

I did replace the short hose at the heater valve.

mkriete

The hose appeared dry. Is the side tank seal a rebuilt possibility, or would I need to replace the Rad?

MainePorsche

Rebuilt seals are a possibility.
A new CSF radiator from Roger or Mark is also a possibility.
Search, and look into one.