setting new cam gears
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
setting new cam gears
Hey all,
Everything is all built up for the TB/WP completion. Using new gears with Crank set at 45* position the cam gears 3 teeth to the right of the timing mark. All goes together well,
I have the porken 32V timing tool coming in the next few days, so I doing a dry run.
Question is....
There is about a 2 tooth variance in the cam gear slots.
Where do I start? If for some reason I am off by 2 teeth and rotate, will I crash the valves?
This has been a long project with many surprises. But i am digging it.
I read in the 32V directions that 2 of the bolt slots on the cam gear should be roughly centered.
I got that and both gears are now lined up.
Is it safe to rotate through?
thanks
Everything is all built up for the TB/WP completion. Using new gears with Crank set at 45* position the cam gears 3 teeth to the right of the timing mark. All goes together well,
I have the porken 32V timing tool coming in the next few days, so I doing a dry run.
Question is....
There is about a 2 tooth variance in the cam gear slots.
Where do I start? If for some reason I am off by 2 teeth and rotate, will I crash the valves?
This has been a long project with many surprises. But i am digging it.
I read in the 32V directions that 2 of the bolt slots on the cam gear should be roughly centered.
I got that and both gears are now lined up.
Is it safe to rotate through?
thanks
#2
Rennlist Member
With the crank set at 45 degrees BTDC you mount the cam wheels so that they sit roughly in the middle of the adjustment range. The cams should then be positioned such that the mark on the cam wheel is three teeth before it would arrive adjacent to the timing notch on the case. With the cams in this position you thread the belt. You may have to get someone to hold the cams in position with a [27mm?] wrench over the big hex washer [do not move the cams using the locking bolt].
If you have the 32VR tool arriving I would wait until you receive it and then do the cam timing with the tool mounted on the 45 degree setting. Once that has been done you can then remove the flywheel locking tool and forward the engine to TDC where the marks on the cam wheel should align with the notch on the back casing. If they do not align then something is wrong.
Not quite sure how to interpret your note- perhaps you can offer some clarity on the bit about "two teeth" out. There is no logical reason why you should be two teeth out but I understand it is quite easy to get the cam belt off by one tooth. Have you tightened the cam belt adjuster yet?
I would not turn the motor from the 45 BTDC position if I could not explain what is going on. You would probably have no problems moving the motor to the TDC position but I would not take it beyond that position without understanding what is going on. Perhaps you can post some pics to show what is going on.
Regards
Fred
If you have the 32VR tool arriving I would wait until you receive it and then do the cam timing with the tool mounted on the 45 degree setting. Once that has been done you can then remove the flywheel locking tool and forward the engine to TDC where the marks on the cam wheel should align with the notch on the back casing. If they do not align then something is wrong.
Not quite sure how to interpret your note- perhaps you can offer some clarity on the bit about "two teeth" out. There is no logical reason why you should be two teeth out but I understand it is quite easy to get the cam belt off by one tooth. Have you tightened the cam belt adjuster yet?
I would not turn the motor from the 45 BTDC position if I could not explain what is going on. You would probably have no problems moving the motor to the TDC position but I would not take it beyond that position without understanding what is going on. Perhaps you can post some pics to show what is going on.
Regards
Fred
#3
Former Sponsor
Hey all,
Everything is all built up for the TB/WP completion. Using new gears with Crank set at 45* position the cam gears 3 teeth to the right of the timing mark. All goes together well,
I have the porken 32V timing tool coming in the next few days, so I doing a dry run.
Question is....
There is about a 2 tooth variance in the cam gear slots.
Where do I start? If for some reason I am off by 2 teeth and rotate, will I crash the valves?
This has been a long project with many surprises. But i am digging it.
I read in the 32V directions that 2 of the bolt slots on the cam gear should be roughly centered.
I got that and both gears are now lined up.
Is it safe to rotate through?
thanks
Everything is all built up for the TB/WP completion. Using new gears with Crank set at 45* position the cam gears 3 teeth to the right of the timing mark. All goes together well,
I have the porken 32V timing tool coming in the next few days, so I doing a dry run.
Question is....
There is about a 2 tooth variance in the cam gear slots.
Where do I start? If for some reason I am off by 2 teeth and rotate, will I crash the valves?
This has been a long project with many surprises. But i am digging it.
I read in the 32V directions that 2 of the bolt slots on the cam gear should be roughly centered.
I got that and both gears are now lined up.
Is it safe to rotate through?
thanks
Just make sure the cam bolts are tight, turn it to TDC, and confirm that the marks line up on the pointed edges on the seal retainer casting.
#4
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I had set the cams to the position you suggested. The middle of the range. I was trying to describe how there was a 2 tooth range in the adjustment from one end to the other. I got the belt on and all marks are as prescribed.
This is without the cam bolts torqued down yet. Is now the time to do that? Or should I wait and just snug them until timing is complete with the 32V tool?
Does anyone have a cam profile description when the cams are at a certain position.
The 968 has a cardboard type go/no-go tool that checks the #1 cam lobes at TDC.
I am starting to get really excited..lol
The motor has been out and untouched and three house moves in 2 years.
The sad part, is that the motor probably wont last long. The crank travel is well past the limits. So this is basically practice until I get the new motor. It was running well before I pulled it though.
I will set the torque shaft and flex plate accordingly and see how long i get out of it.
thnx for responding..
This is without the cam bolts torqued down yet. Is now the time to do that? Or should I wait and just snug them until timing is complete with the 32V tool?
Does anyone have a cam profile description when the cams are at a certain position.
The 968 has a cardboard type go/no-go tool that checks the #1 cam lobes at TDC.
I am starting to get really excited..lol
The motor has been out and untouched and three house moves in 2 years.
The sad part, is that the motor probably wont last long. The crank travel is well past the limits. So this is basically practice until I get the new motor. It was running well before I pulled it though.
I will set the torque shaft and flex plate accordingly and see how long i get out of it.
thnx for responding..
#5
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thanks Greg,
That oil pump gear looks new!!
I will post pix of how trashed all 4 of the gears were. CRAZY BAD!! The belt looked good tho.
That oil pump gear looks new!!
I will post pix of how trashed all 4 of the gears were. CRAZY BAD!! The belt looked good tho.
#6
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
before I turn it...
Since it has been so long, should I take the cam bearing caps off one at a time an coat with assembly lube before I turn?
Since it has been so long, should I take the cam bearing caps off one at a time an coat with assembly lube before I turn?
#7
Rennlist Member
As I understand the cam wheels could be 1 tooth out either direction and nothing will touch - not that I recommend trying it to find out.
So this is the TBF'd motor- wondered what had happened to it. It will be interesting to see what happens. The motor originally in my GTS had something in excess of 1mm end float when I was offered the car and it was still running. Felt as sick as a dog mind you.
Best wishes
Fred
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#10
Rennlist Member
It will be rather messy if it grenades but at least you are game for a laugh!
I will be delighted for you if it runs for ever like that.
Fred
#11
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
i mean in relation to the crank hitting all of the correct marks?
It feels like I am on a first date. really cant wait to roll it through
It feels like I am on a first date. really cant wait to roll it through
#12
Rennlist Member
With the crank locked at 45 BTDC the cams should both be in this position (the white witness marks on the gear and the backing plate in the picture should be lined up) relative to the timing marks on the belt housing backing plates. Notice the wide notch on the perimeter of the cam gear in the left of the image. The timing mark is on the back perimeter of the cam gear opposite that wide notch. As long as both cam gears are in this relative position on their respective sides and the threaded holes on the cam spiders for mounting the rotors are about in the center of the slots in the cam gears you are good to go with rotating the motor to TDC and verifying all the timing marks line up. Once you go around a few turns and verify the marks all still line up at TDC you are a go for setting the cam timing via dial indicator or PK32VR.
Mike
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Mike
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