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FWIW info.. if you fit a different cross brace then you should understand that the bolt height is critical .thus so is the end fitting thickness.
Most of the new link swaps I have seen have new bolts that are also higher profile than the factory short heads.
NOTE any swaps should also include the use of factory short profile bolts and possibly include washer removal.
IF Not
The result will be the tops of the bolt heads will begin to abrade the hood rail and remove the paint this will become worse when the hood is pressed down because its bulging at the cross link bolts, BTDT.
This ruins an otherwise perfect under hood paint job.
NOTE it is also possible to slightly change the mounting height of the anchor points.
this is done with a block of wood and sledge hammer,
Remove cross brace,
put the wood on the anchor and hit a few times to drive the anchor down,
this will move the anchor a few MMs and thus increase the clearance.
NOTE some of the cars have bent anchor points,
they will bend upwards this due to hitting potholes and having loose anchor bolts
Low profile button heads are available, so that may save the day on a waterjet tab. Machining would be ideal, but think that it could be a little price. Waterjet tabs are coming in around $6 each. My guess is the machined tabs would be closer to $15/each. I can send out a file and see though. I wanted to keep the entire design well under $100.
Low profile button heads are available, so that may save the day on a waterjet tab. Machining would be ideal, but think that it could be a little price. Waterjet tabs are coming in around $6 each. My guess is the machined tabs would be closer to $15/each. I can send out a file and see though. I wanted to keep the entire design well under $100.
Thanks
Hans
Nice piece you have there, Hans.
FWIW, I'm using button head bolts on my (928 MS) cross brace that I've had installed for a few years. Cross brace is about 7 mm thick at the ends; the button head plus washer adds another 7 mm. Works just fine.
Here it is installed (still with printed tabs until I settle on the right offset). I think I am going to push the rod-end mounts towards the center-line of the car another 2mm just to add a bit more clearance and to reduce more visible thread for cosmetic purposes. This did fit without problems with a misalignment washer installed under the rod end. Moving it another 2mm will allow use of the washer with even a poorly aligned hood, or it can be removed (no real need) and there is tons of clearance. I am tweaking the mount to remove some unnecessary material to give room for more intake tubing configurations.
Here it is installed (still with printed tabs until I settle on the right offset). I think I am going to push the rod-end mounts towards the center-line of the car another 2mm just to add a bit more clearance and to reduce more visible thread for cosmetic purposes. This did fit without problems with a misalignment washer installed under the rod end. Moving it another 2mm will allow use of the washer with even a poorly aligned hood, or it can be removed (no real need) and there is tons of clearance. I am tweaking the mount to remove some unnecessary material to give room for more intake tubing configurations.
Looks like a different kind of configuration. Carls looks like it can keep twisting forces at bay, and compression and extension. this one will rotate in the ball if the shock towers are twisting . Also, under compression, will those two little bolts keep the towers from moving inwards?
i dont see much a difference. the square tubing "theoretically" would work better twisting bu, . any twisting over that long of a span, would happen either way. then, that much a a twist in that brace would be the least of your concerns. thous little bolts are the same diameter and looks to be height while comprised. slots look the same. so if you think they are an issue, porsche sure did not. looks like the would match up fine with the stock unit. compression and extension are likewise not much of an issue, being when tightened, its one solid rod.
The slots really arent necessary. They could be 10.5mm holes to keep the plates rigidly mounted to the chassis. Only problem there is porsche had some lousy quality control on the placement of the support brackets, so you would not be able to "square" the mounting plate up with the fender. However, the single-pivot rod-end configuration would allow for you to install in a rigid fashion without having parallel mounts. The waterjet cut plates are very inexpensive. Would be very easy to have a "rigid mount" version.
Its just a simple project because I ran across all the stuff to build it when I was looking around for something else. Schnell has been offering a similar bar for years, but I dont personally like carbon fiber braces.
10-16-2015, 09:57 AM
