Cleaning the Valley - any benefit outside of cleanliness and OCD avoidance?
10-06-2015, 02:25 PM
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Cleaning the Valley - any benefit outside of cleanliness and OCD avoidance?
Title pretty much says it all. My valley is a bit messy and it's driving me a bit loco.
Was thinking about leaving the legs on and just removing the intake distributor so I could get down in and give a good scrub, but am wondering if I'm introducing too much risk for little real gain.
Do I need to talk myself out of this?
Was thinking about leaving the legs on and just removing the intake distributor so I could get down in and give a good scrub, but am wondering if I'm introducing too much risk for little real gain.
Do I need to talk myself out of this?
10-06-2015, 02:42 PM
#2
Archive Gatekeeper
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No.
10-06-2015, 03:08 PM
#3
Rennlist Member
Might find some long lost bits
10-06-2015, 08:26 PM
#4
Race Car
Peace of mind...reduced weight (naw just kidding- I hope).
Less likelihood of flammables lingering under there, less likelihood of solvents/caustics and grit that might speed deterioration of rubber bits through erosion or abrasion, less material that could get ingested if a vacuum leak does occur, or a if someone else does work on the car in the future.
But yes, I'd say "reasonably clean" is subjective.
Leaving the runners and doing a clean up seems like a reasonable plan to me, good time to check/inspect as a precaution.
Less likelihood of flammables lingering under there, less likelihood of solvents/caustics and grit that might speed deterioration of rubber bits through erosion or abrasion, less material that could get ingested if a vacuum leak does occur, or a if someone else does work on the car in the future.
But yes, I'd say "reasonably clean" is subjective.
Leaving the runners and doing a clean up seems like a reasonable plan to me, good time to check/inspect as a precaution.
10-06-2015, 08:37 PM
#5
Chronic Tool Dropper
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Reasons to do it:
Helps maintain fixer sanity. Much easier to identify leaks and vacuum hose failure and wiring failure and leaking fuel line failures and such... if you can actually see the parts.
Most rubber bits like hoses don't like to swim in oil -- accelerates aging. Aging is usually hidden by the oil slime though.
Wiring is jacketed in PVC insulation, which desn't particularly enjoy oil or fuel baths.
Note that all the plastic and rubber stuff in the valley (and elsewhere on the engine) particularly dislikes brake cleaner. This stuff is primarily acetone these days, blended with a small amount of a higher-boiling solvent to slow evaporation. I know folks swear by brake cleaner as the ultimate convenient cleaner, while I know it to be marvelous life-limiter for the car parts and their owners.
Simple Green is OK for most deposits in the valley. I found a handy degreaser at Home Depot that's d-limonene in a spray bottle. The Goo-Gone Grill Cleaner from the same place is a non-caustic degreaser that should be acceptable for aluminum and plastic stuff. Regardless of what you decide to use, you'll want to carefully rinse out any residue and get everything thoroughly dry. Where there are sensors or connectors, shield them with Saran Wrap or similar to keep the chems and the rinse water out. Disassemble and blow-dry any electrical stuff that gets wet.
-----
I'm a firm believer in keeping the engine bay clean enough that you can put your sandwich down anywhere in there without worry. On the way to that, a very mild pH-neutral detergent spray instantly dulled and then discolored the original silver finish on my intake and cam covers. Couldn't get it off quickly enough.
Another time I managed to get some rinse water on the temp switch at the top of the intake. Within a few weeks I needed a new switch --- the original was keeping the fans running while parked. Those are my only two downside experiences with washing 928 engines.
James M's Euro85 Project car lived at my house for several months, during which it casually received a front-of-engine cleaning and a timing belt replacement. I experimented with some diluted Orange Cleaner for that, mostly since I had to recover all the rinse water and not send anything down the hill into the neighbors' driveways. Always better to live near the top of the hill, but there is a Golden Rule on sharing waste products.
Helps maintain fixer sanity. Much easier to identify leaks and vacuum hose failure and wiring failure and leaking fuel line failures and such... if you can actually see the parts.
Most rubber bits like hoses don't like to swim in oil -- accelerates aging. Aging is usually hidden by the oil slime though.
Wiring is jacketed in PVC insulation, which desn't particularly enjoy oil or fuel baths.
Note that all the plastic and rubber stuff in the valley (and elsewhere on the engine) particularly dislikes brake cleaner. This stuff is primarily acetone these days, blended with a small amount of a higher-boiling solvent to slow evaporation. I know folks swear by brake cleaner as the ultimate convenient cleaner, while I know it to be marvelous life-limiter for the car parts and their owners.
Simple Green is OK for most deposits in the valley. I found a handy degreaser at Home Depot that's d-limonene in a spray bottle. The Goo-Gone Grill Cleaner from the same place is a non-caustic degreaser that should be acceptable for aluminum and plastic stuff. Regardless of what you decide to use, you'll want to carefully rinse out any residue and get everything thoroughly dry. Where there are sensors or connectors, shield them with Saran Wrap or similar to keep the chems and the rinse water out. Disassemble and blow-dry any electrical stuff that gets wet.
-----
I'm a firm believer in keeping the engine bay clean enough that you can put your sandwich down anywhere in there without worry. On the way to that, a very mild pH-neutral detergent spray instantly dulled and then discolored the original silver finish on my intake and cam covers. Couldn't get it off quickly enough.
Another time I managed to get some rinse water on the temp switch at the top of the intake. Within a few weeks I needed a new switch --- the original was keeping the fans running while parked. Those are my only two downside experiences with washing 928 engines.James M's Euro85 Project car lived at my house for several months, during which it casually received a front-of-engine cleaning and a timing belt replacement. I experimented with some diluted Orange Cleaner for that, mostly since I had to recover all the rinse water and not send anything down the hill into the neighbors' driveways. Always better to live near the top of the hill, but there is a Golden Rule on sharing waste products.
10-06-2015, 11:08 PM
#6
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thanks for all the input guys. I think this will be going on my winter list, as I'm hoping to get her out before winter comes.
You all are the best...thanks for taking the time to chime in.
You all are the best...thanks for taking the time to chime in.
10-07-2015, 12:59 AM
#7
Rennlist Member
Clean it! Just don't do what I did- cleaned the hell out of it then broke off a oil filler fitting and spewed oil all over the pristine surface right after putting it all together. Bummer...
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10-07-2015, 02:08 AM
#9
Three Wheelin'
Chalkboss has an S4. no spider legs. on a 16V its possible to see down in there easy, while on the S4 its not. a cleaner engine will run cooler too. Best to keep it clean/tidy so if there are issues/leaks there you can see them.