Hatch lock?
#16
Electron Wrangler
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No. It still operates, so it is not yet broken. Once the crack finishes growing, and prevents the lock from operating, it will then, be officially broken. I've since purchased a brand new lock w/o electric latch, key, grommet, bolts, and washers. I've also, since posting, welded the crack and now have a original electric (which I will save) and a manual latch which is being installed.
There is no electric opener upper hatch latch - no such thing ever existed. There is a non-alarm upper latch mechanism and an alarm upper latch mechanism. They have nothing really to do with the manual Vs electric hatch opener because you can have all combinations:
- Non-alarm manual only hatch opener
- Non-alarm remote electric hatch opener
- Alarm manual only hatch opener
- Alarm remote electric hatch opener
Worry about the alarm hatch upper only if you have a functional alarm - and even then you could live without it and still have a hatch protected by the alarm (just not switched by the hatch key).
If you don't have a functional alarm then an alarm upper hatch latch has no value to you over the non-alarm version - it performs no other function - except perhaps to break more easily...
Alan
#18
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Thread Starter
My reference to "electric latch" is meant to describe the cylinder with the three wires running from it. We are clear on that those wires actuate the alarm, correct? The hatch release operates on what part of the mechanism?
#19
Nordschleife Master
#20
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Hypothetically speaking, If someone were trying to sell me their 928 and told me that they knew ever square inch of it and that "nothing is broken" then upon my inspection I find the hatch latch male component in the condition your's is obviously in, I would conclude that they are either a liar or stupid, or maybe even both.
But that is probably just me "being Jerry."
#21
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For the hatch lock - only the lower receiver is different between electric remote pull release and manual (key) only release for the hatch. The electric remote release only works if a door is open (safety interlock), so for that the alarm has to already be disarmed (at least in any normal case) - so no need for any interaction with the alarm state when opening.
The lower remote release receiver has a cam operated by the (separate) hatch release motor - this allows the upper latching tang to be depressed past the latch plate to allow release. Otherwise the only other function of the receiver is the hatch open switch integrated into the bottom, this is present on both types - this is how the alarm and interior lights know the hatch is open.
Alan
#22
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Thread Starter
Thank you, Alan. This is exactly what I would expect from a forum of individuals (who are not judged by anything but their contributions) that endeavor to help others.
As for Jerry, if you read the posts and could manage to get out of your own head for a minute, my latch is no longer broken (as you put it) as I welded it (and HEREBY OFFER THAT SAME SERVICE TO ANYONE AT NO COST). No-body in my house is trying to sell you anything, by the way. The belong I referred to is the "say stupid sh t and try to get a rise because I'm bored club" of which you obviously belong.
Step away from the keyboard, take a ride in your 928, go home, take your meds, and get a good nights sleep.
By the way, for all of you that have the broken pot metal latch problem, SERIOUSLY, I had a stack of welding rods I picked up in Kentucky back in 97 and have used them from time to time. I dont remember their compound, but it works wonders on a variety of metals and especially pot metals. I will do a repair free of charge if you need it and choose to send the part to me.
On another note, I have two blue consoles, some hatch interior panels and assorted other items (as well as the tan quarter panel covers) available to those that might want/need them.
Alan, again, Thank you as you answered my question in a VERY MATURE FASHION.
As for Jerry, if you read the posts and could manage to get out of your own head for a minute, my latch is no longer broken (as you put it) as I welded it (and HEREBY OFFER THAT SAME SERVICE TO ANYONE AT NO COST). No-body in my house is trying to sell you anything, by the way. The belong I referred to is the "say stupid sh t and try to get a rise because I'm bored club" of which you obviously belong.
Step away from the keyboard, take a ride in your 928, go home, take your meds, and get a good nights sleep.
By the way, for all of you that have the broken pot metal latch problem, SERIOUSLY, I had a stack of welding rods I picked up in Kentucky back in 97 and have used them from time to time. I dont remember their compound, but it works wonders on a variety of metals and especially pot metals. I will do a repair free of charge if you need it and choose to send the part to me.
On another note, I have two blue consoles, some hatch interior panels and assorted other items (as well as the tan quarter panel covers) available to those that might want/need them.
Alan, again, Thank you as you answered my question in a VERY MATURE FASHION.
#24
Burning Brakes
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Victoria, B.C. Canada
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Humor we all have....but different.
Nice to know the upper piece can be welded tho for other to try and save.
Cracked, worn, fractured, damaged, bent are all usable to a point before it breaks but also can be defined as broken?
I replaced mine with a non-alarm and still kept my "broken" one in my " cracked, worn, fractured and damaged pile"
Nice to know the upper piece can be welded tho for other to try and save.
Cracked, worn, fractured, damaged, bent are all usable to a point before it breaks but also can be defined as broken?
I replaced mine with a non-alarm and still kept my "broken" one in my " cracked, worn, fractured and damaged pile"