WALTSTAR

I just discovered that my upper hatch lock is about to break and I need a new one to interface with the electric lock release mechanism.
Anybody have one to trade or for sale?

Jerry Feather

How can you tell that it "is about to break" if it hasn't already?

Just curious.

The way that I can tell that someone else's is "about to break" is when I watch them let the hatch drop and slam into position latching itself. I have found that the best way to close the hatch is to carefully let it down by hand until it rests in position just above latching, then give is a slight but firm push into position to latch.

This component is rare and expensive. Good luck with your search.

Alan

Yes - Hens teeth indeed - you will need to be very lucky to find one. As Jim noted recently - even in an alarm car you can live without the alarm upper latch. Replacement (new) non-alarm version are much cheaper. The rear hatch opening will still sound the alarm. All you lose with the regular top latch/lock is the ability to control the alarm from the lock. If you unlock the doors before opening the hatch - everything works normally (if not you will sound the alarm - if armed). You also of course cannot set the alarm from the hatch - but who really does that anyway...?

Replacing the latch with a new (non-alarm) one also means you have a new latch - not a 25 year old replacement that may already be pre-stressed for failure.

Personally I think the biggest risk issue with upper latches is having them poorly aligned or operating them without a latch receiver insert (or with a disintegrated one). However Jerry's suggestion is good insurance too.

If your alarm isn't actually functional - the answer is very easy...

Alan

WALTSTAR

The cast metal housing has a crack along one side that is translating to the other side. Cracks usually indicate immanent failure. I am of the ilk that doesn't slam anything, so that wouldn't be a problem with me.

ReDesign by FEATHER

So, It's already broken! Now I understand.

hacker-pschorr

With functioning hatch shocks in the early cars, I have to force the hatch down and push it closed.

First item I bought for the S4 was new hatch / hood shocks. Even then, the weight of the spoiler will bring the hatch crashing down without much effort when closing. Learned that one really quick to keep my hands on it.

928Myles

WALTSTAR
I am in the final stage of producing a replacement alarm hatch body from stainless steel. These will be available through 928's Rus.

Myles

Alan

Does your stock alarm actually work? If it doesn't - do you intend to repair the stock alarm?

The upper hatch alarm latch /lock is not a requirement for the electric hatch opener to work... In fact they are mostly unrelated functions.

Alan

ROG100

The best choice until Myles finishes production of the replacement assemblies is to use a none alarm lock with a random key for $157.

WALTSTAR

No. It still operates, so it is not yet broken. Once the crack finishes growing, and prevents the lock from operating, it will then, be officially broken. I've since purchased a brand new lock w/o electric latch, key, grommet, bolts, and washers. I've also, since posting, welded the crack and now have a original electric (which I will save) and a manual latch which is being installed.

Jerry Feather

So, I guess when you break you arm it isn't really broken til it falls off.

WALTSTAR

Someone must be bored. this is the kind of infantile exchange that drives people away from grown people forums.

WALTSTAR

Inversely, your brain might not be broken, yet it still might not work.
Do I belong now?

James Bailey

when the post is cracked on one side it really does not secure the rear hatch very well...allows the post to twist and the hatch to rather easily be forced open....the cracking on the passenger side is common...for the alarm switch capable locks.

hacker-pschorr

Jerry is just being........well.....Jerry

If you cannot handle that kind of reply to a comment, please for the love of God never start a thread on the following:

1. Torque
2. Clutches
3. Transmissions
4. Anything involving lubricants