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I can certainly see the point about cleanliness. Before doing this service, I used a 110 mph air blast.
I have a hand pump, but thought the pictured method might be better - pretty simple. It would have worked pretty well with larger tubing without anti-kinking ribs. I need to form the dispensing end into a hook shape - I'll tape some 12-gage copper wire to it.
An issue for doing it cold is that the "cold" line is at the bottom of the view window, so I have no idea how much fluid to add. It's become an iterative thing - not good to have the reservoir cap off with the engine running, right? Not done yet.
Curt,
Not a problem to have the cap off while running. The transmission pump sucks fluid from the pan, and hence the reservoir, into circulation. If you go this route fill the reservoir till high at MIN line. Once you start engine you'll see it drop. Give some more until car is at operating temp, then add in small aliquots until full. The process does take time. Important to let the fluid heat and expand to get 'right' reading at MIN/MAX lines.
Sorry, I'm on my phone and don't have access to images. It is on the right side to the front of the unit. It is a hexagonal piece about 2 inches in length and should be facing downward. This is the cover that you would simply wrench off. Under it is the fill shaft. It must remain facing the ground for it is a ball check valve. Attach your hose and fill with some pressure behind it. Craig
Found a description and pic of the location. Where the hose is being fitted to, the cover has already been screwed off. Like I had said earlier, I squeegeed a clear plasticine hose tightly over the connector and used a hand pump directly from a bottle of ATF for the pressure.
...Like I had said earlier, I squeegeed a clear plasticine hose tightly over the connector and used a hand pump directly from a bottle of ATF for the pressure.
Or you can use the appropriate connector.
Nice job Vector.
Advantage to the quick-fill connector for convenience and removing the possibility of contamination with the reservoir cap removed. Focus then moves to your fill equipment, be it a hand pump or the bug-spray pump. If there's --ANY-- contamination in those, you are pumping that directly into the workings. No crud screen at the reservoir neck, and may or may not all go to the sump where it would have to pass through the trans filter before anywhere else. One of the transmission experts might comment on the actual point of introduction into the transmission circuits.
Regardless of the fill method you choose, giving the transmission and surrounding area a good bath first is helpful in many ways. It makes it possible to see the level in the reservoir (a plus...), and a clean gearbox makes it possible to immediately notice if there are any leaks, and if so where they are coming from. More than a few trans problem threads here start off with 'shifting problem' or 'slippage' or 'flares between gears', and end up with a discovery that the fluid level was a little low, the fluid hasn't been changed, etc. Folks lose track of the fact that the factory service interval for the transmission fluid is 25k. If you drive your car 'aggressively', or any other severe service description including stop-and-go traffic, that interval should be cut in half. I put three or four thousand miles a year on my car on average, so it gets a major trans fluid service every three years or less. The filter/gasket kit and good fluid cost under $100 per event, and it's logged as very economical PM in the giant scheme of 928 ownership costs. Costs of ignoring this service can be, um, substantial. Fringe benefit: an excuse to sanitize the whole rear undercarriage again.
09-24-2015, 08:06 AM
