Adk46

I'm so easily flummoxed. This morning I'm stumped on checking my transmission fluid level. There are supposed to be three lines, I've read, but I don't see any, front or rear.

The level appears to be 3/4 up the reservoir, though I know that means little (engine not running). I'm also perplexed on how I'm supposed to see it while the engine is running with the car on the ground - the view is blocked by an exhaust pipe.

Where should the level be, engine running, in neutral, not hot?



Aft looking forward.



Forward looking aft.

joejoe

2nd picture shows check lines. Should be checked warm and level.

MainePorsche

Yes, on the forward looking aft in the indent there are 3 lines MAX - MIN when fluid hot at the top and some number (20 deg ?) ambient temperature lower down. You want the to read when at operating temp up high. Give a good cleaning in the indent for they are faint and hard to see.

davek9

Yes and this needs to be checked w/ engine running and as said hot.

The best way to do it is on a lift, clean the entire area as you will need to remover the cap to add fluid and look for leaks, *** place foot on brake *** whenever you move in or out of gear and or park to stop the wheels from spinning.

You will need some sort of fluid pump to fill the reservoir or a long tube from the wheel well.

This can also be done with four jack stands and lying on your back, but remember the car must be level.

Adk46

Thanks, all. My research suggests that it is better to do it with the engine just warming up, for which "full" is the lowest line. I have not looked, but apparently that is what the WSM says. Of course, at some point the engine is no longer warming up....

Oh boy - under the lift with the engine running. I think I have a phobia....

MainePorsche

If you have trustworthy stands, and it is level, it shouldn't be a problem. Get it up and level, start it and let it idle to operating temp. Will give you time to determine its reliability. I keep mind filled to in-between the MIN-MAX lines when at operating temp.

Adk46

OK, it is very low. I have a bottle of fluid strung up on a light stand, a bit of tubing siphoning into the reservoir, slowly. Medical oxygen tubing, which was a poor choice since it has internal ribs to prevent kinking, so I can't clamp it off.

My rough shifting might be cured....

MainePorsche

Curt,
You could get one these. The big one on a 5 gal Lowes buck for the reservoir, or the little one for the reservoir or fill port. The little one goes each quart bottle of ATF.

DG84S

I use an old railroad type oiling can with a flexible neck and thumb-lever pump for topping-off AT fluid. It holds about a quart. I think I bought it at Harbor Freight. I am able to check fluid level and add fluid without jackstands or lifts. My 928 sits at factory height.

ihoe

I use a small electric oil pump like this connected to the filler port. Works perfect.

Hold On

That's what I have been using. Seems to work well but I usually check with car on lift....cause I can.

NoVector

Ref the workshop manual “… let engine run at idle speed 1 to 2 minutes before checking fluid level so that torque converter will be full. ATF level can be checked on a cold or warm transmission. However, the level will be more accurate on a cold transmission (20-30C/68-86F). An ATF temperature of 80 C/176 F can only be guesstimated.” 38-2

ihoe

I think the WSM has a good point on the guesstimated hot temp. But I have read other places in Porsche documents that they recommend to do it hot. So it is not easy to know what is best. I have done it cold and just rechecked at hot.

dr bob

Curt--

I've been in the habit of checking the level on the floor using a bathroom magnifying makeup mirror, the kind that has a wire bail stand. Worklight on the floor near it facing towards the reservoir makes the marks and level more easily visible.

To add fluid, I use one of those little hand pumps like the smaller one that MainePorsche shows. Those come from the auto parts store, and screw directly onto the Mobil-1 ATF quart bottle, and also onto a Castrol ATF gallon. I add a longer piece of pump discharge hose (clear vinyl from Home Depot) and loop it with a wire tie over the exhaust pipe that's trying to block your view. So the bottle(s) sit outside the rear wheel where it's easier to pump, and I get to look in the magnifying mirror to monitor reservoir level while filling.

Note that cleanliness is extremely important whenever the filler cap is off. Prior to any serious service, I spend some time with a can of engine cleaner back there, getting everything white-glove clean before any service. Crud and junk hang out above that filler, where Edsel Murphy waits until you remove the filler cap before kicking chunks into the reservoir. It's as reliable as sunrise really.

At some point I'll locate a QD fitting that mates with that factory-fill fitting that sticks down at the right front corner. Along with that electric pump that Ihoe shows, it would be way too easy to fill the gearbox with no worries of contamination or spillage. I'm due for a service in the next year, so I should probably start a casual search now.

MainePorsche

dr bob makes a good point - cleanliness is ESSENTIAL.
Get even small amount of crud into the valve body and trouble will ensue.
I used to use the curved tube shown above through the reservoir, but now fill directly through the fill port with the small hand pump. Better for two reasons - First, no danger of soilage into the fluid by having the reservoir cap off. Second, you add the fluid directly into the workings of the transmission. When your empty and add through the reservoir it is not completely through the 'workings', and when running to fill you are running transmission and torque converter without complete lubrication. I add about 4-5 liters through the fill port - start the engine - and top off transmission and torque converter while running to just under MAX line.

Those clear plasticine fill hoses squeegee right tight onto the fill port.