When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
summarized very well. my money is on the injectors, bad TEMP II, its really hard to make it too rich with too much fuel pressure. the 02 sensor could chop that up a little . the fact that it runs poorly when the 02 sensor is disconnected, might point to the injectors, or maybe ECU.
Originally Posted by ltoolio
As a n00b here who most certainly does not know everything and who tries to learn from the guys who know a hell of a lot more than I do (and apparently repeats themselves over and over), I wanted to document what I think I understand from this post so I know how to handle the situation should it ever occur on my '82:
Issue:
- OP has observed his '81 running rich, as evidenced by the burning eyes sensation he gets via the exhaust. This is experienced both at Idle and with Throttle.
- OP has requested information about "resetting" the idle screws as a possible resolution.
Troubleshooting by OP:
- OP has stated that he has done all the "obvious stuff", as mentioned in Rant Post #8.
Suggestions from (helpful) community:
- Idle screws only impact idle speed and AFM at idle. Therefore, this should have no bearing on the fact that the car is seeming running rich under throttle.
- Temp 2 sensor could be causing the rich condition if it is faulty, as it could be calling for a richer mixture even if the car/coolant is hot. It was suggested that resistance readings could be helpful, but they may have been covered in the Obvious Stuff already.
- O2 sensor could be the problem
- WOT switch could be causing the issue if it is faulty. Testing is detailed in Helpful Post 10.
- Leaking Injectors or too high of a Fuel Pressure.
- Possibly a bad ECU
- A Wide-Band Analyzer could provide more concrete numbers for analysis.
Summary:
- The original request of Idle Screw Resetting should have nothing to do with the underlying issue of the car running rich under all conditions.
- The answer might lie somewhere in the suggestions listed which are not in the intersecting portion of the attached Venn Diagram and are not in the "Obvious Stuff"
I have done the following to this car to try to fix the running rich issue.
changed plugs and wires-no change
checked firing order-all good
tested vacuum advance-holds vacuum
checked all fuses and relays-all good
checked /cleaned all grounds- done
checked 14 pin connector- all sorted
checked timing-23* btdc @ 3000 rpm warm motor
changed all vacuum lines and tested for proper intake vacuum-all good now
had injectors cleaned flowed-no change
swapped Ljet brains with a known working one-no change
swapped AFM with a good one-no change
had my original AFM tested by kevin in arizona-no change
tested the aux air valve for proper function-works fine
tested csv for leaking-works fine
tested fuel pressure and fprs-all good
new Green wire installed-no change
tested WOT switch-works fine
tested all sensors for range continuity-all good
tested all continuity at the Ljet Plug-all good
swapped bosch ignition module with another-no change
swapped coil with another one-no change
fuel pump / filter are brand new
tested voltage-13.2V at idle
checked spider boots-all good
ok.. now that you have a list of what ive done... what else could you think my car still runs rich.. black smoke out of the tailpipe at idle and throttle/stinks like raw fuel/ idles horrible and stalls/ all 8 spark plugs are black with soot.. this is a rich condition correct?
i have yet to swap the distributor & cap/rotor as it might be more of a weak ignition issue rather than a running rich issue... fuel pressure was right on and a leak down test went flawlessly also havent messed with the idle screw(im running out of ideas) and i might also remove the o2 sensor to bench test it. i also heard of a guy that said he has seen a temp II sensor read in range but still be bad.. soo i dont know about that but its worth a shot.. hmm
thanks for giving me all the help and tips on how to set the idle screw..
Last edited by Bruno DeSousa; 09-11-2015 at 12:54 PM.
I have done the following to this car to try to fix the running rich issue.
changed plugs and wires-no change
checked firing order-all good
tested vacuum advance-holds vacuum
checked all fuses and relays-all good
checked timing-23* btdc @ 3000 rpm warm motor
changed all vacuum lines and tested for proper intake vacuum-all good now
had injectors cleaned flowed-no change
swapped Ljet brains with a known working one-no change
swapped AFM with a good one-no change
had my original AFM tested by kevin in arizona-no change
tested the aux air valve for proper function-works fine
tested csv for leaking-works fine
tested fuel pressure and fprs-all good
new Green wire installed-no change
tested WOT switch-works fine
tested all sensors for range continuity-all good
tested all continuity at the Ljet Plug-all good
swapped bosch ignition module with another-no change
swapped coil with another one-no change
fuel pump / filter are brand new
tested voltage-13.2V at idle
checked spider boots-all good
ok.. now that you have a list of what ive done... what else could you think my car still runs rich.. black smoke out of the tailpipe at idle and throttle/stinks like raw fuel/ idles horrible and stalls/ all 8 spark plugs are black with soot.. this is a rich condition correct?
i have yet to swap the distributor & cap/rotor as it might be more of a weak ignition issue rather than a running rich issue... fuel pressure was right on and a leak down test went flawlessly also havent messed with the idle screw(im running out of ideas) and i might also remove the o2 sensor to bench test it. i also heard of a guy that said he has seen a temp II sensor read in range but still be bad.. soo i dont know about that but its worth a shot.. hmm
thanks for giving me all the help and tips on how to set the idle screw..
This should have been in your first post.
BTW sorry I was nasty.
Dave
Last edited by j.kenzie@sbcglobal.net; 09-11-2015 at 11:05 AM.
Dang ! You have looked at everything I could have thought of. My only guess at this point is a bad O2 sensor. That seems to be the only item you havn`t checked that would have some control over the A/F ratio. Good luck going forward.
its going to be something stupid i know it.. my buddy had a similar issue on his van... after spending almost $2,000 to try to fix the issue turned out to be a bad distributor cap!!! i still bust his ***** about the most expensive distributor cap ever!
Dang ! You have looked at everything I could have thought of. My only guess at this point is a bad O2 sensor. That seems to be the only item you havn`t checked that would have some control over the A/F ratio. Good luck going forward.
you can run without it, and its not that bad. the fact that when he pulls the 02 wires and it runs bad, is a hint something is wrong
i have tested for continuity at the WOT and idle switch...they seem fine.. with the car idling i click the WOT lever with my finger and the car immediately boggs down.. what else can i do to "test" them besides replacing them with known working ones to see if there is a change?
i have tested for continuity at the WOT and idle switch...they seem fine.. with the car idling i click the WOT lever with my finger and the car immediately boggs down.. what else can i do to "test" them besides replacing them with known working ones to see if there is a change?
thanks
When you're swapping things that are known to be good, are you only doing one thing at a time? Maybe two or more things are wrong, so swapping just one thing at a time hides the problem.
i have tested for continuity at the WOT and idle switch...they seem fine.. with the car idling i click the WOT lever with my finger and the car immediately boggs down.. what else can i do to "test" them besides replacing them with known working ones to see if there is a change?
thanks
With the engine off, you should hear a click when you manually move the throttle even a milimeter. That confirms position and mechanical function. A multimeter will test electrical function.
Dave
09-11-2015, 02:34 AM
