Bruno DeSousa

hwyengr.. changing/testing one item at a time is the proper way to diagnose a problem.. any good mechanic will agree

j.kenzie.. i do hear a click from the idle switch but perhaps i should just replace it anyway.. im all out of ideas

today i swapped cap/rotor - no change
swapped distributor from parts car-no change
checked timing again- its fine
i also went and bought a new Temp II sensor just for the hell of it.. i tested the old one out of the car and got it down to the 270ohm range using a hair dryer..i installed the new tempII sensor anyways..still no change

my last resort before i give up and send the car to the specialist is to remove the O2 sensor and test it to make sure it is working properly.. ive been under the car and noticed the O2 and catalytic conv look like they have been replaced(they look newer) sooo i dont know.. perhaps the PO was chasing the same problem and replaced them? not sure... i am the 4th owner...

the mystery continuessssss.. ahhhhhhhhhhhhohduhoqdwbkdwqbddbkwqddwhdh qwdj9u98y380

hwyengr

But if your coil is bad and your L-Jet is bad, changing only one of them might not fix the problem.

Bruno DeSousa

j.kenzie......ok after reading your last post about the idle switch i went to re-test for continuity...
with the car off i do NOT get a reading on the voltameter from the idle switch...when i reach down and push the lever down with my finger the voltamater reads 3-4ohms.... when i let off it reads nothing... sooooooo now im suspecting that the position of the idle switch is NOT in proper working order... hmmmmmmmmmmmmmm

this could explain the rough idle and stalling BUT could this switch also be my running rich culprit?

thanks for reading!!

Bruno DeSousa

hwyngr... i know your trying to help and i appreciate it BUT when diagnosing a problematic car like the 928 if you start swapping multiple parts out at once you are asking for trouble.. you can ask others the same question.. im almost certain that 1 at a time is the correct way...

hwyengr

What I'm trying to say is that if you know the part you're swapping in is good, why not leave it in until you fix the problem?

If you were 100% sure you only have 1 issue causing your problem, then yes, 1 at a time is the way to go. But as you say, 928s are problematic cars.

But, whatever. Do it your way. Best of luck to your specialist.

j.kenzie@sbcglobal.net

Ok Bruno, it may be nothing, but that switch (the lower switch is the idle switch) should be open or closed, resistance = 0, or resistance = one zillion. Assuming you are measuring across the switch with the leads off, it sounds like you are getting 3-4 ohms with the switch closed. That may mean the switch contacts are corroded. You try jumpering the two leads together, which should simulate a closed switch. The car may not idle well, but may do better off idle. BTW I don't remember whether the switch should be open or closed at idle, so you will need to experiment. If jumpering the switch is helpful, you can probably get one from Roger at 928srus. I haven't tried on this switch, but I have disassembled others and cleaned them. Just in case you can't find one.
Just an idea.
Good luck,
Dave

Bruno DeSousa

i figured with the throttle closed at idle the lower switch should read closer to 0 ohms... as it stands now.. i am not even getting a reading unless i manually push the lever on the switch down... the L-Jet is reading that the throttle switch is not engaged at idle which theoretically can cause a horrible idle and a rich fuel mixture... correct? i will tackle it tomorrow and see if it makes any difference.. im hoping it does!

thanks again!!