Petza914

Thanks a lot - goes pretty good too. BTW, I have a Cousin that lives in Highlands Ranch

Carl Fausett

Just want to mention... the reflective and insulating hood liner is also meant to save the paint on your hood. How many cars have you seen with a badly faded paint area just on their hood? This is caused by engine heat baking the paint from the bottom.

Further - have had two reports of paint jobs saved after engine fires because of our hood liner (which will not burn, unlike foam liners). Sure, they had a mess to sort out once they extinguished the fire, but at least they didn't have to repaint the hood!

ROG100

Factory insulation pad with adhesive already applied is $89.95.
Vacuum off the old foam, wipe any partials from the surface, leave the old adhesive in place as it makes a good primer. Peel and stick, no need to remove the hood.
You are good for another 25 years.

JeffreyDurbin

My 1985 liner is flaking and it's at 33 / 34 years. I'm not sure I can afford 30 cents per year.

Carl Fausett

Fun science experiment: when you remove your old foam (and oil soaked) hood liner, put it in a pile and put a match to it. Recommended: stand back! You will be surprised how flammable they are after 30 years of soaking up oil.

GT6ixer

good point!

GT6ixer

Thanks Roger. I'll take one please. Ship at your convenience.

GT6ixer

I like that characteristic of your hood liner. But I do prefer the waffle look of the original. Right now my hood has zero insulation and the car needs a respray down the line at some point.

ROG100

Thanks Nate - on the way

Geza

$3.00 per year.

I just did this alone, hood on with a factory hood pad - did not attempt to scrape all the old adhesive, just pulled/rubbed away any soft/loose adhesive, mostly around the edges - as previously stated, it makes a good primer/buffer material.

One trick - with a sharp blade, cut the liner/backing down the middle longitudinally and in thirds orthogonal to the initial cut - this way you can pull off each section (6 total) of the liner as you apply/position it. Needless to say, be careful not to cut the foam.

GregBBRD

I can barely get a new hood pad on perfectly straight, with the hood off and upside down....I can't imagine doing this with the hood on.

And leave old adhesive behind?

YACK!

If I did that, I'd be waking up, at night, 10 years from now.

Something to live by for you guys working at home:

"If you wouldn't send what you just did, to the Oakland Roadster Show, it's not good enough."

And something for you guys getting paid to work on these cars:

" I do this to satisfy by own internal needs to make things as perfect as possible." Making people happy and getting paid are just bonuses."

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Petza914

+1

Why half-*** it when it can be done right?

I actually installed mine with the hood in place. I created a plus sign with blue masking tape on the hood pad that overlapped the edges and then test fit it with no adhesive. Once in place, I stuck the overlapping strips to the hood, then used a razor knife to cut them at the junction. This gave me 4 alignment points to use when fitting g the OAS back to the hood after applying the adhesive to both sides and letting it set up. I also use wax paper on the back of the hood pad to keep parts of it from sticking before I'm ready. This let's you line up the multiple points of the taped plus ➕ sign and then stick down only the section you didn't put wax paper on. Once that's done ,you remove one section of wax paper at a time and progressively stick down the rest of it until done.

linderpat

Different data point. I have done this job a few times, both with the hood on and off; scraped clean and with the old adhesive on. I got a perfect and easy alignment on my 85 with the hood on, old glue still in place. Same result with hood off and old glue removed. It makes zero difference, unless like Greg, you obsess about what's underneath (which in most cases is a good thing, but not always)

j.kenzie@sbcglobal.net

Good morning,
Well, now I have done this job both hood on and hood off. It's definitely easier with the hood off. The problem I had was thinking it would be difficult to get the hood on and off. It's easy. After marking the position of the hinges on the open hood, I spread a couple of fabric drop cloths (or blankets) across the engine and fenders. You can then lower the hood nearly all the way and lay the hood on these cloths as is is unbolted, and again reverse the process when you put it back. It's easy to do with just one person this way. The hood itself is light, and it's much easier to position the hood liner on an inverted hood on a flat surface.
Good luck,
Dave