Clutch issue?
#1
Clutch issue?
So yesterday I went to shift and the clutch pedal acted like it went 3/4 of the way to the floor then that last 1/4 I had to push harder to overcome the "notch" to get it to go to the floor. Did it 3 times. Perfect ever since.... Pedals ok, fluids ok, no leaks, return spring looks good.....
Now to day I went around a corner in second, pushed in the clutch and it was real hard that last 1/4 throw... Then slowly let me push it in. Then it's fine....
Wtf??? I'm at a loss...
Now to day I went around a corner in second, pushed in the clutch and it was real hard that last 1/4 throw... Then slowly let me push it in. Then it's fine....
Wtf??? I'm at a loss...
#3
new clutch arm bushing,
throwout has about 6k miles on it
All new Hydraulics with 3k on them, if that, new hoses (Greg's)
new master and slave, not rebuilds
it acted funny again getting on the freeway, then was fine for 20 miles highway and in town....
fingers ont he PP wearing? Throwout has dry spots in it?
throwout has about 6k miles on it
All new Hydraulics with 3k on them, if that, new hoses (Greg's)
new master and slave, not rebuilds
it acted funny again getting on the freeway, then was fine for 20 miles highway and in town....
fingers ont he PP wearing? Throwout has dry spots in it?
#4
did you use the hi temp Porsche spline grease ?
How do you know the TOB has dry spots? What does this mean?
was the MC piston ever modded to lengthen the throw?
FWIW I have had good luck greasing the TOB
its easy of you have the right tools,
NOTE this should be done on a drill press
drill a very small hole into the flange seal of the bearing,
work slowly and dont apply much pressure the drill will do the work,
This so no metal gets pushed into the hole.
NOTE the sharp drill will neatly cut the seal and the metal will come off in one long piece
you need a new sharp drill bit,
a zerk fitting
and the needle from a hypodermic that has an aluminum base,
the needle should be one used for horses so grease will pass through it
screw the zerk fitting into the needle ,
now your grease gun will be able to inject grease into the hole you just drilled .
Once the needle is inside the seal slowly add grease till it comes out the edges,
then wipe the seal face with some brake cleaner ,
then take a dab of silicone sealant and fill the hole.
let cure
FWIW most TOBS wear out due to lack of grease and from water contamination.
How do you know the TOB has dry spots? What does this mean?
was the MC piston ever modded to lengthen the throw?
FWIW I have had good luck greasing the TOB
its easy of you have the right tools,
NOTE this should be done on a drill press
drill a very small hole into the flange seal of the bearing,
work slowly and dont apply much pressure the drill will do the work,
This so no metal gets pushed into the hole.
NOTE the sharp drill will neatly cut the seal and the metal will come off in one long piece
you need a new sharp drill bit,
a zerk fitting
and the needle from a hypodermic that has an aluminum base,
the needle should be one used for horses so grease will pass through it
screw the zerk fitting into the needle ,
now your grease gun will be able to inject grease into the hole you just drilled .
Once the needle is inside the seal slowly add grease till it comes out the edges,
then wipe the seal face with some brake cleaner ,
then take a dab of silicone sealant and fill the hole.
let cure
FWIW most TOBS wear out due to lack of grease and from water contamination.
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#10
a set of gregs headers and a new RMS. clutch went in fine , new grease on the splines and tube, all bolts torqued..... but this really has be curious as i had no issues for 3 weeks.....
just wish i could make it repeatable
just wish i could make it repeatable