tlister67

I have had amazing luck so far getting the previously derelict 1978 euro back on the road after transplanting engine and clutch parts from an 82 parts car. All mechanicals are working and things were looking up. I put 120 km on it but this weekend shifting into rev and 1st got difficult. Lifting the car I can see the clutch was clearly dragging with rear wheels spinning. I measured 14 mm travel at the slave. I bled the clutch today and got about 18mm. No longer dragging. So it appears that air got in the system. I did not measure originally but bled from below with an oil can then and today. I do not see any fluid leaks and all fittings were tight (except the master connection which is too hard to check in place). Any thoughts on this?

mark kibort

sounds like intermediate plate adjustment. have you checked this??????
but if the slave shaft was 14mm and now 18mm, did that 4mm allow for no dragging? if so, is the problem fixed. if not, look at the intermediate plate adjusters to have 1mm gap

tlister67

I have read about the adjustment since doing it according to the wsm. It seems to me that it is hydraulic since I was able to bled it and significantly changes the slave travel. I am worried that I am looking at another loss of travel and shift issues. Since i do not appear to have leaks I was thinking my blue hose if not bled might be a source of air. I was hoping someone has had a similar issue could help. The clutch has low miles as well as much of the other other clutch parts. Master and flexible tube are newish but slave is not.

GlenL

I'd take a look at the pedal pre-load. If there isn't enough slop between pedal and the master then the hydraulic system won't fill from the reservoir. Maybe there's a leak and you had lost action because it wasn't refilling. Or maybe it just had air and needed a bleed.

tlister67

I did back off the preload yesterday. Before measurements I took off the boot so I could see when the rod pushed in. Unfortunately i tried adjusting before realizing I needed to see the plunger. I think it might have had slight preload. I adjusted so there is a slight movement before it engages. I hope that does it. Thanks

tlister67

Took a drive this morning and shifted well until warmed up. Shifted poorly on the way back. Going to look into it later today.

GregBBRD

Check this, first:

If the blue hose is misrouted, it will drop below the level of the clutch master. An air bubble will be trapped in that lower bend of the hose, which will be sucked up when you go around corners, accelerate, and deaccelerate.

Very common problem....virtually everyone makes this mistake, thinking that if they leave the hose long, it must be better!

The hose must run continuously and gradually downhill without dipping below the master cylinder fill port.

The only way it will do this is for the hose to be routed around the power brake booster at the "3:30" position of the booster. (Looking from the front of the booster, as if it is a clock.)

Anyplace other that that is wrong and getting the air out can take weeks of driving, bleeding, driving, bleeding. (If you can eventually get rid of all the air trapped in the section lower than the master, it will work fine....but this can take some serious effort and time.)

tlister67

I dropped the cover and checked an adjuster. Using a drill bit there was about 2mm gap. They all had a significant gap. I had originally set them all the way open. I set them all to about 1mm using a wire that diameter to check. Took it out for a 45 min drive and it shifts real well even warm.

Thanks for suggestions!