Hey all,
I did some searching but couldn't find specifics to my transmission questions. Most of what I found was applicable to auto's. So I dropped out my 5 speed ('83) transmission/TT/clutch to do a little R&R on the rear drive systems. Looking for some advise on a few things.

The transmission shifted well when driven, the only indication of trouble was a little crunchy shifting into 1st and reverse at a stop. The clutch release arm ball cup was disintegrated upon removal, and I am tentatively attributing the crunchiness to the bad cup. This has already been replaced.

The torque tube looks like it has been serviced at some point from the somewhat fresh moly on the splines. Linkage cup on top looks good and so does the rear coupler (has about a mm of play, which Im told is normal). Front cup is gonna get replaced anyways, cuz its plastic and easy to get to. Also gonna put a new boot on the rear coupler.

The transmission is funky dirty from the top down. Not really wet, but a long build up of crud in a diagonal pattern from the front top to the lower rear. To me this says the top plate is seeping. I notice a black sealant was used last to seal this plate, don't know yet if there is also a gasket in there too like there should be. The front top shaft looks clean and so does the little space in front of it, so this tells me there is no leak here. Input shaft (middle, front) looks a tad moist. The car has been sitting in the garage for almost two years and I have not noticed any drops on the floor, not any wetness under the trans, aside from the crud build-up towards the lower rear, which again isn't really too wet, just damp and dirty.

So my observations lead me to believe that I have some seepage from the upper plate and the input shaft. I finished rounding out the filler plug, so I plan on taking off the rear plate to remove the plug on the bench. I've made a list of tasks and parts. Was hoping I could get some advise on what to look for once opened up (aside from obvious chips, burrs, and excessive wear). I don't plan to touch anything inside. Not sure if gaskets go on dry, or if I should also use a sealant.

I wanted to take it over to GregB for this service but I know he's always busy and haven't gotten a response to my inquiry. Not to mention this kind of job (inspect/reseal) can't be very profitable and Im sure he has a million and one bigger fish (sharks) to fry in his shop. Also, Im on a roll with my project and don't want to loose momentum if Greg is backed up on turn around time. Hopefully Im not getting in over my head.

Here's my task list:
- Cover any openings and clean everything top to bottom with brushes and carb cleaner/simple green making sure not to disturb the exposed shaft seals.
- open top plate, clean mating surfaces, install new gasket.
- open rear plate, remove filler plug, clean mating surfaces, install new gasket
- replace 3 plugs (filler and 2 drains)
- Clean contacts on back up switch
- Install with new mounts

I know this isn't the end-all-be-all for this tranny. I don't expect (obviously) to have the reliability of a new or rebuilt tranny. But for the time being, I can live with a little seepage and there were no major red flags when driven last. No metal on the plugs (other than a little metallic powder which I gather is normal). I guess my hope is to get the tranny clean and resealed as much as I can, and maybe think about a new or rebuilt one a few years down the road or whenever this one starts to act up. Is my thinking flawed?

Couple questions:
- What to look for inside, again, not planning on touching anything
- Is there anything attached to the upper and/or rear plates that will fall off or become misaligned upon removal of the plates. Or are they just cover plates with no attachments (hopefully)
- Should I use a sealant along with the gaskets for the upper and rear plates?
- Am I grossly off-base with my thinking and strategy?

Thanks in advance! Happy Friday! Josh

 

Task one is complete. Feels sooo goooood.

I notice the differential-half of the box is more heavily caked-on/oxidized/corroded. Not worried about the asthetics of it, Im happy thats its dry and relatively clean so I can monitor leaks better, but is this because the differential end runs hotter than the tranny side? Still interested in any experiences or advise on my strategy. Pics to sweeten the deal

 

Limited slip jack russell. direct swap

 

I think you would really regret not waiting to get the transmission in to see Greg. Especially considering all of the thorough and awesome work that you've done thus far to catch up that car's maintenance. Why skimp on the tranny as it is like the weakest link of your whole car to begin with?

I hate the early manual transmission with a passion. Give it to Greg to make it better than it ever was before. I know I would if he was nearby.

 

Good advise, thank you. Greg is definitely plan A. DIY is plan B. In the mean time I figured I'd kill some time cleaning parts until I hear from him. I picked up new trans mounts, plugs and gaskets today. I've got some soldering to do (back up light switch ) , some torque tube do-dads, enough to keep me busy for a while. Hopefully He can squeeze it in. Tom at 928intl was cracking me up today, trying to talk me into doing paint prep and finishing work myself (sanding, filling, color sanding, etc.).. I swore I wouldn't, but he was convincing so who knows.? I'm having a good time learning this car and the community behind it. My neck and all my joints are sore but it'll pay off.

 

Yes.. Keep busy, take your time, and ENJOY yourself while working on your car. You may never have it opened up again. You do awesome work.

Let me know however I can assist with paint tips. Not sure the condition of your paint. I don't think I've seen a close shot of the exterior of your car, but you're more than capable if the paint is still within reach of a buffer to make it pop again.

Your car was hand painted with Glasurit 21-line single stage from factory. It was an amazing product. Very durable.

 

Not sure what method you are using to try to get ahold of me, but try GregBBRD@aol.com. I read and answer emails from there 2-3 times a day. I try to read and answer the business emails once every week.....so only use this of you aren't in a hurry.
If you call the shop, you will have to try and get past Mary....who is trying to give me as much peace and quiet as possible, so I can actually get some work done......and she gets tired of still being at work at 9pm.

Good luck with that! You might try "My cars in the driveway burning....what should I do?" That sometimes works.

Anyway, you're doing fine.

I do use a thin layer of Curil on the rear differential gasket. This also works good on the top cover, if the surfaces are rough.

If you want to toss it in the car and have me look inside and tell you what I see, bring it over. Check ahead and make sure I'm there....I'm never there before about 9:30am. Mary only lets me work only 10-12 hours a day.

 

Yeah, thats the email Mary gave me. Maybe it went to your junk mail because its the first email Ive sent you. Last time we talked over PMs. No worries, thanks for offering to check it out Greg. I can bring it by this week, Ill call ahead.