BC

Trying to understand the clutch pieces and part numbers so I can do some shopping and comparing.

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...nd-theory.html

Is there a difference between the "Late" arm and TOB and the "GTS" arm and TOB?

Hilton

Short answer is yes for the arms. The difference IIRC is the contact points (raised bits) where it pivots against the outside edge of the throwout bearing. My memory says the TOB is different too because of that.

I think I have pics of the '89 arm and GTS arm next to each other on my PC at home - I'll have a dig for pics when I get home later tonight. I swapped to GTS versions of TOB, Arm, Guide tube and PP on my 89 because original clutch was very worn and slipping badly driving up hills in 3rd, and it seemed sensible to put in the re-designed versions of those parts.

BC

Thanks mate. I found that other page and it seems like I need to at least replace the arm from it being worn.

Rob Edwards

Sounds like you have a GTS TOB in there, with the plastic insert. It's polyamide, and the 'crack' is intentional. Here's a new one for comparison:

If it's all greasy, someone screwed up, there should be no grease between the guide tube and the polyamide insert.



ID is 32mm, so presumably you have the GTS guide tube as well, whose OD should be 31.8 mm, rather than 33.8, which is the S4 tube.




Is the release arm an -09 arm? That's what you want with the GTS release bearing. Otherwise, if you have an -07 or -08 arm with the GTS bearing, the clutch action will be weird and it'll be a king kong maya maya beyotch to get the clutch pack back up and in with the release arm on the ball.







Relevant TSB:

BC

Oh yeah. There is grease in there alright. There was enough to add up to a chunk of it at the base of the guide tube, like when you really.... Never mind. Lol.

I'll clean everything up and take pics. I had the flywheel surfaced and am contemplating the pressure plate as its 160 to have it disassembled and surfaced and put back together.

An on purpose crack?

worf928

In summary on the clutch: release arm, guide tube, and bearing must all be GTS-spec or all S4-spec. Mixing and matching can lead to shredded metal (there are threads...)

EDIT: Grease. You have to grease the splines on the intermediate shaft. You'll likely get a little grease on the bearing as you install. The world will not end.

BC

Looks like this has all been updated.

We have the 09 arm. It is quite worn. I think I will buy new






I have the tob with the crunchy polymid center



Some issues with the pressure plate, but I will reuse it as it's clearly within its usable life

BC

Very different tob. I must have thrown all this out on the 89s4 I unceremoniously took apart in 2002. I don't remember holding it.

Is it supposed to be a relatively loose bearing?

Rob Edwards

Define 'loose'- axial play, or the ease with which it spins?

BC

Both. Easy to spin, but also a clearance allows it wobble just a bit.

BC

BC

Fixed the video link. Too much movement?

Rob Edwards

My vote would be yes, it's probably why the PP fingers are as worn as they are. Is there wear on the little 'hills' that the arm pivots on, on the TOB itself? That's a lot of wear on the arm.

New -09 arm and new TOB:

BC

Not as much on the tob. I bought a new arm, which should be on its way soon.

The wear on the fingers seems to happen when no one knows to put the grease on there.

The wear on the 09 arm is cocked a bit as well.

BC

I like being right about not driving it until I got into where the mistakes can be from po.
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-forum/887243-crap-wrong-water-pump.html