Rear Pinch Bolts, check 'em.
11-09-2019, 02:01 AM
#91
Rennlist Member
If you've ever had to drill-out one of the stock small-and-shallow head pinch bolts because the last guy didn't replace an almost-rounded-out one, you come to appreciate the 'normal-head-size' 12.9-grade Alan socket bolts that can be 'locally obtained.'
But, yes, 12.9 is the grade of steel. Grade 10 shalt thou not use, neither use thou grade 8. Thou should not browse grade 8 or grade 10 bolts, lest thou immediately thereafter browse from the grade 12.9 bin. Once a grade 12.9 bolt is selected then hand thou the bolt towards thy cashier, who if being not naughty shall charge you for it.
But, yes, 12.9 is the grade of steel. Grade 10 shalt thou not use, neither use thou grade 8. Thou should not browse grade 8 or grade 10 bolts, lest thou immediately thereafter browse from the grade 12.9 bin. Once a grade 12.9 bolt is selected then hand thou the bolt towards thy cashier, who if being not naughty shall charge you for it.
11-09-2019, 11:48 AM
#92
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Do you *know* that a Porsche Pinch Bolt you order from <insert vendor> is not made in China?
The quality of new fasteners from Porsche for both ‘classic’ parts and those found on their newer cars is pretty awful as compared to the OE stuff that shipped on our 928s
PooPoo a locally-acquired grade 12 bolt all you want but check the composition and transparency of your abode too.
11-09-2019, 12:30 PM
#93
Rennlist Member
This is d@mn true.
Do you *know* that a Porsche Pinch Bolt you order from <insert vendor> is not made in China?
The quality of new fasteners from Porsche for both ‘classic’ parts and those found on their newer cars is pretty awful as compared to the OE stuff that shipped on our 928s
PooPoo a locally-acquired grade 12 bolt all you want but check the composition and transparency of your abode too.
Do you *know* that a Porsche Pinch Bolt you order from <insert vendor> is not made in China?
The quality of new fasteners from Porsche for both ‘classic’ parts and those found on their newer cars is pretty awful as compared to the OE stuff that shipped on our 928s
PooPoo a locally-acquired grade 12 bolt all you want but check the composition and transparency of your abode too.
In the oil sector once one departs from recognised suppliers it is quite astonishing what one sees. We had a contractor who took a short cut and did not stick with our approved vendors list. He had some difficulty with some piping components he was welding. We asked for a copy of the material test certs and somewhat astonishingly the recorded yield strength was greater than the UTS! We rejected the entire job lot- cost the contractor a bundle.
02-13-2020, 08:00 PM
#94
Rennlist Member
access for the auto is hidden under the heat shields for the resonators ,
so you can move the heat shields away from the mounted position and get to the rear pinch bolt.
that said if the MMs are good, then you may not have the room to do this as the pipes will be closer to the shields thus requiring to drop out the rear pipes to gain clearance
so you can move the heat shields away from the mounted position and get to the rear pinch bolt.
that said if the MMs are good, then you may not have the room to do this as the pipes will be closer to the shields thus requiring to drop out the rear pipes to gain clearance
02-13-2020, 08:32 PM
#95
Team Owner
turn the crank bolt CW while looking at the front of the engine ,
use a good flashlight to see inside the opening to the rear pinch bolt,
then figure out how much to turn the bolt.
NOTE if you have an issue with a bolt not coming loose,
you can use a 1/2 inch drive air gun to remove the bolt or atleasat loosen it.
If this is done then the bolt will have to be replaced.
use a good flashlight to see inside the opening to the rear pinch bolt,
then figure out how much to turn the bolt.
NOTE if you have an issue with a bolt not coming loose,
you can use a 1/2 inch drive air gun to remove the bolt or atleasat loosen it.
If this is done then the bolt will have to be replaced.
02-13-2020, 09:15 PM
#96
Rennlist Member
turn the crank bolt CW while looking at the front of the engine ,
use a good flashlight to see inside the opening to the rear pinch bolt,
then figure out how much to turn the bolt.
NOTE if you have an issue with a bolt not coming loose,
you can use a 1/2 inch drive air gun to remove the bolt or atleasat loosen it.
If this is done then the bolt will have to be replaced.
use a good flashlight to see inside the opening to the rear pinch bolt,
then figure out how much to turn the bolt.
NOTE if you have an issue with a bolt not coming loose,
you can use a 1/2 inch drive air gun to remove the bolt or atleasat loosen it.
If this is done then the bolt will have to be replaced.
02-13-2020, 10:40 PM
#97
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I'm very glad this thread keeps popping up because it's helping people. It's the single thread that has pissed me off enough to sorta stop posting technical advice here on Rennlist which does no one any good I suppose.
02-14-2020, 01:55 AM
#98
Rennlist Member
Don't stop!
I remembered this thread while doing my clutch. The rear bolts weren't loose, but they sure as hell were not still at factory torque either. Replaced...
I remembered this thread while doing my clutch. The rear bolts weren't loose, but they sure as hell were not still at factory torque either. Replaced...
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02-14-2020, 09:30 AM
#99
Rennlist Member
It helped me. I'm just curious as to why you stop posting such technical advice?
02-14-2020, 02:07 PM
#100
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