JPTL

Although I have Kelley's Timing Belt Manual and Pirtle's step-by-step for doing a complete belt replacement, I just want the step-by-steps for a tension check and tension adjustment for my GT/S4. I'd like the job to go as quickly as possible, so if I don't have to drain and remove the radiator, my cooling fans, all of my plug wires, air pump, alternator.....etc. that would be great.
Is there a step-by-step for just a tension check/adjustment out there?
Greg Nichols says that he recalls there being a timing belt tension check and adjustment step-by-step that came with Kempf's tool. I can't seem to get my hands on that if it exists.

StratfordShark

A step-by-step did come with my Kempf tool.

You only need to remove RHS cover, so no need to drop alternator or remove fan shroud, but you may need to lift shroud a few inches to create space for ratchet to turn crank to TDC.

It can be done with top hose in place but I always found it too much in the way so don't resent draining rad so I can remove it. Drain into bowl then cover so you can pop it back afterwards.

Remove distributor cap to create enough room to pull cover away.

A short 17mm is good for reaching tensioner lock nut through the belts, and then adjusting the tension bolt itself.

I have to do re tension myself in a few hundred miles so I would:

- lift front and remove undertrays (with accessory belts on it can be easier to access tensioner from below)
- drain rad
- remove top hose
- disconnect air pump hose at filter
- lift shroud enough to clear crank bolt (but on cars with separate oil cooler it is very fast and easy to pull shroud)
- remove distributor cap
- remove dipstick tube
- rotate engine to TDC
- use Kempf tool close to where belt exits centre cover
- undo locknut and adjust bolt 1/4 turn at a time (clockwise to raise tension)
- measure tension, rotate engine twice back to TDC, measure
- rinse and repeat till consistent correct reading (near high end of notch)
- tighten locknut
- reverse above

worf928

J.P., I used to have a PDF copy the instructions that Jay sent to me. I can't find it on my computer.

But, on '91s (indeed any 5-speed with the under-rad oil cooler) it is super easy:

- Remove the fan shroud after disconnecting the air pump hose. No need to dislodge the top radiator hose. Just loosen the clamp on the power steering fluid reservoir almost all the way. Once you've got the shroud out, unplug the fan harness and set the shroud out of the way.
- Remove the oil dipstick.
- Disconnect the plug wires at the distributor and turn-out the two Allen bolts for the wire holder.
- Remove the two bolts for the right-side timing belt cover.
- Loosen the cover and begin to withdraw it. At that point remove the coil wire and remove the cover. There is no need to remove the distributor from the belt cover.

When you put the cover back on make sure to loop the coil wire to ensure the maximum possible bend radius. Anything other than a loop will result in a sharp bend of the coil wire which will lead to it breaking internally.

Make sure you don't pinch the engine harness, hall sensor lead, or A/C clutch lead when you put the cover back on.

SS's directions are spot on, except that he removes too much stuff

Edit: And don't forget to check your oil in the belt tensioner. With the shroud out of the way you can get to it from the top. You'll need an oil hand-pump with a section of tubing to connect the pump to the bleed valve. Home Depot: $10.

JPTL

Thanks Adrian and Dave -
I knew it wasn't too big a job.
Spot-on step-by-step is all I can ask for!

Jim Devine

This is a good one- lots of pictures-

http://members.rennlist.com/v1uhoh/checking.htm

linderpat

Any good shortcuts lately for checking tension on an 85/86? I need to do mine before heading to Frenzy, and I'd like to not drain rad or take off too many things.

dr bob

Ed,

I think the S4 procedure above is about as close as you'll get, minus part about taking the right distributor cap off. Else it's cold engine at #1 TDC, right (passenger side on US cars) belt cover removed. Verify tension with tool of choice. Adjust as needed. Refill tensioner with oil WYAIT. I spend less than 15 mins doing it, and that includes a bunch of cleaning, but not the time to find the tool.

Dave Roberts shares the Kempf Tool Instructions on the 928 Specialists website: https://www.928gt.com/pc-35-10-tool-...oner-tool.aspx

linderpat

Thanks Dr Bob. Why would it be necessary to loosen the power steering res bracket? That's on the other side of the engine bay.

davek9

Your correct there is no need to touch the PS res. unless your removing the left belt cover too (edit:.or as noted above to remove the /fan assembly on an S4).
Before adjusting anything, note how the belt is tracking on both the gears, it should be just about a few mm's from the front edge.
It it is right on the edge or towards the back then something in the belts path is failing like a guide pulley or WP and that more important to address ASAP

I think this is a t least a 30min job at best, don't see how it can be done in 15mins, especially if the right side coil is too far aft preventing right side belt cover clearance to remove it

Dave K

Bertrand Daoust

Deleted.

linderpat

The job is a b**tch - the coil is in the way, and for some reason, loosening the coil bracket was a pia. Anyway, did it without emptying the coolant. So long as you loosen the overflow cap and relieve the pressure, the front hoses are pliable and easily moved out of the way to pull the cover (pull out downwards, under the hoses, not up through them). A bigger issue was getting the 27mm socket in with the fan on. A lot more fan blades on my 85 than are on my 78. Anyway, the job took all evening, mostly due to not being able to easily loosen and slide the coil towards the front out of the way. The coil bracket has a 13 mm bolt on top holding it to the firewall, and the same size under it. Easy peasy right? But it also has a phillips screw running horizontally through the bracket, and the head and bottom of the screw interfere with getting a socket or wrench onto either bracket bolt. Accessing the screw is a challenge, even with a short angle phillips head screw driver. Easy if you have the hot post removed, which was the case when I did the timing belt job a couple of months ago. I didn't want to take all of that apart, so I just struggled until I could get that screw out of the way enough to loosen the bracket and move the coil. Everything else went pretty fast.

As to the belt, it is tracking towards the front edge. All rollers and associated hardware are new. When I put the belt on, it was towards the front edge, so it really hasn't moved as far as that goes. Other observations: some of the printing on the belt is smeared now, after about 1700 miles. The "Gates" name is not smeared though. Also, there is belt dust. Not a lot, but it does get everywhere. Not sure how much is road dirt versus belt dust (I daily drive the car). Otherwise, the belt was still in perfect tension using the Kempf tool, and no leaks from the stock tensioner or from the new water pump. I did see that the fan belt for the a/c was wearing away at the a/c compressor wire. It would have eventually worked through it, so it was good to inspect everything and get that wire zip tied out of the way.

dr bob

Coil location must be particular to S3. No problem on my S4. Distributor cap comes off, right belt cover comes off. Turning the crank to tdc is the work.

linderpat

Yes Dr Bob, the S3 is vastly different from either the 16 valve cars (easy, parking lot job to tension) or the S4's, which is what the instructions were written for. The coil should not have been that big of a deal though, but the location of a screw that was not easily accessed and moved caused an inability to get a wrench on the bolts needed to loosen the bracket and move the coil out of the way. As to turning the crank, no issue for me, once I got the socket extension through the fan blades.

PorKen

davek9

Either S4 and or S3 coils, remember these cars were all Hand Assembled, leading to many small differences in assembly, I've see both over the years having personally done way over 40 T-belt jobs.
S ome coil brackets are attached to the body with socket hex heads, not 13mm bolts(seen both), really early '85's are a real mix bag of WTF's, as are the early '87 S4 's and most production change years
I remove the coil and reposition the bracket on the coil on the bench(for the next guy or me) as most of the clamping screws are frozen up so not to strip the Phillips head.
Never drained the rad, but I defiantly agree it is less painful if one does so.

Dave K