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I will post the VIN as soon as I get the car here. I am not worried about it going fast and I would like to keep it all original. if the engine is fine then it should have lots of miles left on it. If it is to much work I'll sell the car. I really don't think anyone will find one that has sat in a garage for 98% of its life. This was my dad's sunday car he drove it maybe 200 or 300 miles a summer. This whole purchase is a pain in the rear, he is getting old and not making good decisions and not being a nice person on top of that is leading to a bunch of... the car is worthless you don't want it, you can't afford it, you do know it takes like 7 quarts of oil it's going to cost you $50 to change the oil... the battery was $100 back in 95.. he is clueless to what things cost today. Honestly he would be happy if he seen it go to the land fill that is the type of person he is.
I look forward to sharing the rebuild experience with you and learning as much as I can.
I am praying if I clean the tank replace all rubber lines it will be fine. If I have to get into the engine or fuel injection stuff I'll most likely sell it.
What is a good place to order the fuel lines, power steering etc?
I wrote a procedure for reawakening a long-term hibernation early car a few years ago.. check post 14 in this thread titled "First start after 15 years parked":
Given how low mileage your car is, you shouldn't have too many issues with stuff like electrics, but stuff like 35 year old rubber fuel and coolant hoses are still suspect as age kills them. Also make sure it turns over by hand first, wally's tip about putting ATF into each cylinder to help free rings is a good one. Its likely the water pump is in a poor state after 10 years of sitting in the same coolant, so once you've got it running, I'd put a new timing belt and pump at the top of the list.
Do not start replacing a bunch of stuff !!! concentrate on simply getting it to start and run. Do the MINIMUM needed to run because each and everything you touch/replace BEFORE it runs might just keep it from running !!! Even pulling out relays can lead you in the wrong direction....
Great posts thank you. I will be going through the list Hilton posted before I try and start it. I am excited to get this car, it is in pristine condition compered to Jmartins restore and i am praying that it will not be a lot of work.
Only a few more weeks and she will be in my possession.
Thank you for all the great tips. I am sure going to do them all before i fire it up.
I am driving out of state to pick up the car 4th of july week and bringing it back home to Ohio that week.
The car was taken out of service because the owner has sat in his recliner for the last 20 years. It is in great shape inside and out. interior has one small tear in the driver seat from getting in and out about 2 inches long. No other cracks or tears anywhere. It was stored in a heated garage under a cover since he bought it from the original owner around 1990 (it was a personal car of the Porsche dealer owner).
Very nice - Looks highly original except for the exhaust. Is the paint original? Its unusual for Guards Red to not have faded/oxidised.. unless its been repainted with a clear coat?
Yes it looks moldy, but mold can be cleaned and killed.
This car is worth enough that IMO you should be talking to restoration shops about getting the interior cleaned up by experienced professionals to make sure you don't use anything which will damage the vinyl surfaces, seat fabric/stitching, or foam inside the seats.
Question for you mechanics, please forgive me if this sounds silly. If I put a bunch of carb cleaner/Gumout/fuel injection cleaner in the tank before it is shipped 700 miles. would the bouncing and sloshing of the fuel help clean the tank and require less work when i get it here? I plan on pulling and draining the tank anyhow. I just thought if I could let the road bumps and gravity help things and save me time???
06-08-2015 | 11:27 PM
