Tested a panic stop, right side locked up.
05-31-2015, 05:19 PM
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Tested a panic stop, right side locked up.
Thought Id run a little..capture it, and do a panic stop.
Right side fully locked up...I did -not- expect that in an ABS car.
I have no warning lights of any sort on the system..??
Right side fully locked up...I did -not- expect that in an ABS car.
I have no warning lights of any sort on the system..??
05-31-2015, 11:31 PM
#3
Rennlist Member
Jeff, if a brake hose has failed internally the ABS system will release the pressure but the failed hose doesn't. Had it happen on my 89. Are the brake hoses original?
06-01-2015, 12:45 AM
#4
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
'Spose I should get a set from Mark down in LA...he's the closest/cheapest shipping option.
06-01-2015, 04:56 PM
#5
Chronic Tool Dropper
Lifetime Rennlist
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Lifetime Rennlist
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Jeff--
The ABS in my car goes through a barely-detectable 'self-test' routine at first brake application, but only if it's been parked overnight or longer. I hear the pump cycle and the pedal drops slightly. This is the 'first forward stop after the garage, so it's low-speed and easy to detect. Does your car do this?
There are some other simple/obvious things to look at. Power for my ABS unit is fed from a dedicated wire between the alternator and a screw in a barrier-strip terminal at the left front corner forward of the power steering reservoir. This connection is lifted for timing belt replacement, and probably deserves the same regular care and cleaning you give to the connections at the jump post terminal and the ground connections.
The ABS pump is very similar to the PSD pump used in 90+ cars, and needs regular flushing. And probably exercise too. There may be a write-up somewqhere that describes the relay connections (onboard the ABS unit and accessible through the LF fender with forward liner removed.
---
In my limited experience, I can't think of a way that brake lines would somehow inhibit ABS function wile still allowing normal pedal braking.
---
The ABS in our cars is a primitive (by current standards) three-channel system that treats the two rear calipers as one, as far as hydraulics go. While ABS goes a long way towards balancing braking in emergency situations, it's no substitute for balanced braking. Considering the car's history in a corrosion-free corner of Florida, it still might be prudent to do a full inspection and possible caliper refurbish on the car just to be sure. I'm sure there are already-rebuilt ATE calipers from several sources, usually for less than the cost of parts and the aggravation/risk factors involved. If they don't already look great and move freely on their own that is.
The ABS in my car goes through a barely-detectable 'self-test' routine at first brake application, but only if it's been parked overnight or longer. I hear the pump cycle and the pedal drops slightly. This is the 'first forward stop after the garage, so it's low-speed and easy to detect. Does your car do this?
There are some other simple/obvious things to look at. Power for my ABS unit is fed from a dedicated wire between the alternator and a screw in a barrier-strip terminal at the left front corner forward of the power steering reservoir. This connection is lifted for timing belt replacement, and probably deserves the same regular care and cleaning you give to the connections at the jump post terminal and the ground connections.
The ABS pump is very similar to the PSD pump used in 90+ cars, and needs regular flushing. And probably exercise too. There may be a write-up somewqhere that describes the relay connections (onboard the ABS unit and accessible through the LF fender with forward liner removed.
---
In my limited experience, I can't think of a way that brake lines would somehow inhibit ABS function wile still allowing normal pedal braking.
---
The ABS in our cars is a primitive (by current standards) three-channel system that treats the two rear calipers as one, as far as hydraulics go. While ABS goes a long way towards balancing braking in emergency situations, it's no substitute for balanced braking. Considering the car's history in a corrosion-free corner of Florida, it still might be prudent to do a full inspection and possible caliper refurbish on the car just to be sure. I'm sure there are already-rebuilt ATE calipers from several sources, usually for less than the cost of parts and the aggravation/risk factors involved. If they don't already look great and move freely on their own that is.
06-01-2015, 05:03 PM
#6
Rennlist Member
try it a few times.... mine has done this occasionally,when really hot at the track. but i get the ABS light going on , and i can feel it locking up. if i dont hear and feel the early warning vibration, i know somethings up. i go back and forth from using the ABS to disconnecting it entirely, so i have a good feel for it. sounds like you have an internal ABS pump issue that might need to be worked out. did you do the test again to see if it was engaging? another test , is to floor the car in 3rd gear and apply the brakes too (with great pressure) this will work the ABS pump as cycles longer than just a high speed stop would. make sure you have LOTS of clear hyway to be safe. front and behind.
06-01-2015, 05:05 PM
#7
Official Bay Area Patriot
Fuse 24 Assassin
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Fuse 24 Assassin
Rennlist Member
Does the Anti-lock light illuminate with the ignition turned on? If not, you may not only need a bulb, but some abs sensor harness repair.
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06-01-2015, 05:48 PM
#9
Rennlist Member
ive never felt anything on start up. try a few more tests. better yet, jack up the car in the rear, put stands under the car! and do some 4th gear WOT, braking to test abs engagement. this will get the pump singing and you might have had some air in the system.... if its a bad connection back in the rear juction, that will show as a problem, but the light should come on. it might be an anomoly so further testing might be good