Herman K

I drove the car last night to run some errands got back in it for the drive home and it cranked but didn't want to start after I swopped out the LH it cranked but again didn't start.

I left it overnight and when I tried it again this morning it did start, drove it back to my shop and after I shut it of the same situation again - crank but no start - I attached the "Hammer" and it reports an EZK error coming from the throttle switch (see picture attached).

I'm going to check the basics next:
Fuel pressure at the rail and spark at the plugs.

I'll share more findings when I have them and I'm open to suggestions if you have had any similar experiences.



I started this morning with the objective to zero in on the single reason that caused the problem after I read all the replies my plan of action was based on doing the simplest things first.

1. So I checked the (2) positive leads coming from the battery (see picture they were fine)
2. I repeated the "Hammer test" as per my orginal post which gave the same results
3. Next I was going to check my fuel relay # 26 and installed my relay by-pass with remote switch (see picture)
4. In order to get relay #26 out I had to remove the EZK and inserted my by=pass relay
5. I reconnected the same EZK and with the remote switch activating the by-pass relay she fired right up
6. So again -RELAY-RELAY-RELAY
7. With the issue resolved I repeated the "Hammer test" and this time the # EZK came up negative

so I checked the (2) separate leads on the battery (see picture - they looked fine)

So I like to thanks all that did respond and offered their input.

The by-pass relay/with manual switch and pull cord so I can pull it out when done with without having to use any tools to pry it out (long leads so I can go behind the car and listen to the fuel pump).

I normally keep this in my car on long distance trips and did not have it with me when the car didn't want to start besides that the one handicap that is there is that the EZK unit has to removed first.

Anyway all is well thanks again and perhaps this post may benefit others some time down the road.

Happy 928 motoring ones again to all of you.

FredR

Herman,

You need to resolve why you are getting that warning- check the idle contact circuit from the LH plug for incorrect contact operation and signs of false grounding to help determine why you got that advisory on the hammer..

When you try to start in this condition try to ease the throttle open a bit to see if it picks up. Also take a look at the battery voltage whilst you are cranking. If my battery is a bit low on charge I find it is reluctant to start and in this condition I crank it a second or two, stop and try again then it seems to fire quite easily. If the battery is fully charged it fires immediately first crank.

Regards

Fred

John Speake

That fault code won't stop the car from starting, the problem is elsewhere. It's behaving almost as if it is flooding each time it stands after a cold start followed by a run.

How far did you drive before parking ?

Mrmerlin

Hi Herman, first question what was the last thing you fixed?
I would pull the vacuum lines from the dampers and the FPR smell them for fuel.
How long since a intake refresh was done?
How old is the MAF,
Have the computers ever been replaced,
Did you ever swap out the running relays?
has the CE panel had a recent application of deoxit?
Has the fuel pump fuse ever been replaced?

the flyin' scotsman

Hman.........Id swap some relays around especially fuel pump, LH and EZK. If theyre old or unknown age replace them all...........cheap.

After the above and no change Id start tshooting basics starting with what Stan said.........what did you touch last.

Good luck........shall follow with much interest

Herman K

I eased the throttle a little and cranked it the battery condition appears to be no less than normal and turn over is brisk.

I drove about 4-5 miles between 2-3 stops. I have encountered the same issue over the past 3-5 month and always had it resolved by changing relays or disconnecting the ground for a short period of time. This time it only started this morning after I drove it to my shop and turned it of it has not restarted. Will get more time tomorrow to check on it. car has always been a reliable starter until now.

Yes every 2 years I exchange the in tank pump and check out the external one on the bench

As I have owned the car well over 10 years I'm confident that I'll find the issue I decided to share this issue and call on you guys input as I'm sure your comments will short cut the time to find what is wrong.

So thanks to all of you for your effort. I'll keep reporting here until it's resolved and perhaps the findings may be of benefit to the community.

John Speake

Check the two smaller positive leads on the battery ?

Herman K

1. Check the two positive leads IIRC the same leads stranded my MB one time
2. Swap out the EZK
3. Pull spark plug and check for spark
4. Place fuel pressure test gauge on the PS rail and check

My main objective is to do one step at the time and try to start as I really like to pin down the single reason of why it happened in the first place as it in the shop I can take the time to do so versus being somewhere by the roadside.

SeanR

Fuel pump running while cranking?

That error most likely is due to a busted connector boot and frayed wires.

WallyP

If you have one, an inductive pick-up timing light is the quickest and easiest way to check for spark.

If you can get a helper, check for injection. Turn ignition on, listen for clicking from the injectors, which would indicate a failed LH ECU. If that is OK, listen for clicking with the engine spinning on the starter. A piece of tubing would help to hear the sound over the starter noise. No clicking indicates bad relay, bad connection at the battery, bad crank sensor (which would also kill the spark), etc.

Kneel at the rear bumper and listen for the fuel pump whine while the engine is spinning on the starter.

While you are there, sniff the exhaust with the engine spinning - raw fuel odor means no ignition.

Pull the carpeted cover on the right kick-panel and see if there are any lights on the ignition protection relay.

Herman K

I did open the relay the points are clean, bench tested it and it worked fine so I took my magic brushes and cleaned the slots for the fuel relay, EZK and LH relay.

Car now starts faster (less cranking required)

So in the near future I'll get to clean all CE panel relay slots (connections) for a session of preventive maintenance.

the flyin' scotsman

thats gr8 Hman.

I have an intermittent issue with the GTS radio...........sometimes it doesnt power up, remove and reinstall the fuse it works. Perhaps a lesson that a full deoxit of the fuse/relay panel followed by a replacement of all common relays and all fuses (they are cheap) is the way to guarantee another 20 plus years of troublefree driving

FredR

Hermann,

Good stuff- did you clear the fault code in the process? Edit- now spotted the update on the original post.

By magic brushes are you talking about the Deoxit approach? I need to get some of that stuff and do the same I suspect although looking through Amazon there appears to be quite a variety of products, sizes, methods of application etc etc.

Regards

Fred

Herman K

Fred

The brushes I use to get into the flat slots of the relay's to clean them (normally used to clean between teeth)are sold in the US by Walmart (see picture) I make a paste/gel of baking flower and white vinegar this will clean any copper or brass (as used in the marine industry to clean any salt corrosion on brass and copper on vessels) after that I use the brushes to deposit a coating of Corrosion X into the slots.

Best H

Herman K

I did open the relay there was nothing wrong with the problem was in the female slots of the CE panel ones I cleaned them all was fine.

H