depami

Very nice looking car!

Got any interior shots?

Manuel928S4

Oh I forgot to mention, I started thinking that if I made my own marks and the crank hasn't moved, then i just had to finish the job and nothing bad would happen as long as i didn't move the crank. So I put the new belt but I guess i will have to remove it to replace the gears. does anyone has a link with instructions on how to replace the gears?
Thanks a lot and sorry if my English is not perfect ( its my second language)

Manuel928S4

Thanks! this is the only pic I have of the interior, but I will be replacing the leather on the front seats (they are in very poor condition) and the dash has some small cracks, but that's pretty normal in PR where there is always sun and hot weather. And just bought a Momo Millenium steering wheel. The rest is in pretty good condition for an almost 30 year old car.

FredR

Manuel,

Your English is probably better than at least half of the comedians on this list!

You can find details of the 32VR and bumpstick kits at:
www.liftbars.com.

Ken has the manuals for these pieces of kit available on his website.

The 928, great car that it is, does not like being sat idle and suffers from such. Sad to say there are quite a number of parts that degrade with age and more so with heat- ask me how I know!

That you know about and are well into tackling "the big one" is a credit to you.

A great resource for you will be Dwayne's "How to do it" photo essays. They are very well written and have step by step photo's.
http://www.dwaynesgarage.norcal928.org/
His article on the timing belt/water pump job is definitive- if you have not found this already do so immediately and digest it before doing anything further. For starters it would have ensured you did not get the wrong stroke! That you were locked at 45 degrees suggests you had access to some info. By the way you can easily tell when you are at TDC on No 1 cylinder- the rotor arm pick up contact points to the 3 O'clock position on both cams.

If you do not have access to such already you would do well to have a tool to check the timing belt tension. This should be checked with the engine at TDC on No1 cylinder and would be needed for sure if you refit the stock tensioner. If you fit the PKTensioner [made by the same clever chappie who makes the 32VR kit] you do not need the tool for setting the tension as that sets itself automatically when you pull the plunger locking pin.

There are plenty of things to look for/check on your car. Focus on getting it running safely in the first instance. Check that the cooling hoses are nice and pliable. if they have sat for 10 years chances are they are toast. Rubber likes to be worked- keeps the molecular chain structure pliable- leave them static for too long they do not like it and crack.

The other "must do" item before you even contemplate starting the car is the fuel lines. The rubber goes hard and brittle. If those things let go chances are you will be able to say "you once owned a 928"- engine bay fires can and do kill these cars. The areas to look are the front crossover between the fuel rails, the U shaped delivery line from the passenger side of the engine bay that leads to the front fuel damper, the U-Connector at the back of the inlet manifold, the bridging piece to the fuel cooler on the firewall and also the lines from/to the fuel tank at the back of the car- they are less prone to failure but age/prudence etc.

You should also ensure your tires have not age hardened. They may look OK tread wise but if they are more than 4 years old you would do well to change the before you start running the car. Where I am tires are shot by the time they have seen 3 summer seasons- the heat cracks them. Your location will not be as harsh as where I am but if they have sat for 10 years then just bin them and start from scratch.

The other thing you need to konw is that the 87 and later automatics have a serious "achilles heel" [vulnerability] in that the stock flexplate clamp has tendency to slip. if this happens the damage is catastrophic and leads to total engine failure. The trick is to make sure the clamp does not slip. Research this on the list and form your own conclusions.

Make sure you use a good quality coolant on the rebuild. If you can get the radiator cleaned whilst it is out even better. Change the thermostat and sealing ring before boxing back up. You do not have cold winters where you are so if you have concerns about cooling you can run with a leaner coolant mix [70/30 water glycol]. If you choose to do so also use a bottle of Redline water wetter. This helps improve cooling and also contains a good anti corrosion chemical package good for two years.

From the safety angle you should also change the brake fluid. Again brake systems do not like being sat for long periods of time.

Cover the safety/integrity items first then we can get onto the inevitable performance related issues in due course- they are needed but not so critical as the above. I dare say there are other safety/integrity issues to check for/eliminate - others can chime in.

Rgds

Fred

StratfordShark

I just changed gears on mine, but used the 32vR tool which is invaluable for this. I also leant heavily on advice from the experts here. What seems daunting in prospect turns out simple if you go carefully, and follow instructions from wise people here who have done it many times.

Transfer any markings you made on the old gears to the new before you remove old gears.

Make marks on cam backing plate (1-4 side) by drawing circles through the 3 holes in old gear. Makes it easy to position new gear in same position. There is no plate on 5-8 side, so use the slots/rotor bolts as reference marks. Take photos and or measure so you can position new gear as close as you can to how old gear sat.

To remove old gears counterhold the 30mm hex washer, undo cam bolt with 17mm socket.

Install new gears counterholding with 30mm, torque 17mm to 65Nm using torque wrench.

The gear slots allow leeway of couple of teeth. You will be close using reference marks described, but to be accurate you must use the 32vR tool. Read the online instructions first to get idea for how you use it.

With a new belt, you want to set the timing to 0 on both banks. In thousand miles or so the belt will stretch and you need to re tension. At that point you can recheck timing. It should be close to 0 on 5-8, and -2 (2 degrees retarded) on 1-4. You can use the tool to set precisely to this timing.

Adrian

docmirror

PK32Vr is a custom tool for setting the timing of the cams without having to remove the cam covers on each side and using a dial indicator on the lifter. You can buy it here: http://928srus.com/ along with the cam gears. Roger specializes in international shipping also, which makes owning a 928 outside the US a bit easier.

I think your cam gears can still go a bit longer although the plating is worn through. It would be best to replace them now since you are in the middle of the job. To replace, take off the timing belt, counter-hold the 27mm large nut-plate behind the 17mm bolt with a wrench, loosen the 17mm bolt and remove it, then slide the gear off the nose of the cam. If the gear is frozen to the cam you may need some penetrating oil. If the gear still won't come off the cam, you can heat the hub of the gear slightly, but do not heat the nose of the camshaft. Use the PK32Vr and the instructions to install the new gears on the cam hub flange so that it is properly timed to the crankshaft.

Manuel928S4

Hello,

I want to thank all of you who posted help and advice and wanted to give a little update on the status of the car. I finished the TB & WP job and, using the Pk32vr, aligned the cam gears; changed the radiator (leaking motor oil cooler).
I had already changed tires, brake fluid and lines, and all the fluids. Next thing I will be doing is instal one of the clamps for fixing the flexplate issue, changing brake rotors and pads, and changing fuel lines.

Which of flexplate clamp systems do you recommend?(SuperClamp, PKlamp, or Reitech clamp, Is there any other?)

Thanks,
Manuel

FredR

The Superclamp is a superior mechanical solution.

The PKlamp and Ritech units are cheaper and easier to install.

I am still using the cheapest [$6] solution- Loctite 290 but some [not unreasonably] believe it has some disadvantages- not that I have found such in 16 years of 928 ownership on two 928's.

There is [or was] another solution offered by Theo Jenniskens in Holland- not sure on the status of that one but I am sure you can google him and his clamp.

Rgds

Fred