HELP - messed up clutch removal
#31
Rennlist Member
That pilot bearing looks pretty nasty. Very cheap and now is the time to replace before it fails. Can be done as it sits, nothing else needs to be removed.
I used a jack to hoist it back into place until I could pop the release arm on the ball to hold it.
I used a jack to hoist it back into place until I could pop the release arm on the ball to hold it.
#32
Thanks I just ordered one to repace the nasty one
#35
Rennlist Member
I used the DIY tool (bolt and nut with a 5MM Allen wrench) in one of those threads and it worked great. I did not pull the flywheel so used an extension with a hex head socket placed inside one of the flywheel bolts as the stop.
#36
Administrator - "Tyson"
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
I was rather shocked how easy it was to removed that way.
For the installation, toss the new one in the freezer the second it arrives at your door.
#37
Thanks for the bearing puller tip. Will pull it tomorrow.
I guess my biggest concern is the assembly of the PP, intermediate plate and flywheel. I did not mark them before disassembly...pretty stupid.
All parts have drill holes, so they must have been balanced. I guess that their orientation does not matter as long as they have been ballanced individually - but is it common practice to balance the parts individually of as s pack?
They have no markings.
I know that the new discs have to be installed with markings 180 to each other.
Thanks again,
Christian
I guess my biggest concern is the assembly of the PP, intermediate plate and flywheel. I did not mark them before disassembly...pretty stupid.
All parts have drill holes, so they must have been balanced. I guess that their orientation does not matter as long as they have been ballanced individually - but is it common practice to balance the parts individually of as s pack?
They have no markings.
I know that the new discs have to be installed with markings 180 to each other.
Thanks again,
Christian
#38
Rennlist Member
the pilot brg puller described above works great.
For lining the parts up does the PP not have locating pins? the newer PP has 3 pins one somewhat larger that the other two so it can only go on one way.
For lining the parts up does the PP not have locating pins? the newer PP has 3 pins one somewhat larger that the other two so it can only go on one way.
#39
Early cars have no pins
One more thing. Will I have to drain the oil before replacing the main seal? The car is in a pretty steep angle as only the front is lifted.
On my old 911 it was not an issue since there is rarely oil in a removed 911 engine
One more thing. Will I have to drain the oil before replacing the main seal? The car is in a pretty steep angle as only the front is lifted.
On my old 911 it was not an issue since there is rarely oil in a removed 911 engine
#40
Rennlist Member
if your referring to the rear main seal I just replaced mine and did not have to drain the oil.........the car was on a lift so it was level though.
#42
Former Vendor
#44
I have actially found some very weak markings Dave. Will post a pic when daylight is back. I have to send you something Danish for wll the help when this is done. A blond college girl in a green bikini!?
I have to say that I find a 928 much harder to work on than a 911/912.
I have to say that I find a 928 much harder to work on than a 911/912.
#45
Rennlist Member
I found that reinstall goes better with someone helping front the top. I threaded a tie down through the release arm hole so the guy up top handled all the weight, while I worked on alignment from underneath. I also had a 3/8" piece of plywood on my chest in case something went wrong.