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Car runs fine, just getting around to replacing the fuel pump and filter today. So I pulled the relay and fuse, relay still looks new, I think I replaced it last year. Occasionaly the fuel pump would get loud during longer drives, so that's why I am replacing it. Any ideas for the hot fuse?. Fuse block is ok. '85 A/T.
Resistance. Clean the contacts for the fuse and then find the ground for the pump and ensure it's clean. Pump getting louder as it was getting hotter most likely is the issue though.
It was arcing at the fuse blade..not current heat..but arcing heat.
I got another CE, because that and a few other things were the best choice, but that socket was loose, and now full of arced carbon..etc. Clean it, but..it'll arc more later..it's loose.
Got the fuel pump and filter hooked up, cleaned the fuse contacts, put in a New relay, New fuse did seem a little loose on insertion. After a few seconds of cranking it fired right up, will address the fuse terminal.
Thanks.
Don't forget the in-tank fuel strainer. If it hasn't been replaced, it could have broken and crud chunks get into the fuel pump (it is before the fuel filter). A pump trying to digest gunk can be overstressed and lock-up. It is part number 928-201-081-04.
Don't forget the in-tank fuel strainer. If it hasn't been replaced, it could have broken and crud chunks get into the fuel pump (it is before the fuel filter). A pump trying to digest gunk can be overstressed and lock-up. It is part number 928-201-081-04.
Current flow thru resistance makes heat (SEE: "light bulb").
A little resistance between the fuse blades and the fuse block connectors makes a little heat.
A little heat makes a little corrosion, which makes more resistance, which makes more heat, which makes more corrosion, which makes more resistance, which makes more heat....
You can buy replacement contacts that fit in the CE panel. Shop at the VW parts counter with your old as sample. There's a special crimp tool that's used for those, don't fool with standard 'murican crimp tools.
The contact is beryllium copper so it's springy. Heat from current through corrosion/resistance anneals the copper, lessening the clamping on the fuse blade. So more heat, more annealing, ad mausoleum (until it's dead...). The terminals are retained by little tabs on the front closed side. You can use a small painter's spatula (1/8" wide) to reach in next to the installed terminal, displace the locking tab slightly, then pull the terminal out the back. Carefully prep the wires for the terminals before crimping, so the electrical joint is supported by the rear clamps around the insulation.
05-03-2015, 06:48 PM
Fuel Pump fuse #42 meltdown
