radar detectors....where to buy?
04-09-2015, 11:10 PM
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
radar detectors....where to buy?
my dear wife went to buy me a radar detector as a bday present and found price increases due to the exchange rates we have with the US $.
Any recommendations as to where we can get preferred pricing?
need a detector after all the work Im doing to the GTS (928 content)
Any recommendations as to where we can get preferred pricing?
need a detector after all the work Im doing to the GTS (928 content)
04-09-2015, 11:18 PM
#2
Rennlist Member
Malcolm, if you're interested in a Valentine 1 (I highly recommend them), you can contact them directly and get a decent discount (10-20%?) on a "refurbished" unit. Carries full warranty and they told me a lot of them are just returns from customers who were "testing" them but didn't want it for various reasons and returned it.
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04-10-2015, 12:10 AM
#9
Valentine 1 and WAZE on your phone is greatness.
04-10-2015, 12:15 AM
#10
Rennlist Member
Get a radar jammer. They are only illegal in 3 US states. What's their legal status in Canada?
Aside from them, the Valentine 1 is the way to go, even though they can be too sensitive sometimes, they work really well.
Aside from them, the Valentine 1 is the way to go, even though they can be too sensitive sometimes, they work really well.
04-10-2015, 12:24 AM
#11
Rennlist Member
Have they actually updated the V1? The ads have been the same for over ten years, I sort of assumed technology had passed them by.
04-10-2015, 03:27 AM
#12
Drifting
Jammer--Active Electronic Counter Measures. OK What do you want to do? Spoof the radar, or "blind" it?
A spoof ECM needs 2 settings for each band , (X K Ka EtC) and type (doppler or time/pulse) of radar you want to fool. City=24.7 mph, Highway=54.6 mph. To spoof, you need to know what frequency reads out at the desired speed for each radar set. They each have different frequency ranges within the assigned band width so THEY don't jam each other. That's the "finesse" way. Do-able but complicated.
Blinding the 'Enemy' radar is the brute force method. "You come up against a TicketMasterVXR1000 radar (Max Rf output 10W). Your RadarSchrek-K10 detects and records the 'Enemy' radar long before you come into detection range, And starts running the captured signal through a series of Super Hetero-Dyeing Linear Amps. At the proper distance your RadarSchrek K10 fires the captured signal 'right down the throat' of the TicketMaster's receiver ( Max Rf Power load-200mW) on just the right frequency at 10K Watts!. The TicketMaster overloads and all the smoke comes out." Audio Saturation is called 'feed back' , Rf saturation can melt things, especially when you hit the receiver with an Order of Magnitude overload. The problem with this method is that it IS BRUTE FORCE. Size may be a problem. I could maybe build something like that into my "Great White Whale", but there's no room in my Shark. The other problem is shielding. Rf won't make you glow in the dark, like hard radiation. It just cooks you from the inside out. So you want it mounted OUTSIDE the vehicle, and you want the vehicle to be RF opaque at the Hz range you are using, so you don't cook yourself as well as the 'Enemy' radar.
"Inside each can of worms is another can with even bigger worms"https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/evilgrin.gif
A spoof ECM needs 2 settings for each band , (X K Ka EtC) and type (doppler or time/pulse) of radar you want to fool. City=24.7 mph, Highway=54.6 mph. To spoof, you need to know what frequency reads out at the desired speed for each radar set. They each have different frequency ranges within the assigned band width so THEY don't jam each other. That's the "finesse" way. Do-able but complicated.
Blinding the 'Enemy' radar is the brute force method. "You come up against a TicketMasterVXR1000 radar (Max Rf output 10W). Your RadarSchrek-K10 detects and records the 'Enemy' radar long before you come into detection range, And starts running the captured signal through a series of Super Hetero-Dyeing Linear Amps. At the proper distance your RadarSchrek K10 fires the captured signal 'right down the throat' of the TicketMaster's receiver ( Max Rf Power load-200mW) on just the right frequency at 10K Watts!. The TicketMaster overloads and all the smoke comes out." Audio Saturation is called 'feed back' , Rf saturation can melt things, especially when you hit the receiver with an Order of Magnitude overload. The problem with this method is that it IS BRUTE FORCE. Size may be a problem. I could maybe build something like that into my "Great White Whale", but there's no room in my Shark. The other problem is shielding. Rf won't make you glow in the dark, like hard radiation. It just cooks you from the inside out. So you want it mounted OUTSIDE the vehicle, and you want the vehicle to be RF opaque at the Hz range you are using, so you don't cook yourself as well as the 'Enemy' radar.
"Inside each can of worms is another can with even bigger worms"https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/evilgrin.gif
04-10-2015, 03:07 PM
#14
04-10-2015, 03:11 PM
#15
Rennlist Member
My problem with Waze is it will not shut up. I couldn't get it to alert me to the stuff I care about, without alerting me to a bunch of BS as well. I do sometimes use it still when coming home from being out and about and wishing to avoid any sort of legal entanglements :-)