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85 Timing Belt / WP - Here Goes Nothin

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Old 03-16-2015, 02:03 AM
  #61  
zekgb
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This is where I ended the day - Water Pump installed dry and all bolts coated with anti-seize and torqued to 10nm. Also replaced the cam plugs, re-installed the rear cover and lower idler - only casualty of the day was a lost cap head bolt in that awkward spot for the driver's side rear cover. It's taken a lot longer than I thought it would, but I can definitely see the finish line from here.


Old 03-16-2015, 09:49 AM
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while the coolant system is apart ,
did you replace the thermostat and its most important rear seal?
Old 03-16-2015, 09:58 AM
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zekgb
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Originally Posted by Mrmerlin
while the coolant system is apart , did you replace the thermostat and its most important rear seal?
No I didn't I thought I would do this as part of the upcoming intake refresh. I haven't yet decided what I'm going to do with regard to painting or powder coating various intake parts.

Assuming this happens within the next couple of months Is there any advantage to doing it now instead of then?
Old 03-16-2015, 10:07 AM
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When that damn seal pops off and inevitably falls down the coolant passage towards the pump, it would be easier to retrieve it :-) Alternatively, you can stuff a sock into that passage before prying off the seal, but i wasn't that smart.
Old 03-16-2015, 12:59 PM
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Decide if your intake refresh is going to include the water bridge, and let that guide when you'll go after the thermostat and seals. I'm of the opinion that the water bridge can stay in place, as finishing/painting/coating the pretty pressure-cast part doesn't buy you anything. So doing the thermostat now would make sense. Plus access to the bottom thermostat housing bolt is a lot easier with the front of the engine so open now.
Old 03-16-2015, 01:18 PM
  #66  
zekgb
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OK, after reading about how badly that seal ages I'm convinced, ordering the parts today....
Old 03-16-2015, 02:28 PM
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The seal has a metal ring encased in the rubber. I at first thought I had no seal, because all the rubber was gone...but that will definitely cause the car to run hot.
Old 03-16-2015, 10:27 PM
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Originally Posted by zekgb
How does this look?



ok is it just a casting flaw or is there a stress crack on the block above the bolt hole?
Old 03-17-2015, 08:28 AM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by linderpat
ok is it just a casting flaw or is there a stress crack on the block above the bolt hole?
Ed, it looks like it's raised so I don't think it's a stress crack and for him I hope it's not !
Old 03-17-2015, 12:46 PM
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zekgb
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It's definitely a casting defect
Old 03-17-2015, 06:39 PM
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Kevin: When do you think you will be stringing the T belt and need to do the cam timing?
Old 03-18-2015, 11:54 PM
  #72  
zekgb
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Originally Posted by Bill Ball
Kevin: When do you think you will be stringing the T belt and need to do the cam timing?
Last batch of WIAIT parts coming tomorrow, should be ready to get the belt strung on Friday.
Old 03-21-2015, 02:34 PM
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Thermostat, o-ring and rear seal all replaced and today was supposed to be button up day, but when I went to start re-assembling the tensioner I see that the idler boss on the water pump is too small for the roller. Is this the wrong pump or is there a bushing that I'm missing?






Old 03-21-2015, 04:05 PM
  #74  
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Kevin,
Correct pump and if you remember we did not supply the idler pulley because at the time it was not available. Porsche superseded the part number and raised the price to $164 and it is still not yet available today. I recommended that you remove the original bearing and check it for wear and possibly reuse. Worst case I gave you the bearing numbers to just change out the bearing.
Best,
Roger
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Old 03-21-2015, 04:11 PM
  #75  
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I think there should be a bushing....




Check the old pump or roller


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