TB retensioning
#1
Banned
Thread Starter
TB retensioning
I am retentioning the TB on my 82 after WP change about 500 miles ago.
I am just a little surprised on how much I had to adjust the tensioner to get it back in the middle of the range.
On install, I used the Kempf tool, used locktite on the lock nut and set it per the WSM. 0TDC with cam gears on the marks.
This is my first TB, so I would guess the belt would stretch a bit from new.
I had to turn the tensioner about 3 turns to get it back in the middle of Kempf tool range.
The belt looks great and rides in the middle of the newly installed NOS steel cam gears.
I am assuming the slack is normal before I button everything back up?
Thanks!
I am just a little surprised on how much I had to adjust the tensioner to get it back in the middle of the range.
On install, I used the Kempf tool, used locktite on the lock nut and set it per the WSM. 0TDC with cam gears on the marks.
This is my first TB, so I would guess the belt would stretch a bit from new.
I had to turn the tensioner about 3 turns to get it back in the middle of Kempf tool range.
The belt looks great and rides in the middle of the newly installed NOS steel cam gears.
I am assuming the slack is normal before I button everything back up?
Thanks!
#2
Rennlist Member
IIRC the adjust should be done at 1,500 miles unless the Belt warning light is coming on, however your 82 doesn't have the light
With that said, the Engine should be cold and the Crank set at 0 TDC when doing the adjustment, as belts just like chains have a tight spot.
As for the noticed slack in just 500 miles, how many times you rotated the engine when you did the new belt and re-checked and then there is belt stretch.
I usually see the belt on 32V's riding closer to the front edge of the Cam Gears, not in the middle, 16V may be different. I'm sure someone will verify the 16V.
Dave
With that said, the Engine should be cold and the Crank set at 0 TDC when doing the adjustment, as belts just like chains have a tight spot.
As for the noticed slack in just 500 miles, how many times you rotated the engine when you did the new belt and re-checked and then there is belt stretch.
I usually see the belt on 32V's riding closer to the front edge of the Cam Gears, not in the middle, 16V may be different. I'm sure someone will verify the 16V.
Dave
#3
Team Owner
on the early cars using the Kemph tool to set belt tension,
you want the pointer to be at the lower end of the window.
NOTE the 4 cams go to the high side of the window.
Setting the tension higher on the early cars may be cause to snap the left cam snout.
NOTE follow the info already posted as for the engine position when setting the tension.
NOTE if the tensioner was taken apart and all of the washers were taken out,
then installed.
It is a good idea to work the stack in a vice to reseat the washers,
What this means is to put the washers with the piston in a vice and compress them so they get back into a compressed working state.
OTHERWISE you may find that the tensioner has lost some tension after a few heat cycles
you want the pointer to be at the lower end of the window.
NOTE the 4 cams go to the high side of the window.
Setting the tension higher on the early cars may be cause to snap the left cam snout.
NOTE follow the info already posted as for the engine position when setting the tension.
NOTE if the tensioner was taken apart and all of the washers were taken out,
then installed.
It is a good idea to work the stack in a vice to reseat the washers,
What this means is to put the washers with the piston in a vice and compress them so they get back into a compressed working state.
OTHERWISE you may find that the tensioner has lost some tension after a few heat cycles
#4
Banned
Thread Starter
The mileage might have been a little more than 500 miles.
I had the car on jacks to change a lower radiator hose and I thought I would check the tension.
I adjusted it into the middle of the slot. Took about 2.5 turns on the tensioner bolt.
Before tightening the Kempf tool showed just out of the range to the loose side. So maybe it wasn't that bad to begin with.
I used red locktite this time to make sure the lock nut doesn't back off.
I wil check it again in a 1000 miles or so.
Thanks!
I had the car on jacks to change a lower radiator hose and I thought I would check the tension.
I adjusted it into the middle of the slot. Took about 2.5 turns on the tensioner bolt.
Before tightening the Kempf tool showed just out of the range to the loose side. So maybe it wasn't that bad to begin with.
I used red locktite this time to make sure the lock nut doesn't back off.
I wil check it again in a 1000 miles or so.
Thanks!
#7
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If it was from 928sRus it would be a German made Dayco, not that there is much if any choice these days. Most have stopped making them.
Dayco is the current OEM to Porsche but Continental do still make them.
Dayco is the current OEM to Porsche but Continental do still make them.
__________________
Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission? George Layton March 2014
928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission? George Layton March 2014
928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
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#8
Rennlist Member
If you are tightening the lock nut correctly against the adjuster nut, you should not have to use locktight. That is not part of the process - locktight is not specified for this application, and with red locktight, you could have an issue later trying to loosen it up.
#9
Banned
Thread Starter
I guess it is a Dayco then. My receipt just had the #, I cross referenced the # off 928 Int and their belt said Continental made.
Yes I tightened the lock nut correctly. I used 2 drops of red locktite on the backside of the nut.
It had locktite on the nut when I removed the belt for the WP change, no problems loosening it up.
Yes I tightened the lock nut correctly. I used 2 drops of red locktite on the backside of the nut.
It had locktite on the nut when I removed the belt for the WP change, no problems loosening it up.
#10
Rennlist Member
I guess it is a Dayco then. My receipt just had the #, I cross referenced the # off 928 Int and their belt said Continental made.
Yes I tightened the lock nut correctly. I used 2 drops of red locktite on the backside of the nut.
It had locktite on the nut when I removed the belt for the WP change, no problems loosening it up.
Yes I tightened the lock nut correctly. I used 2 drops of red locktite on the backside of the nut.
It had locktite on the nut when I removed the belt for the WP change, no problems loosening it up.
#11
Team Owner
dont forget that the bolt has blue loctite applied where it sits in the threads of the tensioner
#12
Burning Brakes
It had locktite on the nut when I removed the belt for the WP change, no problems loosening it up.
#13
Banned
Thread Starter
I wiped off the locktite before it dried. It was behind the nut, not on the threads inside the nut.
I put a wrench on the nut and it can move. Not the end of the world.
I put a wrench on the nut and it can move. Not the end of the world.
#14
Rennlist Member
I am retentioning the TB on my 82 after WP change about 500 miles ago.
I am just a little surprised on how much I had to adjust the tensioner to get it back in the middle of the range.
On install, I used the Kempf tool, used locktite on the lock nut and set it per the WSM. 0TDC with cam gears on the marks.
This is my first TB, so I would guess the belt would stretch a bit from new.
I had to turn the tensioner about 3 turns to get it back in the middle of Kempf tool range.
The belt looks great and rides in the middle of the newly installed NOS steel cam gears.
I am assuming the slack is normal before I button everything back up?
Thanks!
I am just a little surprised on how much I had to adjust the tensioner to get it back in the middle of the range.
On install, I used the Kempf tool, used locktite on the lock nut and set it per the WSM. 0TDC with cam gears on the marks.
This is my first TB, so I would guess the belt would stretch a bit from new.
I had to turn the tensioner about 3 turns to get it back in the middle of Kempf tool range.
The belt looks great and rides in the middle of the newly installed NOS steel cam gears.
I am assuming the slack is normal before I button everything back up?
Thanks!
the 82 is the square belt which throws off the calibration of the porsche tool... I forgot how its different with the kepf tool, but i think because the belt thickness is so diffeent, using the porsche tool or kempf tool should be examined closely.
I posted a results of my findings with the petty engine. i think it was set at the min value on the kempf tool, to equal mid range of the porsche tool. something like that. i also suspect the reasons that so many belts break and wear down the cam pulleys is that they over tensioned.